flyingbrick

Good question. I believe some do BUT I would like to think/ assume that this doesn't as it's supposed to be a special mix just for bushes. I compared it to some plain nylon at work and it's quite different feeling Nylon vs poly seems to be a popular topic these days with many people for and against each Worst case I have some spare joints for my panhard/watts link now

After a ton of reading it actually seems like maybe this newer nylon stuff is actually better in many applications.. its silent for one! " The benefit of nylon over urethane is that urethane binds. The squeaking you hear is binding and releasing. This happens because urethane is a pretty crappy bearing material. It simply isn't designed for it. Nylon is a much better bearing material to improve on it you can then go to spherical bearings, bronze or roller bearings. Binding in twisting suspension components is obviously a bad thing but a little bit of binding is better than the massive deflection capable in some OEM rubber bushings and with a routine greasing schedule you can reduce the problem so urethane is an upgrade in that sense. Where urethane excels is in non twisting positions like shock bushings, bump stops, isolation pads or subframe bushings and if you are willing to put up with the harshness motor mounts. If you are going all out then any twisting bushing (sway bar, control arm bushings and the like) should be nylon, bronze, spherical or some of the other choices."

Thanks for the input mate. Not 4 link but am copying this style of suspension (used on many cars from factory and an aftermarket upgrade on mustangs etc.. easy to setup and good all round setup...plus a bit different which I like.) Am using my front leaf spring mounts as the side arm mounts, should work well according to the internet The front of the torque arm will be designed so that there isn't a spherical being loaded in (what I think is) the wrong direction. Did consider sphericals but was worried about them wearing out..people make it sound like you have to change them after every drive haha.

Thanks sentra. I have had a reply back from speedway motors which basically says they will remedy one issue but not help with the nylon vs poly bush issue. I have provided all proof that their staff provided incorrect information 2 months ago so hopefully they will come to the party.. Its nearly $200 worth of bushed ends and it doesnt look that easy to find poly replacement inserts.. (i havent looked that hard though...but why should i) With that said, @cletus have you seen any issue with nylon bushed ends? It appears to be some sort of special nylon which is made specifically for bushes and i now notice that places like magoos etc sell these same nylon bushes for use on 4 bar setups so they must be okay and i must be overreacting? Nylon is just not known as being a supple material haha. Mostly worried that the small amount of articulation my diff has will loosen my lock nuts and pivot at the bar ends. PS, im not doing a 4 link setup- just using that as an example as very similar.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Forged-Stainless-4-Bar-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Thread-Polished,226096.html?OriginalQuery=91008038 Got left and right of these. Listed as 4 bar ends.. See in the questions they reply to me and say they are poly...but when I look up the replacement bushes for these they are nylon. Strangely enough they have told me that their nylon and poly bushes are not interchangeable as bore of joint is different. Anyway.. I have written to them a polite but annoyed email as they made a few errors in my order (like one joint completely the wrong size in the wrong opened packaging)

How hard are the poly bushes? I spent a lot of time finding the right rod ends for my Ute- ordered them using the shops own staff for guidance however I'm positive these bushes are too hard for my application.. very fuckin hard- can hardly push a fingernail in... Not what I was expecting tbh and I wonder if they are actually nylon rather than poly- their website isn't clear and I feel their staff may be guessing.

Wow not sure why I haven't stayed up to date with this- damn you are good at this rust repair stuff. Where did you get those neat magnets from?

Bolted in the new pedal assembly with some rivnuts through firewall. It had to be mounted far higher than expected so I need to either make a new gas pedal arm or use a longer pad. No biggie and I deserve the bother for poor planning haha. But aside from that I'm happy as..it will work well.

Wow that's an awesome idea! I like it

Yeah that haha.

Hey man. Still need to get a few gauges for it.. to be perfectly honest I can't remember what I decided to do about the indicator lamps.. I think I will use the plastic flat led things, mask off the symbols with professional cut vinyl and spray black then clear (like I did the switches) I ended up not being happy with those stainless bolt ones.

Sheet metal is poo, got some spuds and chromoly tube then Tig welded the start of some rear arms/links. Waiting on bushed rod ends to arrive from America. I'm so paranoid that I actually emailed a meturoligist (is that the word?) To ensure I was using the correct process for chromoly.

propeller

I have always thought these were a good looking bike! Don't be too harsh on your riding gears damage! sounds like it did its job pretty well (eg you didnt mention losing skin ) glad ur ok

First bit of floor in! Damn photo makes it look much less complex and note flat than it actually js

This is the most racecar looking piece I have ever made.. When the car was last together (quite some time ago now) the throttle pedal feel was terrible. I tried different cables and spring rates etc but always felt like it should have been better..maybe I'm just used to more modern things....I dunno. So the goal here was to reduce the cable length significantly- the snake will now come through the firewall and start directly behind the carb rather than above the gas pedal. I was going to use an aluminium or stainless tube but then found a carbon tube cheap on AE. I bought bearings from AE too- the housings are self aligning and they are CHEAP. Next I measured up the factory gas pedal assembly, copied it's basic geometry, made some quick drawings and had these cut. And bent the pedal pad Then this morning I took some aluminium And made these ends up in aluminium. they have lots of drilled and tapped holes for mounting the arms. And here it is together with the ends pressed in. It looks totally badass and is pretty cool to hold and play with as it's SOOOOO light and rigid....a shame it will never be seen haha. The pad will be welded on when it's bolted into car and I know that angles etc are right.

I have met a bunch of those guys and went for a job interview there (failed)- a genuinely GREAT bunch of people and even the owner is such a nice bloke- I was extremely surprised to actually be interviewed by him and basically sat there the whole time thinking about how hes the smartest person I'm ever likely to meet and IM NOT WORTHY etc. SOOO good to see that they have made this milestone as they all really really deserve it.

I highly recommend you download the video series on rebuilding rotas. I got it years back just for curiosities sake and thought it was extremely well made. Pretty sure you should pay for it but there are other ways

7" wide wheels have no place on that car

The latest optrel helmet has (I forget what they call it) automatic shade variation based on arc brightness. My current helmet senses some voodoo and doesn't even need a visible arc to darken...hold handpiece in the air Infront of helmet..click the HF start button and the helmet will darken..

Shade definitely makes a huge difference especially when you are (example) under a vehicle and there is fuck all light. The Optrel Vegaview goes down to something like a 2.5 shade and is supposed to be a delight to use (but $$) You definitely want multiple sensors above and below the screen- especially on cheaper helmets (more expensive ones have other ways of sensing the arc and can make do with less) External switches are GREAT- you will discover this as soon as you need to get ur hand up in there to flick into grind mode)

I could be mistaken but I understood split point to simply be an alternative (and often easier, imo) style of sharpening where you grind in a series of flat spots rather than a single curved face Dunno if that makes sense Edit. I just Read the article linked above- that's an information overload lol.

You would need to have a diet devoid of nuts as these could jam any valves.

You don't have to be a good welder Just a good grinder

Looks great man!