KKtrips

Sure - flick me the keys. 1 x Australian tune-up inbound.

Links Fixed

I saw a stock height and sitting on modgies (I think) version of this car yesterday morning heading towards the Eastern suburbs. Please don't tell me it was you.

Problem with POR15 etc is unless the surface is properly keyed then it can peel off in big strips. It does not stick well to flat metal very well. Plus to paint a truck chassis would cost a few hundred with the price of POR15 at $120 odd a litre.

PPG GMH Flat Black. 599-48355 I understand this is the paint they put on the underside of all the factory cars.

Now bring it to Wagnats and top'n'tail with Spiro.

Notchy is bad. That pic is what you see on a worn out UJ. I don't know if it will fix your problem but its worth replacing for sure.

/more dish on the wheels. (I think its in the works just waiting for a narrowed beam?)

These ones

I have a set of 16" 5x108 steelies I could sell ya... 16x7" Mondeo rims that have had the offset changed to around +10ish (I have not measured though)

In my opinion, get an MSD one - they are really really good quality. Something I would take out of any car I was selling if I ever thought I was getting something with the same motor again,

Just really bad build quality. The two I have personally had experience with. One had the hole in the trigger ring ovalised for some reason so it was literally just jammed onto the distributor shaft at a 10-20 degree angle and it caused issues with timing being all over the show. The other one had a really notchy advance weight mechanism. The former was unfixable without new parts which I was told couldn't be supplied so I got a refund and the latter was fixable with probably a couple hours of filing and deburring and tidying it up but I thought 2 bad ones = fuck that. So sent it back for a refund too.

Get a Mallory then. Cheapest of the best.

Pro-comp dizzys? They are absolute pieces of shit and I have seen them cause numerous issues with smooth running. But if you are putting them into your burnout machine then it will be mostly WOT only and I would say the problem will be negligible in that case.

Jack up car. Remove back wheel. Fit new wheel. Start in 4th gear. Get different grades of polish with many many rags. Begin!

Will be there - was delicious last time.

Hi Niki

Do this

Jags have factory play in those outer hubs. A reasonable amount too. Very difficult to diagnose squeaks online. But they are bad for flogging out all manner of bushes often. Heavy car prone to oil leaks is not a great recipe for bush preservation.

I have no leakdown tester sorry. A spark can look like a fucking tazer in open air but it can be shithouse in a combustion chamber if the condensor is a bit poos or the point surface is a bit gummed up. (if the points have been sitting around as long as the car then I say replace them to eliminate that as a cause - have you tried locally, maybe a motorbike shop to match up electrical bits?) Also I can set the engine to TDC with a screwdriver and the head still on. So don't worry about that.

My checklist for starting an unknown motor Compression = easy enough to check, (check your valve clearances with a feeler gauge too) Fuel = ether in a can is a suitable substitute for an unknown shithouse carby, Timing = just a bit of knowledge to set that up. Spark = witchcraft. (but a knowledge of how it works is important) I always try and take the witchcraft out of it. So if it was me I would grab a set of points, a condensor and new plugs. If you can find a cap and rotor too then it would be even better. Put them in with a bit of a dab hand and then spin it over with some ether down it's guts and it should fire up. The compression is low but if it is not spinning over very fast then that could explain the low compression. (checking valve clearances with a set of feeler blades will tell you if you have a problem with an open valve etc) Could give a hand one night to set up the witchcraft side if you like.

Cool - I'm totally down with buying an adapter for the EP but it mystifies me why the EP comes with 2 sets of holes if you are going to need an adapter anyway. All the adapters I have seen adapt the bolt pattern so having them on the carb is pointless?. (sound like a rookie as comment but this is the first time I have needed to run an adapter as I have always had matched carb and manifold types) Only thing I can think of is some unusual adapter that requires a very long set of studs running right through the carb and adapter as one piece.

TEE YOU YOU YOU YOU EFF EFF with no hubcaps. Do it to the front and take a new photo then come back. (also run semi slicks or something for max FUCK yeah points) Then we'll do a $26 referendum because at the end of the day most New Zealanders want something that looks good. Thanks John Key Thonkey

Cheers for that. Quick question you may know the answer to. Why does it have 2 mounting holes per corner of the carb. I presumed one is for square bore and one for spread bore but all the guff I am reading tonight indicates I'll need an adapter to run this carb (cos it has a squarebore mounting) on a spreadbore manifold.

What kind of strange things?