VKzac

Long time no see, or should I say long time no more see? I had been meaning to update, but now this..... I'll keep the news shit and short.... This morning I walked out to head to work, looked up and the Commodore was gone...Yes, you read it right, STOLEN When: Stolen this morning (1/12/15) between the hours of 10pm on the 30th and 5:50 on the 1st Where: Dannemora/ Botany area (East Auckland) Details: Rego - LZ8035 KM'S at the time: 21400xx Distinguishing factors: Tail lights are miss-matched (ones pinstripe, ones not), recently put a big fuck-off alloy radiator in and look hectic VL turbo in disguise. I had only JUST got it back after 6 or so weeks of filming (was being used in a movie and a tv series) so is looking very standard, absolutely extremely fucked off. It's hard to miss, I would really appreciate it if everyone whom reads this could please keep an eye out for it .

Such an amazing build, I hope I get to see it in the flesh one day!

Shifter surround looks mint! Now for myself to track one down....

Id be keen to take the VK along to a shoot! Could chuck it back on the OG wheel + hub caps to look legit! Pretty sure Green TC Is keen too

Hello to all, it's been a while haha Pictureless update/ Problematic update: So my EST light came on whilst driving home from uni, Is idling like a fucking dog, but when driving you don't notice it. I've hear some horrific stories regarding EST (refer to K-trips weed story lol) and does sound bad in comparison to some. To all those that aren't aware, the VK Commodores came out with EST (Electronic spark timing), and basically when some of that shit goes wrong an EST light comes on around the dash, now I myself don't 100% understand how it works compared to the HEI system (Points vs High Energy Ignition). So anyway, I thought I try provide some information in the hope someone can help me out (Head over to the discussion thread lad& lasses). So basically the EST replaces the timing function of the distributor, in which it has several sensor units including; an engine speed sensor, coolant temperature sensor, inlet manifold vacuum sensor, throttle position switch and a starter motor sensor. After receiving information from the various sensors it also makes allowances in the ignition timing in which fall into one of the following categories: 1) "Normal Operation - Under normal operating conditions above 900rpm, the control module advances the ignition timing to provide maximum power, fuel economy and low exhaust emissions" 2) "Cranking operation- at cranking speed the ignition timing is 6 deg BTDC" 3) "Idle- at engine speed between 400-900 rpm with the throttle position switched closed, ignition timing is 6 deg BTDC. If the engine is cold or additional load is placed on the engine, the control module advances the timing to increase idle speed." 4) Overspeed- When engine speed exceeds 5800 rpm, the control module limits spark advance to 20 deg BTDC to prevent engine damage" 5) "Deceleration- When decelerating the throttle position switch is in the closed position with the engine speed exceeding 900 rpm. The control module senses that the engine is under deceleration and adjusts the ignition timing to reduce exhaust emissions." 6) "Limp operation - of the control module detects a fault in the system a warning light appears on the dash and the limp operation is activated. Ignition timing is at 6 deg. BTDC an does not advance" So yeah I'm in 'Limp operation', bit of a shag up. I Have been told you can change out the distributor to a VH one but don't know the full extent as to the benefits other than no EST. I will check all the sensors to try and resolve it, but in the long run I'm guessing it best to ditch it ? Fuck I write way too much yarns.

This is absolutely outstanding work mate! Looking forward to seeing the end product !

Yea 5lbs is probably more realistic. 8Hp sounds like a lot for a change of fan set up! But I guess there's less rotational inertia with the electric fan, along with a little bit less stress on the engine? Anyway, electric looks way better in the engine bay (bae) so hopefully ill do the swap sometime in the near future!

Hey mate, Sorry for my lack of activity on here. That sounds awesome! I would love to have ability to rev the old 202 out nicer! Also the lower rpms at 100 sounds mint compared to my 2900ish at 100. Have had a little bit of an investigation regarding how much lighter the starfire flywheel is, I saw somewhere someone said approximately 7lbs lighter than the Blue/ Black one. Not 100% on how right that figure is though

Bake the shit out of it, get the wof and worry about it later Not like we both haven't done it before

Looking awesome!!! 10/10 agree with you on removing steering column, I left it in when I removed my pedal box out of the starfire at Zebra.... such mares. I still can't get over the fact that you scored the gearbox and clutch etc for $50, not even the warehouse can give you bargains like that! And the fan is looking mint!, I just bought a new alloy one as mine is leaking, have yet to put it in though, very keep on going thermo fan. What are the specs/ set up regarding yours?

I like to try and keep up with 1JZ'S and Tractor spec SR20DET'S, I need moar gears

Sounds about right, a lot of coin though. Yeah I mean it's not that anyone will really notice/ care, Im sure you'll do it legit and safe and not some hack job anyways. Still don't know what I'm going to do yet though.....

Just as I thought, no point putting in the factory box then. And if you go for certification should just do all the upgrades at once (brakes etc ) too. What does the average certifier charge ? have heard a lot of different prices before...

Hey mate, Yeah I've read your thread and I must say you've done an awesome job! Also followed it on the tard for awhile too. Please go in depth when you install the electric fan as I'm quite keen do it also! In regards to the Cert, I talked to the cert man at the CRC speed show about it and talked about the contradicting statements in the certification documents, and he said they're about to amend it sometime later this year. So I'm not quite sure what I am going to do yet, if I have to cert it, I would definitely just go with the toyota box for the reasons being that it's said to be much much stronger with better ratios and what not. But as I have said, as Im not sure with the whole cert thing so im just waiting till I know what I really should do. Interesting note with the starfire flywheel too! Might look into it a bit more... As above, the cert lad reckons when I change the pedal box Im altering the braking system... Don't know how that works? HTC shitty phone life mate haha, go for it Its not the wof man id be worried about, it's not the cops id be worried about, it's the insurance id be worried about. I've got a VY booster and master cylinder on the old girl too, VTNZ didn't pick it up, and id never expect them too either.

I shall try and attend