cletus

And grab a xf diff cover and chop the watts linkage pin off, that is a poor man's pick a part combo to try and make a valiant diff more resistant to making bang tinkle crunch noises haha

Good chance it is 25 spline. I used to look for xd-xf ute or panel van diffs to get 25 spline lsd centers to put into valiants, utes often had 3.23 ratios, sedans if they were lsd were usually 2.77 which had a different offset ring gear mount surface which didn't work for any other ratio

XD sedans were leaf springs, XE XF sedan was 4 link, all utes and wagons were leafs though

Vespa. Have fitted some tyres that will be mildly better in dirt& gravel, already got a cargo rack and bag sorted, and have got a fuel can that fits in the space between my feet.

Hey Con, I remember this from the mopar forum, you still have your gasser ve as well?

Yuck to not so yuck, sugar soap and a water blast . And dungeon spec interior

It has some shitty surface rust along the front edge of the roof and a lot of rusty stone chips on the roof, that was the main reason for painting it to stop all that getting bad The rest is not too bad but every panel has some small issue so want to tidy it all up

Gah I hate painting cars Got the inside done, remembered how much I despise sanding and bogging and sanding and paint fumes and the paint not drying cause it's too cold and getting paint boogers So I'm going to send it to someone else to get the outside done white again .

My employer has a hot rod that is bare steel, has been for a few years now. It lives inside most of the time, he has to rub it down with scotch brite and puts stuff called keyphos on it, he probably does that a couple of times a year. It sometimes gets surface rust when you touch it from sweat, or if it gets driven in the rain All the bits that you can't get to are painted so the seams don't rust

Matthew Black. Because its cheap, requires less prep and I can do it myself. I had ideas of painting it some sort of military green or tan but that would require a different set of wheels to go with it . Matt black I think the wheels still work, could get them vapour blasted to a matt finish as well

Prep for paint on van commenced Whoever the panelbeater is that did this repair needs a dickpunch.

Jack it up so the wheels are just clear of the ground, get a lever of some sort Put your finger in the gap between the strut top bearing and the housing Wiggle the wheel up and down with the lever. If the bearing has play you will feel it Put your finger on the shaft where it goes into the body and do the same thing, that will tell you if its play in the shaft Check the jam nut on the shock is tight as, that's a common place for play

Usually no problem if it's just a single skin radiator support panel.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/introduction/inspection-and-certification-process/identifying-the-vehicle-class I guess if you could make it meet the requirements to be NA class then that would be possible

Could you use a rubber mount that already has a locking system? Another way could be to make a 'hook' that catches the engine mount bracket

It looks a bit rugged but I've had the go ahead from lvvta a couple of times for the same mod when I've asked One of the faqs on the website says it can't be done but that was from a long time ago

Public service announcement RUC price goes up 1st July. Stock up now!

He didn't earn his forum title for nothing...

Vl still had drum on some, vn was all disc from memory

Was there a reason why you didn't get a two fiddy big block one?

Sometimes it's a piece of cake to get details changed Other times it can be a major , I've got someone who I certed a car for, it had one extra letter in the chassis tag that wasn't on landata When he tried to get it changed it turned into a big drama as someone had removed the tag at some point to paint the engine bay and it turned into a big 'is this the right car for the tag' problem It's been ongoing for nearly a year now

Its Toyota, they are metric race cams. .750 race

If it's open you could use one of these- replaces the spider gears and pretty cheap https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-hardbody-lock-right-locker-by-powertrax-1986-1997-h233b-31spline-p-3653.html

Should be a tag somewhere (under the seat or on one of the pillars maybe?) with an axle code on it That might help?

6 or 8?