cletus

Just turn it around so the wear is on the other side. Good for another 500,000kms m8

I did the same thing setting up an external gate and when it was put back on the car, it made a lot less boost than bench testing suggested I had not accounted for exhaust pressure pushing on the valve trying to open the gate

Good day to you Peter I briefly thought about it, but it means a lot more work/ rework of things I've already done or purchased, and changes the look of the engine bay quite a lot which I'm not keen on If my plan works, I think it should be quite straight forward and easy to achieve, and still look factory in the engine bay Bilstein shocks with circlip grooves for the lower spring platform Already have springs and upper adjusters in stock Lower arm will need a bush housing machining up, tig it in, will replace Chrysler bush and pin setup with a long bolt , probably use a leaf spring shackle bush setup Strengthening the shock mount I think a curved bar welded to the chassis and shock brace should be good enough I went down a tangent of mounting the turbo at the back again which would have its pluses and minuses but I think this path is easier and potentially a better result

I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount

With the engine and trans in I started to look at what I was going to do for an exhaust I can choose 2 of the following 3 items Rh torsion bar Oil filter An exhaust that actually flows So I think the best option is to put coil springs in it and get rid of the torsion bars. I knocked up a dummy coilover using parts I had kicking around. I'll go see autolign this week and see if they can make a bilstein shock with a circlip adjustable lower platform and I can use the threaded one at the top. If this plan works I'll need to modify the lower arm inner pivot bush and strengthen the shock mount to cope with the weight

Return too small/blocked/ regulator not regulating correctly and making the pump work hard ? Have you got a pressure gauge on it?

A typical coilover with a foam type bump stop can compress quite a lot so you could include 10-20mm of bump stop compression IMO Depends on suspension though and the application so by no means is that set in stone and a different certifier might have a different opinion Also IMO, keeper springs to fix droop issues is a bit of a band aid 'box tick' fix as the whole idea of a minimum amount of droop was to make sure the spring rate was ok for a road car

40mm bump 40mm droop from ride height. Depending on the car and suspension and bumpstop type, can include some bumpstop compression in that figure

That rsr page has some opinions on the vdo and tilton pumps One of the main reasons I went away from the rear mount idea was the fact you have to rely on an electric pump to keep you going, which would be difficult to get a replacement quickly to get you going again. Which is probably a bit dumb as a fuel pump is the same thing really Those burnsco ones are pretty cheap I guess you could keep one as a backup in the truck if you were worried about it

Is that from the Subarus that have the turbo mounted down under the engine?

Some good info here https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

I started looking at pumps and stuff when I was thinking of doing a rear mount turbo. I did a cert for a guy who did low mount turbos on a commodore and he had to run the pump on a timer otherwise if the pump stopped when the ignition was turned off, there was enough oil hanging around to leak past seals etc, and it would get oil all through the piping . Apparently the fix is to run a little sump (he couldn't due to everything being so low) that the scavenge pump can suck out of, so that any remaining oil can drain into the sump. I was thinking of using a small bottom sump section either bolted to another one, or make a flat lid on one As for a scavenge pump, there's cheap chinese ones but they dont handle the heat and constant running very well and the good ones were kinda pricey. I think www.theturboforums.com had some info on pumps Like the steel part in this pic. A trans pan might also work?

I like your work. Making good progress Aliexpress has a range of silicone joiners which are reasonably priced and the quality seems ok, havnt put any pressure in them yet though Have you got enough 'downhill' from the turbo for it to drain into the sump? Especially if you end up on a big uphill incline

The Santa of Sharns

Pg hydraulics in east tamaki. Not cheap but top quality work

What did he say when you caught him? Any chance of getting $ out of him?

Probably worth trying that first, otherwise you may just end up with a bunch of scratches to try and polish out

You can, but it has to be sealed off from the passenger compartment Have seen a few cars with fuel surge tanks and pumps mounted in the spare wheel well and a sealed lid over the well Its probably easier to mount it under the car if you can though

Are you trying to stop the tyre rubbing the inner guard?

It says 124cc on the side so that's what it must be. Tortron would never operate outside the law I'm sure.

It feels quite odd being in a car with coloured tints. Like wearing these

I cant think of any rules that say you have to have a park feature on a transmission

The only time you have to have locating rings is if you are fitting wheel spacers Otherwise as long as something centers the wheel you'll be fine. That includes tapered wheel nuts or shank nuts

I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the bw diff in my vg has survived All I've ever had to do was replace an axle with a twisted spline and it's done a million burnouts and a lot of drag racing. I pulled it apart once to check it and it was fine 25 spline axles, 2.92 ratio, 4 spider lsd with some extra preload

I'll measure it tomorrow, but the tunnel is offset in a valiant and it looks like it all lines up ok