cletus

There is an exemption for diesels with turbos fitted if you meet the requirements of the lvvta info sheet 07-2016 From memory can only be exempted if its mechanically injected and uses a OE turbo off a factory turbo version

Good idea to change the rear hose. Those particular ones with the textured outer were original equipment on a lot of cars in the 70s and 80s and they can be quite deteriorated without showing any signs of perishing on the outside like a 'normal' hose

I did some searching to find what brand of spindles they are as there is only a couple of casting numbers on them, no brand name. The only pics I could find where the castings appeared to be the same manufacturer had a minor issue

I assume pulsed as theres an electrical plug with enough wires for 8 injectors I was googling stuff about them and someone mentioned 'poppet injectors ' so I'm picking theres a electric injector in the main block which lets fuel down the tube and the injector at the end makes some fuel jizz out when it gets to x amount of pressure?

Yeah that's the one. oddball thing that wasn't made for very long- 96 to 98 as far as I know The body is a bit different as well, 3 door which was only made for 97 and 98 Injectors

Was unable to resist , was a good price. Boss sold it to me, it's a 98 so last of this shape, quite high miles but in the last 80k it has had a rebuilt trans and a new crate tree fiddy Needs a little bit of work but came with most of the parts to do so, and needs paint tidying up I'm not actually sure if I'll keep it or not, the only things that put me off are the size of it and how much pertol it will use. Apparently this engine is a bit better than the earlier TBI engines, economy wise Is considerably more comfortable than the van. If I keep it , it will be getting a reduction in ride height, it handily came with a set of drop spindles in the parts pile

I had a yarn to a guy who tuned a lot of LS powered commodores a few years ago, he said some of the rich running especially when cold was to do with emissions ie when you start when cold, the timing is retarded and the mixture is quite rich to get the cats warmed up as quickly as possible Also tuning to run lean causes increases in other emissions (NOx) which isn't great for the environment and a normal catalytic converter cant get rid of it

I might have a th shift lever spare, I'll have a look on the weekend

Battery I purchased last weekend A question for purveyors of car parts Does that sticker mean its past it's best by date? @GuyWithAviators

Yeah it's the mods that go with a wide body that make it need cert, cut guards, increased track width, big wheels, adapters, stuff like that

Dunno, only ones I've been involved with have been removal due to putting aftermarket seats in, or fitting late model seats in old cars where you leave it disconnected Might be easier to fit the heat pads into your seat?

You might want to talk to your certifier, but I would accept a photo with a ruler next to it, might help if you take a pic of the plates before you fit them to show the rounded edges as well

Ok couple of things. 1. As Kyteler mentioned, the rack doesnt look straight, the angle on the rack end is greater on the passenger side, need to make sure it is level/same both sides 2. Make sure the tie rod ends are the same, and are tight in the steering arms so the pivot points are the same height/ distance from the steering arm on both sides 3. Have you swapped the spindles around to make it front steer? One issue with that is depending on the geometry of the original suspension, that can stuff up the Ackerman angles and give it "anti Ackerman " which causes scrubbing on tight turns. I dunno what the rules for engineering are in Australia but you might want to talk to your engineer about that. I cant tell from the pics if that's going to be a problem or not but something to keep in mind. You can check it with your bump steer bars by making sure it toes out, at full lock. Or have you fitted the later model spindles? 4. If after all that you check it again and the tie rod ends are still too high, the good thing is that's the easiest problem to sort as you might be able to find a tie rod end that has a different height pivot, or convert to a spherical bearing/heim joint/rose joint with the appropriate length spacer, or you might be able to move the lower inner arm pivot point by re drilling the hole for the lower arm bolt

Have you got a pic of the front end, and of the hub/steering arm/tie rod end?

Looking at your pics in your build thread it may be easier to move the rack a bit. You will be surprised at how little you need to move stuff to make a big difference, rack might only need to go up 10mm *edit* as adoom said

I would say fit a latch on both sides. What did the wagon version have from factory?

Havnt done many with LS engines in but from memory none had a body lift

Pretty easy to do with even something as basic as 2 bits of square tube or angle iron clamped to the discs Doesnt have to be fancy, just consistent I've never done 2 sides independently so cant comment on how well that works, but if the rack is level and centered correctly it wouldn't be necessary to do individual sides separately IMO The good thing about doing it as per the lvv info sheet is it gives you an idea of which way you need to move things if you have a problem

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2010_Bump-steer_Measurement_Background_Information.pdf https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf

Bolted more stuff back on

As far as cert goes , if you can mount to the original anchorages in the floor that makes things easier. As far as which ones to use, I'd use the mazda runners if you can because they will be nicer than escort ones

Yes! If I had some time and skills and materials to send you stuff to test it would be interesting to see results of things like SU on a log manifold to see how much power it would lose Or see how much power it could make with something outside the box like a 650 holley

Looks good! What size wheels and tyres did you end up with?

Nah just a stopper you can adjust on the throttle pedal

Good work!