cletus

usually getting stuff changed on the plate isnt just ring up and get the plate re printed, would need re certing to change wheel size travel= hard to know without actually seeing/driving the car, sometimes you can get away with a bit less if you include compression of the bumpstop as well, or if it has stiff springs and shocks etc...there are a lot of variables, and a different certifier may have a different opinion on whats too stiff etc

travel and droop depends on how the car drives, spring/shock rate etc....general rule of thumb 40 mm bump travel and similar droop......there is no set must-have-x-amount, often you can have less droop than bump travel driveshaft- if you have used all stock parts then no you wont need one they are only required when the stock engine has had a substantial increase in power or if a larger/more powerful engine is fitted, or if the driveshaft is modified. minimum tyre size for a 9'' rim is 235, the only way around this is written signed evidence from a tyre supplier or manufacturer that the tyre size is suitable for the rim size. there isnt really any room for a certifier to say" oh nah itll be sweet", they either dont know about the rule or are prepared to lie when filling out the checksheet.

Any cert questions, ask away and ill do my best to help. im a LVV certifier in auckland, my name is Clint.

vacuum modulator not hooked up/not working? trans may think engine is at WOT and not shift into top until high rpm

sounds dodgy id be pulling it apart and checking clearances properly, it might turn over now but will probably give trouble when its running plastigage is a cheap form of insurance

i had one exactly like this, same colour....probly 10 years ago. i remember trying some 17s on it back then and it didnt look right, it doesnt suit the shape of the body. needs slammage and wide 13s,14s or 15s IMO. looks like a good start for a project removing the badge from the middle of the grille makes it look 73% better too

www.minisport.com www.minispeed.co.uk www.minispares-online.co.uk mini world magazine has a lot of ads for wheels in it

fuck that i wouldnt put wheels designed to potter around a golf course at 25kph on my car no matter how cheap they are

i wouldnt do that, theres probably a lot of load on that part of the caliper stopping the two`fingers` from bending up under loading. Plus im pretty sure they are cast alloy not iron?

falcon b/w lsd are cone type rather than clutches if that makes any difference.

pale gamer nerds who think they are clever cause they found some spelling mistakes. good on you for organising something positive.

http://lvvta.org.nz/stdSeatAnchorage.pdf go down to 2.9 this has requirements for the mounting plates. www.lvvta.org.nz has most of the rules certifiers follow, available at the top of the first page under `documents`

"about 112Kw" is quite precise also that much power out of an old nail of an engine for $730 sounds too good to be true. i smell bullshit. be careful you dont get ripped

helpful for you? widened elderly datsun wheels. http://forums.minitruckin.co.nz/viewtop ... =18&t=2966 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 060273.htm

So if a positive ground car bumped into a negative ground car, would there be dzzzztttd when the bumpers touched??

the mitsi can probably get away with a bigger port because the fuel is squirted directly at the valve from the injector rather than having to get dragged out of a holley and make its way down the manifold and port. the older engine needs velocity to keep the fuel atomised properly

205/70/14 balloons. you could work it out by measuring how much gap you have now between the spring plate and the ground, minus how high the traction bar is. also check how the spring sits, if the front spring eye is lower than the spring plate then the front of the traction bar will be even closer to hitting the ground. you might be better off with a link bar off the top of the diff housing to the inside of the chassis rail, gt falcons had that, possibly some escorts or capris as well. or a 2 inch block and reset springs.

i had some of those bars on a car with 2 inch blocks once, they were a pain in the asshole due to being too low/got stuck on speedbumps etc. so with 75mm blocks would be worse, depending on what size tyre you are using

pg hydraulics in east tamaki. not cheap but do a proper job.

4 link or leafs.....ladder bars/2 link is a waste of time in a road car. turns the rear axle into a giant swing arm, the only side to side movement it has is the flex in the bushes.

i busted 7 in my mark twice cortina and 2 in my esky van the local wrecker ran out of escort diffs because of me the spider gears are the weak link they dont like axle tramp i broke one doing a burnout on a pile of dead geese to see if it would smell like roast chicken

have seen a couple of rotary engined veehicles with carb secondarys modified to open mechanically, thus giving the illusion of more power due to the fact there is a big flat spot and then surge. = wanky. the reason a holley carb with mechanical secondaries is known as a double pumper is because it has two accelerator pumps to stop the lean condition when the second throttles are opened

yea was more about having enough advance off boost to run properly and not have to have a locked dizzy....... rather than randomly pulling timing out with no thought involved

was thinking the other day of similar ideas ( non computer conrolled turbo shenanigans) of using wastegate actuator to retard timing under boost- like a vacuum advance but in reverse

turbo can be an issue for suck thru turbo as they usually arent designed to have vacuum on the compressor side, may require fandangled seal to avoid clouds of smokes may be easier to use small holley 2 barrel? easy to get parts, theres plenty of blown v8s making good power with 4 barrel holleys and you can get bits to suit blowthru application. they dont have boxes around carb either usually a hat on top. im sure the 2010 wrx has a blow thru carb set up. or nah