cletus

yep it says on the first page, if outside of the guide, manufacturers specs must be followed- with proof supplied so if you can get a particular brand of tyre, say a 195/50/15, and the manufacturer of the tyre says its ok to use on a 9" rim, then it can be certed.

Got a revised one of these today- it now lists individual tyre sizes with the rim width allowable for that size its 5 or so pages long now so will try to get a link or a copy up somehow might make life easier for some

you got it right there they have a big 5 stud pattern i looked at one the other day that had HQ discs on the front, sorry dont know what has to be done to fit them. the original engine wasnt very powerful at all most of them ended up with holden 6pots. cool vans though. would look good on widened original wheels with hub caps maybe?

Cool! having a 5 speed box must be a bonus. ive had 3 of these all with tridents/lowered /v8. i reckon they look tuff especially from behind they have a nice ass haha. my current one is even the same colour as yours

so did herbie laugh at you and spit oil in your face? or was the 1uz fast enough to get away?

awesome. i had a 250 shifter kart that i built for a while. nobody died but a few came close haha. keen to build another one with silly amounts of power

eng bay paint done, rad support painted and fully sick innercooler mounted and painted. cant see it when the bumper and grille is on. the rectangle hole is hidden by the bumper/number plate

Drive shaft specialists in east tamaki. Very helpful and reasonably priced.

i built an engine years ago that broke one of the rod bolts when torquing it up- the last one. couldnt be bothered stripping it all so just whacked in a new set of arp bolts and it survived years of abuse and revs Getting the rods resized is one of those things thats recommended to do when rebuilding engines anyway but you might get away with not doing it. cant see why it would make any difference on mains, as the caps are located by a tight fit in the block or dowels and the mains are usually bolts which you have to remove anyway

the muffler must be a dumpy tip one to fit a rotor. also required- unreadable graffiti sticker for front or rear windows interior to smell like weed diff to be welded up

biggest issue i can think of is the steering arm- usually on a fwd car the rack is mounted quite high so the steering arm on the hub is also high. Doesnt take a lot of change heightwise to make bumpsteer quite bad- a torana i drove once went from being absolutely shithouse horrible to normal, moving the steering arm down 15mm. (it had HQ spindles and brakes)

unless you build something using the original chassis and body combination it will be a 2010 car and have to comply with the rules for building a new car eg if you build a 40 ford pickup on a 40 ford chassis and you have rego history or its still registered, then its a 40 ford. if you put a 40 cab on a 85 l200 chassis then its a 2010 lvvta rustmaster or whatever you want to call it

geminis made in australia have a borg warner diff, it looks like a commy one but they have smaller axles- there may be other differences as well smaller gears etc australia has/had local content rules where a oz made car has to have x amount of oz made stuff- eg the oz r31 skyline having a bw solid axle instead of the independent rear like japan and some odd combinations like some old coronas had a holden 4cyl in them in oz dont know about pizzas though

sold on trademe on sunday.......still havnt heard from buyer, ill let you know if it falls through Comp works out to be 8.75-1 with the edelbrock heads. the local speed shop was trying to sell me one of those powerjection things but bit out of my price range....i do like the idea though.....all the efi stuff hidden away..... i want it to all look like it could have been a factory option, the engine will be factory colours, with repro engine bay decals, original rocker covers etc. will probably be blow thru carb mainly to keep it simple looking and not needing to spend arms and legs keen as to get it going for powercruise! will be a good test for the $300 tardme auto ive got for it haha

Have made a bit of progress with this thing Building a turbo 318 for it, alloy heads, steel crank, scat rods, forged pistons, garrett gt4082, 60mm w/gate just need cam and lifters and engine can go together pulled out 245, done turbo pipes and exhaust, intercooler, tidied underside, chassis connectors, mod fuel tank, shifter next job is engine bay paint

yes requires cert, most of the arms i have seen have been ok, there is some cheap crap around that is poorly designed and made though.

there are comp ratio calculators in the internetz here is one http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html if you know the cc of the dish in the piston and the other relevant info you can figure it out on there

yes if its all bolt on parts you should be fine

Thats the sort of thing you will want to discuss with the certifier you plan on using, if the 3 fixing points on each side are far enough apart then that should be fine the main thing i would be thinking about would be any extra leverage on the mounting points, because of the braking force applied by the radius rods....without seeing it is hard to make that call. the other thing to consider is the steering shaft, you will need a longer one.... cant be extended by cutting and welding, needs to be a new one piece shaft or a factory longer one out of a suitable donor car. the rules for this arent available online, its in the hobby car manual

yep might save you some drama later on

where is the valve that operates the power assist ram?

sounds good. bit hard to tell without seeing it and i cant remember what a brumby looks like underneath, but subaru outbacks and foresters are raised up like how you have described from factory, ie. spacers between x member and body where is the rack mounted to, on the x member? Are you going to space the front struts down the same amount?

Technically speaking you need to re-cert the vehicle for a change in wheel sizes. Certifier needs to assess that change in wheel size will not have detrimental effect on handling, braking or clearance to body or suspension components. Some certifiers will do these checks for a reduced charge for wheel change only, plus the cost of a Cert Plate Reprint. It is also possible to have a vehicle certified for more than one wheel size, road wheels & drag wheels for example. That would need discussing with your certifier of choice correct. the 100mm rule goes out the window anyway if it is certed for being lowered and the measurements match the plate

flares like that on thier own wouldnt need a cert, but the mods needed to fill them out and get it to look right probably would, ie wheel spacers, proper suspension, cut out original guards etc. and then the flares would be on the cert anyway

need to fit a non power steer equivalent or have rack modified by reputable place to be non power steer- reason being there is a little `torsion bar' inside a power rack that operates the power assist valve- removing the pump ect causes stress on the torsion bar and eventually it can break