cletus

i had a fwd 626 years ago, they were well known for blowing gaskets.... i retorqued it about 3 or 4 times and it never blew again even giving it death. the only engine i wouldnt be doing a retorque on would be later model engines with torque to yield bolts

height change needs a re cert.... costs the same and is just as much paperwork etc as starting from scratch roll bars (1/2 cages) bolt in or weld in dont actually need certing if they meet the requirements in the wof bible. however most cars that need a roll bar have enough other mods to need a cert anyway. as mentioned above need authority card for roll cages in a unit construction passenger car. height is measured from the center of the hub to the guard straight above it

yes does require certing and yes it can be certed, needs to have all ABS components removed properly

should be ok this is a situation where you should get your local certifier involved so they know what you are up to

if it was mine id leave the outer ones alone they look like they would compress a lot anyway, maybe trim a bit off the one in the middle, be careful not to cut too much off and have the driveshaft rub the floor

am going to watch. went last year and it was awesome. wanted to take motorcar to do loss of traction but its not going yet .

you could use a relay to just make the system work when the engines not running eg a switching relay off the + side of the coil cant remember how much crack testing costs, depends where you get it done i spose. magnaflux is fine usually

modern fuel is not good for older engines that sit for longtime- fouls plugs easily. if you start it and hold rpm at steady 2500-3000 at a light throttle opening that usually clears it out pretty good, you will hear the fouled cylinder start popping and eventually clear itself. pumping the throttle will make it worse, dumping more fuel into a cylinder that isnt firing will make it harder for the plug to sort itself out thats if somethings not fucked like a valve etc as previously mentioned sometimes a leaky headgasket will cause the same thing

was it sitting around for ages? rusty water shit in exhaust getting blown out?

nice car. love xa-xb falcs + looks good in that colour and on those wheels

sold the old engine on trademe- got a whopping $20 for it haha was going to keep it at that $ but no room at my house

engine 90% assembled just rocker gear to go on, painted, bunged into enginehole. Was going to paint engine red as per factory but started painting it and it looked too RED so went with a lovely industrial shade of grey carb on its way from aussie still got to get ignition/fuelpump/reg/ a million little things and sort out diff this engine should be a good test for the trademe timebomb torqueflite- supposedly rebuilt 10 years ago and not used much. not expecting it to last too long. only got small tyres so hoping they are the weakest link

cool wagon. i had a purple one for a runaround years ago its funny how something i thought was butt ugly at the time actually is quite cool now

some stuff needs to be welded by a ticketed welder and crack tested but its only parts considered "critical" eg brake caliper brackets, loaded suspension arms etc. engine mounts and things like that are ok to be welded by joe bloggs as long as the welds are ok

a starlet with big outboard motor/expansion chambers would be awesome. Like a rotary but probably more annoying for everyone. ningningningning+blue smoke clouds

droop again depends on the suspension, but usually can get away with a bit less droop than bump travel

hobby car manual says 40mm minimum as a rough guide. really depends on the suspension/how big and soft the bumpstops are/what car/how many passengers it carries/what it drives like etc. a vehicle must still be safe loaded- eg a 5 seater must be able to carry 5 X 80kg persons and still have travel. a lot of smaller cars dont meet this requirement because the springs are too girly. eg a 323 wagon with reset original leaves with 40mm bumpstop clearance, usually is on the bumpstops with 2 passengers in it

go on www.nzmoparforum.co.nz search username "avenga" he loves them.

they are not designed for large power loads, they only work at light throttle. the clutch in the converter isnt very big

you are correct, i was just being lazy not typing it all out

same as wof- if its got a bigger/turbo engine than factory, it will need cert

nail on the head there we have to inspect ALL modifications, plus "safety items"- basically a wof check. If the car has had a wof check in the past 14 days then we dont have to check those things- the wof inspector takes the responsibility. i still check the car as normal anyway even if there is a recent wof check....who knows who looked at it, and quite often there is shit wrong like knackered ball joints or perished brake hoses which are better to know about before doing the road test........ i wouldnt rely on the wof guy to tell me whats been modified it can make it easier if the owner writes down all the mods they have done so we dont have to go hunting for whats been changed- nobody knows whats been modified better than the person who did it

it says on the front of the infosheet that if the certifier is presented with a tyre/wheel combo outside what this says then manufacturers specs must be followed, so either your tyre is approved by the manufacturer for that size rim, or the certifier ignored/is unaware of the rules. its not just a 'guide'.

Page for 10inch , 12inch, 13inch , 14inch Diameter Wheels Page for 15inch & 16inch Diameter Wheels Page for 17inch & 18inch Diameter Wheels Page for 19inch, 20inch & 21inch Diameter Wheels theres the relevant pages, theres bigger sizes but i dont think anyone on here is into donks