cletus

ive often thought about whats going to be a desirable vehicle in the future....cars often have a "cool"period when they are new/current, get to that 15 year old mark where nobody gives a shit about them, they get thrashed/cut up/crashed/scrapped, numbers go down, people start getting nostalgic about them, value goes up again nice car fuel, cool to see an original one

that sort of thing may differ a bit between certifiers, ive certed a couple of escorts where similar things happen to the brace in the tunnel- id trim as little as possible out of it, and if you are bolting the x-member thru panel steel (floor) bolt it to the flat part of the floor close to the tunnel, and on the topside of the floor make reinforcement plates reasonably large that go along the flat part of the floor and up the sides of the tunnel. basic rule of thumb is dont make it any weaker than it was when it was original

my computer is retarded (dial up, oldschool as) cant see pics, are these things you speak of called "frog ribs" google came up with that.....if so, would need cert, you might have to pad them near driver/passenger like you would with a roll cage

http://lvvta.org.nz/stdExhaustGasEmissions.pdf from 2.6(6) describes testing and pass/fail AFR`s. EFI, Carb and diesel have different figures. Your car wont need to comply with that cos its still got its "original" engine though.

will do emission test but its not hard to pass- its only an air fuel ratio check and make sure its got the correct sensors etc if its efi sorry cant recommend anyone, i dont know any of the certifiers in that area, maybe someone else who has dealt with them can throw their 2c in here?

as is probably common knowledge, 1st gen d2 = shit, they leak etc. Have never seen a set of the 2nd gen stuff yet. Have certed heaps of BC and ive never seen a set leak yet plus they ride nice and the adjustment actually makes a difference. and they have properly designed brackets for brake hoses etc. if i was buying for my own car would probably go with BC.

wont need cat.

if the engine AND the car was originally equipped with a cat then it needs one unless you can prove it was fitted prior to 1/5/10. what sort of car is it?

can be done, just needs to be welded by a competent welder, does need cert. i put some bars to tie the front and rear rails together in my car it made a noticeable difference - when its jacked up on one corner the doors open and shut now haha

looks fine to me. that part of the tower will be quite strong (double skinned and near the edges)

quite enjoyed the noises from your exhaust pipes love how 1uzzzz revs till it sounds like it going to explode

probably not. if its strong and bolted to the original holes you should be ok. yeah just the rear. with cruiser gearbox there is no centre diff so 4x4 is only on loose surfaces/offroad/slower speeds. if you have fulltime 4wd then maybe you might need a front one too? although I dont know how if you have a solid front axle as the diff goes up and down too much to practically fit a hoop + theres probably nothing decent to bolt/weld it to since it would be under the sump probably yep 4x4 only need a loop on the rear shaft

if they are a bolt in, on to your original seat mounts/rails and the seatbelt buckles are not affected you wont need a cert. Yea how can i rectify it? havent taken it in for a wof(not planning on it until I get the engine in but I will net to get it certfied). Will I be able get a panel beater to straighten it out and/or conceal ? or will I need to take it in to a specialist with one of those chassis rail straightener thingys? If so what are the prics like (I assume an arm and a leg for that stz)? you can fix it yourself. if the wof inspector has doubts about the repair he can request a letter from someone(panelbeater etc) hard to tell from the pics how bad it is....is the rail actually bent or has it been damaged by a jack or tiedown or something. if its bent then better go see a panelbeater. any good panel shop should be able to straigten it out rule says it must be made from "tubing of a material specification appropriate for a drive shaft". so if its stronger, and you can weld the stainless tube to the steel yokes successfully then it should be fine. this

the subaru one will have an outlet for the front brakes and one for the rear. the original one would have had just 1 for all 4 wheels. you will need to make new lines to suit the new cylinder.

lvvta are working on this issue at the moment- problem is there are so many body/chassis combinations possible its hard to legally define what each vehicle is. a 521 body on a 720 chassis would be called a scratchbuilt you can name the model of a scratchbuilt vehicle when its first registered- doubt it could be "offensive" though, like personalised plates

yep they dont like "sucking" fuel its better if they are gravity fed. a partially blocked filter or hot fuel can make the noise worse too. my work car has a walbro pump done more than 150,000km, on a hot day with low fuel in the tank ( fuel gets hot doing laps from tank-engine-tank-engine) the pump gets louder than the exhaust

Neither. will be a new vehicle, ie a 2011 lvvta poomax diddlecruiser or something like that. this.

its usually easier/cheaper to get the correct box for the vehicle than fuck around making one from something else work....... i had a th700 commo box rebuilt not long ago, it was about $1200

went to drags and broke 2x rockers. pulled it apart today, total damage 2 rockers with pushrods poking thru, another 5 with hairline cracks around the pushrod cup, 1 pushrod bent. had a few spares so replaced them all....wil have to take it easy on it till i can get some flash stronger ones.

can be done but would definetly need cert if you are changing anything structural like suspension mounting reinforcements like in that picture. pretty sure theres nothing in the rule book about that.... my work car has done over 150,000 km with welded axles done by diffs r us ( borg warner center with terrano axles and brakes) with commodore v6 engine. I wouldnt do it to anything thats going to get abused though or if it has a lot of power.

i had the same thing on 318 small port heads with a victor jr manifold on a previous engine i had. went well. obviously its not ideal but it will still work

ha i thought the same thing looks cool man. love these on old 14" wide wheels and low they are a tough looking car

yes twincam head and it will (hopefully for you) make more than 20% more power. no they need to be there and working. will be fine as long as its not sharp- all foward facing projections must have a 3mm radius and not be dangerous to pedestrians that you are running over. http://lvvta.org.nz/stdExternalProjections.pdf

That is awesome. Have thought one of these would be easy to lower, make longer link from spring to hub in rear? i like yer wheelz

had a look at your build thread - probably ok the way it is, if it was mine id probably weld that 5mm plate to the x member so it cant move at all. as for rear susp- probably have to see it . will have a look at nats if you like.