cletus

Nice! What are those seats?

Looks good mate, pretty tuff looking with those wheels and flares! have seen a few cars Grant has done, he does a nice job.

hmm. shouldnt need a password its on www.lvvta.org.nz look for certification threshold schedule

are you talking about the kingsland branch by any chance?

not a cert item unless you have cut the guard out underneath. however a lot of cars should be certed because of the mods required to fill the guards out though- wheel spacers, wide wheels etc here is a list of stuff that doesnt need cert http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplement ... eshold.pdf

# make sure the accelerator pump squirter is squirting fuel as soon as the throttle moves. # idle mixture screw adjustment too lean?, i usually start with 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in. # too much static timing? #leads on right/ firing order correct/ leads in good order, not crossfiring # i had a similar problem with a engine i had , had a 650dp on it, the air cleaner lid was too close to the choke horn, had a stumble on a full throttle stab, didnt do it with the air cleaner lid off.

wunderbar van Allan, es ist cool

haha yeah hopefully. checked the block and head casting numbers, couldnt find any info with the block numbers but it is a `67 block, the head casting numbers say they are `68-`72 318 heads, no adjustable rockers. when i was looking for a manifold, there was a factory early 273 4 barrel manifold on the tard,i did some research and the early 273 engine had heads specific to that engine with manifold bolts/threads on a different angle to all the other LA engines.

got an edelbrock performer dual plane. might keep my eyes peeled for a vac sec carb as well- since its not a powerhouse i would like to get reasonable economy out of it

sweet. some of these are 4 wheel drive arent they? Whats the electric head rest for?

more progress, engine out of rusty one, and sold, gearbox out, engine out of good one for a tidy up. have got some headers, 4 barrel manifold, spare 600 holley off my other car, and have got some shiny bits on the way to tart it up, and some paint. also some good scores, the diff in the green one turned out to be a 3.23 lsd, and the trans in the good one is a 727.

if there is an unused factory anchorage, that can be used without a cert. you may find some older imports that have been here a long time have anchorages fitted and no cert- there was a time when this was allowed

This. For a short period of time, these were the local gangs car of choice (after HQ's, and before XF coons) and there were no less than two, rocking deep dish tridents. LOOKED FUCKING TUFFFFFFFFF anyone else remember this? im sure the bad guys drove a jag/there was a jag in there somewhere also, just going to leave this here.....

yep as KK said, has to be done. can be quite tricky as well in that era of sporty coupe cars as in some of them,there isnt anywhere easy to put the belt anchorage, because of the big rear windows.

to be 100% legal, yes it would have to be on the plate.

stainless is different sounding, is a bit 'tinny'

you wont have to get zero bumpsteer, it wil just have to be an 'acceptable' amount. LVVTA has not set what is an acceptable amount yet so i guess its mostly up to the certifier. you may already know, you will need a 1D category certifier for this, the ones I can think of are Mark Stokes, who I work for, hes quite busy at the moment and going away next month Neil Fraser Lance Walsh, although im not sure if hes still doing it at the moment

i dont know wether stainless is better from a noise reduction view but it would last longer. the bigger the better though- the larger the muffler,( body size not pipe diameter) the more packing it has and the better it can absorb the noise. i tested mine when i replaced the muffler, it had a flowmaster 50 series on it which turned out to be too restrictive, the stainless one is oval, 3''perf tube inside, with just a kink in it, you can see right thru it. it was exactly the same with both mufflers.

how quiet do you want it? ive built several exhausts, having the most effective muffler at the end of the exhaust gives it the 'smoothest' sound, having a long unmuffled tailpipe makes it 'cackly' stainless dumpy mufflers or your typical cannon mufflers are shit, unless its a flash high end japanese brand. having a turbo helps shut it up a lot, and 2.5" instead of 3" will also be good for not being stupidly noisy. if you want it reasonably quiet, a coby in the middle and a super-turbo style triple pass muffler at the back would be my suggestion my car has a 3" system with a big ish stainless packed straight thru muffler under the rear seat, then a long coby just before the bumper, and thats reasonably quiet for what it is

protip- when using a torque wrench, stop leaning on it when it goes 'click' every tyre shop i go to, the tyre shop monkeys are all OMG MUST USE TORQUE WRENCH OR WHEELS WILL FALL OFF, when it goes click they keep leaning on it/give it another 1/8th of a turn. if they arent going to pay any attention to the correct torque setting, just use a rattlegun or a powerbar to snap the studs off with.

from the commercials pic thread; when i did my one, the donor navara chassis was a long wheel base so i was going to have to cut it anyway. putting terrano body on a swb chassis= have to make body mounts and fuel tank mounts putting navara front clip on the front = have to cut and join chassis, cut terrano suspension out of the back and make some other rear suspension work if i did it all again id probably use a swb 2wd chassis and chop the body mounts off the terrano chassis, and make or swap the terrano gas tank mounts onto it. you could even make some of your money back by putting a navara cab on the terrano chassis- 4x4 ute for cheaps

as long as it doesnt ever hit anything, (allowing for movement in mounts as well) and it should be mounted in a way that if the engine mount were to fail, the engine cant move far enough to jam the steering. this can be quite tricky- many 1uz conversions have issues with this due to the head/exhaust manifold usually being quite close to steering shafts in hiluxes etc

a bit on the small side for going thru a panel steel floor stolen from lvv forum: Where it is not practicable to attach a drive-shaft safety loop to a chassis or sub-frame rail, or rigid cross-member, it should be attached to the vehicle floor using doubler plates which have a minimum mating area of 3000 square mm, and are as close to square as can be practically achieved. i usually suggest using 50x50 square washers for each bolt just cause its easy to explain/write down

cheers Dane! Andy- if it needs to be there because of a modification then it can be covered by the lvv cert, ie if its been cut out to make room for the engine or trans. as long as its safe, etc otherwise it would have to be fixed to the repair cert standards.

spring washers or nylocs are fine, the rules dont actually mention a lockwasher or anything on the driveshaft loop bolts