cletus

ill have a spare chair in my waka for the ride down. staying in whitianga sat night then home on sunday

if that gasket looking stuff adds up to a circle, it might be a clutch plate/lining of a clutch out of the trans has departed somehow

looks like it is meant to have a different type of spring plate, wider spacing with a spring isolator

is the problem that the u bolts are on the piss? or does it not fit in some other way? straightening the u bolts is easy enough, loosen them off, get a f clamp and clamp the bolts together til they are straight, do them up again. sometimes you can do it by hand or with a hammer, just tap them straight then re tighten

got a pic?

tis only a rule change away. or, as p8vete said, chuck any old body on. Im sure thats why they went to the current chassis anyway, they would have known years ago that falcons and commodes were on the way out

will probably get rid of the sharp edges but that will be about it . will be interesting to see how it goes, when i was an apprentice i built a 318 with a complete fuckup of a combination, (650dp, victor jr manifold, stock heads not ported at all, sloppy worn out valve guides, probably low ish compression, big cam, stock converter) and it went pretty good considering.......this should be fairly torquey

after some goober with a die grinder attacked them waiting on valves to arrive then will send them off for some exhaust guides and seats. block should be machined this week. its having a 40 thou haircut to get the comp ratio back up. SB chryslers are terrible for low compression which is part of the reason i built a turbo one. most aftermarket pistons have a much lower compression height than original- the best ones i could find at reasonable price were out of a later model magnum 318, they were still 30 thou shorter than the factory slugs. without decking the block they would sit 60 down from the deck, about 8.5-1 comp. depending on weather the heads need a skim, comp should be 9.3- 9.5 now. will probably need shorter pushrods now too......

my brother has just been through all that with his VC. as far as i know, VC and earlier use a dana diff rather than a BW, which isnt very strong. my brother ended up fitting a VG diff/lsd etc

not with the dual plane manifold you have, it has a split plenum so if you turn it sideways the carb will only feed half the engine

not that critical to have a choke. you will get used to it pretty quick. one or 2 pumps on the pedal, hold it open 1/4 throttle and it should start, then as ^ said keep feathering the pedal till its warm enough to drive

got a good earth wire on the engine? + wire big enough from alt to battery?

should be able to do it with a couple of screwdrivers at a pinch, you might even be able to do it by hand if you had your weetbix this morning

I can vouch for the services this gentleman provides, i was surprised how much better my vehicle looked when photographed properly.

there isnt a specific way of mounting the tank in the book, it says it should withstand a 20g impact without falling out of the vehicle. IMO straps are the best way of mounting a tank, if not, consider where the stresses on the sides of the tank where the brackets are- i have seen them cracked where they have had brackets welded to the sides of the tank without a plate to spread the load ie that style mounted hanging from the brackets would be no good

im keen. thought my car might be out of action but next engine taking longer than anticipated the back way thru clevedon/kawakawa etc would be cool meet point could be that big bp after papakura offramp? then get off the motorway at drury again and head to clevedon that way

there isnt a set amount. i have come to my own conclusion, of around half bump travel minimum, (usually 20mm as a rule of thumb) not including keeper springs. any less than that and the springs are too stiff for road use IMO

depends on what car/weight/engine/ brake setup you have. if the brakes are borderline size wise get the best pads you can get

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf doubler plates is 2.9 in here, what you need to do if mounting a new seat to a floor

you need to get a hobby car manual. it is expensive but its not a lot compared to the cost of building a car it has the forms you will need for TAC approval of your design

like beaver said, once its certed, then you are stuck with what the plate says. so if it says oe wheels, thats what it has to have

Heres some answers to commonly asked cert questions. What size tyre can I run on my rims? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf What are the rules with driveshaft loops? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf What are the rules regarding camber? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf How do i weld up my adjustable struts? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/ What are the rules regarding fuel systems? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf What are the rules for air bag suspensions? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf Where can I find the rules for WOF inspections? http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof What can I modify on a car without needing a cert? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf What are the rules regarding wheel spacers? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46520-wheel-adaptors-and-spacers/

i keep meaning to do exactly that and sell for MAX PROFITZ

as mentioned, bilstein does it. have only seen in a non mcpherson strut suspension though. also would be sceptical it could be done on a factory shock housing as they would probably not be thick enough

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.2 ( has the requirements. the fact that your diff is the same isnt really relevant as its the axles and bearings that take the load, the third paragraph explains what you would have to do if you wanted to retain your factory axles and run more than 20% offset