cletus

http://www.cragarwheel.com/products16-38/CragarSeries377Supreme http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/cragar-377-series-supreme-chrome-wheels?tw=cragar%20377&sw=Cragar%20377%20Series%20Supreme%20Chrome%20Wheels bg marketing is a cragar dealer, they dont have these on their website but they might be able to get them for you http://www.bgworldwheels.co.nz/bghome.asp

those astro copies are no good as mentioned. cragar do one that is ok. the funny thing about cragars is the construction method sounds even more hori than those^ they have a aluminium center with steel inserts cast into them, which are then welded to the steel outer rim

id have to look back thru some of our training notes, im pretty sure adjustable ones were not ok, that might have been the ones with a thread to do the adjusting. there was some talk of extra long adjustable ones causing issues with trying to twist the steering arm also. if it was allowed, and some would be, (you can buy balljoints and tierod ends that have revised pivot points for some cars) you would need a 1D certifier to do a bump steer check as part of the cert to make sure it does actually improve the bumpsteer and not make it worse

have always had a hankering for an old tracked vehicle of some sort. cool project.

the way i interpret the hobby car manual, you shouldnt need a loop at all. that may differ depending on your certifier. make sure your springs, if they are cut, match the spring seat shape wheel alignment if you think the pinion angle is excessive, then that may be an issue how did you section the struts?

everything from the manifolds to the downpipe down to the gearbox got done, spark plug leads go between the manifold and the downpipe and have never been cooked

i had my manifolds/front bits of exhaust done in HPC hi temp stuff. seems to work- theres a lot of hot exhaust bits in the engine bay and it doesnt get that hot under the bonnet and has lasted well, and has had a number of full load stationary cooling system tests, which is quite scientific of course. http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/ExhaustHeatManagement/tabid/32279/Default.aspx#HiPerCoat_Extreme would definitely do it again

ute came equipped with fancypants semisealed lights with good blubs and a headlight relay, its good at night. VG still has lucas prince of darkness useless sealed beams, can/have to drive around on high beam and never get flashed at by other motorists

i tried tubes, that was a major cockup- nearly stopped me getting to last os nats- had 3 punctures. i ended up getting the tubes removed in palmy and went back to dealing with slow leaks. correct thing to do would be send back to the guy that welded them up and get him to sort it out, would mean having to get them stripped and painted again though. that is why i have put it off for so long....

will definetly get the wide ones back on, after i sort out the leaks and make a better less scrapey exhaust, ive just been using it for the MANLY CHORES so much i havnt had a chance to work on it

i got the shits with those wide steels and having to pump the tyres up every day, i had enough spare tyres and a set of charger rims so had these powdercoated and bunged them on for now until i sort out the other ones this thing has been handy, it has actually been used for its intended purpose as a load carrying contraption a few times, and has never missed a beat. uses not a lot of gas either. have got a spare 2.77 diff for it so am going to fit that for max economy. Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com

also, saw a pic of a pacer on wide black steels that i liked, so i had the wheels powdercoated black, swapped tyres over again, bullet wheel nuts and no hubcaps. Uploaded with ImageShack.com

my boss has one of those little batterys, also has piddly little connectors, i didnt believe it would work either. cranks over a blown 400+cube v8 no problem

cool will keep that in mind, cheers

went to the drags again, boost at 10psi now, did a 12.4@110mph. pulled axles to check splines and the lh one is just starting to show signs of twisting next plan is to do some suspension tuning, it gets a big lean on hard launches, might look at making some caltrac style traction bars

have seen one model of recaro seat bracket that needed bigger bolts to cope with belt buckle loading. most of them are ok though

you have to have a motorsport authority card to run them on a road car legally

have you tried stainless packing? have seen it for sale at supercheap

last one of those i did, when i filled out the paperwork i wrote it was not necessary or possible to fit loops due to the design of the chassis, it went through fine as for compliance for american cars- north shore compliance on porana rd are pretty good, or western compliance on westward ho rd in kelston- talk to Mooks hes a good bloke or C&P motors in grey lynn

Cant see a problem if that area of the strut tower is strong enough, which it should be. Will need TAC approval and a 1D certifier to do it, however.

i asked that same question at a training session, and i think the answer was along the lines of "if its not being certed we dont have to worry about it." as far as i know most vehicles that have the strut constructed that way have a replaceable insert so aftermarket complete struts are not that common. its not mentioned in the wof book so i doubt it would be a wof fail issue

that sir, is correct.

i get what you mean, and there are thousands of struts worldwide that are modified like that and have not failed however, lvvta have made it a blanket rule the same for all situations recently there was some testing done on a commonly available aftermarket strut for hondas with a welded on cast arm. it failed the first test, (something to do with the welding affecting the casting in the area it was welded on) the manufacturer modified the welding process and another one was tested and still failed. at this point the importer gave up cause they dont sell a heap of them anyway if a factory strut fails, its the vehicle manufacturers fault, as soon as a modified strut is fitted and certified, the certifier takes responsibility if there is a problem- not the strut modifier or manufacturer

see above