cletus

Have you got somewhere you could attach a vent pipe to the engine box? Ie something like a 3" flexible hose with a fan in it to suck the hot air out when you park?

Yeah that looks ok to me You can actually weld brake caliper brackets if tig welded and passes ndt Your idea looks better though

I have had ideas of a database of different vehicles and their common issues/problems/things to look out for Should figure out how to make an app or something I can make $ from

If you are using a Tilton or willwood pedal box you won't have to worry about pedal ratio. It's only a guide anyway not a *it must be this* thing. There's a lot of brake systems with pedal ratios outside of the manual that still work fine

Not really any rules because every car is different , just has to be secure and fit for purpose. Most pedal boxes I've seen need mounting in 2 planes ie not just to the firewall, also needs to be tied in to the steering column mount/dash bar/ roll cage . Pretty much like most factory pedal boxes do Steel or stainless only for bulkhead fittings The brake chapter of the CCM is being updated soon so will have a lot more info in it

note 4 should have you covered for one of those https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-interior/seatbelts-and-seatbelt-anchorages#table754-popup

I've had quite a few customers have problems with those bolt on efi things, one shit itself when I was starting it to road test it They often run like a carb with jets 10 sizes too big as well I think they have too many compromises to make them easy to bolt on

that looks a million times better with the wellside on it, gud jerb

Have you got a plan for diff, suspension etc?

I look forward to updates on this one, that engine swap is out of the box! How well does it fit in the hole?

This might be helpful if you do it again, stops any extra debris

correct, for cert, cant be forward of the axle centerline, have tried to get an exemption for one that was only slightly forward and was already done, nope. i m o its not ideal to put a surge tank in the engine bay anyway due to heat you have to be wary of things designed for use in america, parts are often designed for ease of use/diy/it bolts on!, not safety or optimal performance

New exhaust time I've been meaning to do this since I lowered it because the front pipe has had a bit of a hard life plus I wanted it a bit quieter Twin 2" with the crossover a bit further back tucked up higher into a single 3" , and a big truck muffler. When did exhaust stuff get so expensive, this was $800 in parts, eek

yes! valve cover and intake look like the boat one

1963 hillman super minx engine? oil filter looks like its in the right spot you could figure out capacity from bore and stroke measurements Hillman Super Minx - Wikipedia

I asked lvvta if that was acceptable on a jeep- it had aftermarket 2 piece brake rotors with 12? 6mm bolts , it didn't have lock washers so I was trying to come up with an easy fix Not allowed. Had to replace all the bolts because they were too short once a lock washer was fitted

Should be fine, as long as the thread is at least level with the back face of the hub, and decent quality etc There isn't any specific rules on them but I'd recommend loctiting them in to the hub so you don't get a situation where you undo the wheel nut, and the stud comes out a bit, then you tighten the nut but the stud isn't all the way in properly

If that's the case, then the process @Goat described is the way forward It will need a new 17 digit vin tag fitted before the certifier can submit the paperwork and photos

probably OK in 6061 t6 but it depends on how much offset the caliper has Steel is a safer bet

It's usually up to a vin issuing agent (aa, vtnz,vinz, drivesure) to sort out ID issues Is the rego on hold? Or dereg? There is a form your certifier can give you which might help trying to sort it out

Would need to get the go ahead from lvvta For some reason , doing anything with lowering gvm is not possible every time I've asked So then you're stuck with whatever gvm it has, and any replacement hubs/suspension components have to be able to handle that load Going from 6 to 4 stud won't fly either for the same reason

If you can get to the back side, put a washer on for the rivet to grip onto

More normal size wheels and just buy some decent tyres? Much less mucking around, unless it's for looks

New S23 on its bum @36000km It amazes me how much of a difference new tyres make to a bike, doing the front one last year made it handle much nicer, now doing the rear has improved it a lot again. This tyre is the same size but appears slightly narrower which may influence it slightly? I dunno. Last time I rode it I had a couple of "wtf are you doing, have you forgotten how to go around a corner, you cabbage?" whereas this time I did not accuse myself of being any sort of vegetable

The last one of those I did , needed extra mounts , as the tank was a lot bigger than original but still bolted in with 4x 8mm bolts or whatever an rx3 has Plus sealing the boot, making sure fuel can't leak onto electrical or exhaust etc