Ranter

Keep us up to date with this, I have a few turbo versions that use the same head and am very interested in your work.

I'd have access to another head and heater pipe (if it has one) before starting job, they corrode away pretty bad and last few I've done have needed new heads.

I'm happy to have a look if needed, pretty much any time outside work hours or a proper hoist check during work if need be.

On one occasion there it was the coldest I have even been, constant wind in face all day straight off the mountain. Not one complaint was heard though and every other time was mint weather.

Buy one that some dealer has added wheels stripes or whatever it takes to move them, get them to put a sticker to indicate it is a special version. Import under siv system. (not taking into account truck is a different class of vehicle to the cars they do this to)

Seal well is excellent, you need the heater tap open or it blocks that up too. I wouldn't use anything else, bars leaks and the like make a mess of everything.

Reilly motorsports, he reckons they've done over 2000 cars. I kinda watched a YouTube video showing them fitting a kit and didn't like a couple of things. It's hard with the Americans I think, they don't seem to have any regulations and the sheer number of them means heaps of cowboys. This guy has provided all the specs of each part and seemed to have some knowledge of nz's laws, modifying steering and suspension is a big modification so I would want to know I'm fitting good quality legal stuff. Also I'd like facts so as not to have to bother the certifier with every query. I thought that, it says steering arms are 1/2 inch thick laser cut mild steel with cnc machined spacer welded to forged steel spindles. Good info I'll need a copy. Yeah 69 general lee replica, these planned changes are a for later after its legal.

Thinking about a kit from the U.S. to fit rack and pinion and coil overs to a Charger, have its specs but it says steering arm is welded to the spindles. They are not cast but is it legit here?

Had to laugh at (Jan 78) Austin Maxi or 1600 Sport Escort, tough choices man. So if we didn't assemble cars so that imported labour could get minimum wage we'd have a cheaper more varied selection? That would be interesting to work out, is there a currency calculator that can convert values from then till now?

It would need to be a highly modified engine to bend valves or a combination of 2.4 and 2.0 parts. Or more simply, valves have not hit pistons. Jet valves (which I completely forgot about) are usually left alone but if removed are always blanked off.

Check crank sprocket tdc mark against mark on crank pulley and outside plastic cover. Since you use a tin plate between the sprockets with the tdc mark on it it can be fitted back to front, it won't hurt anything (valves/Pistons) unless you've modified the engine internally. Note that the picture above seems to be for a fwd engine, things do get swapped over the years but it shows you what you need to know. The cam timing mark will be on the other side of the head on an original Starion engine.

I undo the bottom ball joint for ease, I also have one of these I think it was a service part. Makes refitting the engines easy, good tilt going in then just straightens up. Don't have as much dramas with the crosses now. I always forget to connect speedo cable going in so don't forget that.

Is it driveable? If the owner would bring it to Addington (next suburb over) I'll be happy to chuck it up on a hoist and give it the once over. Otherwise I can go view it during work hours.

They're are well known for poor hi revs shifting, I tried every brand available in my Starion some are better than others and it sometimes takes a few days before you get the benefits. There was a Duckhams (SP?) that was good and Caltex easy shift 75w90, next time I will use what I do in Pajeros, a full synthetic Amsoil. Gotta change the gearbox oil in Mitsis every second service when they are in full use.

Its been 4 years and I decided to get the earthquake damage and the front guard repaired where paint had reacted. The repairs to the fibreglass front spoiler were no good and made it unusable, so I got a American spec rubber/plastic one and that is now painted ready to be fitted. I prefer the look of the original one but not much I can do, it is better to just move forward. Shitty cell pic, it is painted now. I'm going to get the panel shop to fit the spoiler as I just don't have the time anymore. Plan is to get it home and play with it as time allows instead of driving it in and out of the workshop every day for the next four years. (probably after a short visit to the electricians)

Yeah a mate owned it for a short time, think it was sold to someone who worked at Hammonds P&P. I remember after panel and paint it was for sale at $4500 which seemed expensive at the time, how times change.

Good story about "Mr X". Made me wonder if this was the car, it was repainted the same colour not long after this photo which would be 20 years old.

It is likely to be the tyres but the recent balancing seems to suggest not. I had a Mk 1 with a violent steering wobble once, so violent you could not hold onto the wheel, that was the bottom ball joints. Also had a brake wobble in an old Mk2 the was loose wheel bearings but you having done all that stuff already I'm sure you would have noticed excess play in them so discs is next best bet.

Just take it in as is then worry about possible problems, if rust has been repaired properly there will be no further dramas, it is only when it has failed for rust that you might need to prove correct repair was undertaken. The plate question I'm unsure of the procedure, just make them aware that you want to keep its original plates and go from there, from memory they issue new plates and then you swap them back to original plates later. Deregister your live but incorrect plates as fitting them would be illegal (I assume fraud even if you owned both cars). If you were to use them then a WOF from the local garage would suffice. (don't do this)

Can you get at the injector pipes easily? When you have time crack those and bleed it before a cold start, easy way to rule out air leaks if it then starts and runs easily. Not that familiar with the French diesels as mentioned they are normally solid but some of the Jap stuff get air in through a front seal on the pump and show similar symptoms until they won't start at all without a bleed.

I have a workshop near Hagley park, probably be able get the towbar off/gas off the nuts if they're fucked. Assuming rear shackle rubbers is what you have failed on? Edit: best to pm as I don't often read other projects. (And can only post/reply with phone)

1300's have no side plates is the simplest way. (one less place to leak oil) They also have different frost plugs, I consider them modern ones over saucer type ones. Gearbox I don't know how to identify them, ours has a standard housing with Allegro gear and needed some minor disc grinding work because the rods hit it.

Isn't that fog light button for rear fog lights? Mine is anyway. I believe on some Jap spec cars it is used to operate front fog lights individually from main headlights but I have never seen it, on my other Jap import one it is blanked.

Yeah it will mate, that widebody of mine has no chassis numbers at all, everything done from VIN. Similar to certing fresh imports, run them thru to get vin first.

Not mine, it is a mates and a Dodge. It is an orange racist car with 01 on the door. You are welcome to inspect it, its residing in Addington at present pm for an address.