DB8-TypeR

So the horn goes off all the time? The pin should be energized then when you press the button it connects to ground and completes the circuit. Is the button stuffed?

Is the starter solenoid engaging at the time?

I would like to pipe up and say I would really like to own any single one of your cars (let alone all of them), I have met you once when I borrowed a set of jumper leads off you at the 4 and Rota nats to get my Shuttle started (and was probably in too much of a rush to thank you properly) and have nothing but positive things to say about you. Please lower this car and post mean pics then do the exhaust, I will push the 'like' button

I dont know about this car but with Civic Type R the manual window mechanism weighs more than the electric (some EK9 were optioned without power anything, no recaro etc)

You wont look like a muppet, you will look like the euro version of this:

Yea they are rattly horrible things, but would tow your new boat great! And with a turbo haul along really well, in the work van you only really need to use 3rd-5th gear as it has enough torque to not really require the first couple. But yes wouldnt be my first choice for a triumph

Would a 3.0L diesel Hiace Van engine fit? (cheaper that 1KZ Turbo but could bolt on a turbo manifold for more oomph) they arnt exactly smooth but with a decent driveline behind it (not a Hiace one thats doing 3200rpm @100kp/h) it could go alright and would be great for towing

Some of The Honda Cup/SS2000 guys run FWD F20c as they feel it handles the high revs all day everyday better than the K i.e.

Oh and another I had forgotten about, finally a RX7 with a powerful, high reving motor....

This would be a hoot

A poor mans Aerial Atom as they had a K20

140kw is pretty decent. My B18c with intake, stock headers and mugen exhaust untuned made 130.5kw but would be down on torque compared to the K24 so less usable power (At the same dyno day a EP3 Type R with K20 that had mugen intake and exhaust made 131kw about 10mins after mine) Difference is b18 will run out of "cheap" power at 140kwish kseries still has a good 20kw up its sleeve

JTune in Auckland has done a lot of work with K24, just bolt ons and tuning this is one of their examples:

This one here even: http://nzhondas.com/build-threads/79066-deep-south-ek-k-build.html Pics are dead but heres a vid, car was sold then threw a rod out the block, has since been turned into a Honda Cup car

^ They do (my writing looks really small on this PC?) Usually what holds them back is that H22a Gearboxes are gay (long ratios), so you buy a H2B kit so you can fit a S80 Integra Type R gearbox (close ratio, but means it will be doing 4000+ RPM @100kp/h) and they come alive. i.e. pick up a $200 H22a from a wrecker, Bolt it to Bseries gearbox, fit intake/headers/exhaust, burn a chip for OBD1 ECU with a tune and have 150kw+ ATW. Then if it blows u buy another H22a for $200

To upgrade the brakes find some EF8/9 front uprights and 262mm discs will go straight on, will need EF8/9 tie rod ends for it to work

Since you like vans then I will swap you my Hiace workvan for your porsche, its only fair

I like that you have 2x porsche sitting in the background of 2x bedfords being worked on A contractor from around town here has a 71' (I think) Bedford with a 350 Chev, used to idle around the site I worked at with two massive exhausts exiting just in front of the rear wheels sounded cool as hell

Yep exactly. Earthing solves most

Being an instrument tech for last 4 years has ruined my electrical knowledge still if his so called high surface resistance is the best earth conductor its going to be a bit more than a tickle

Oh and if your claim about having a high "surface resistance" was even possible then it would have the opposite effect to what you describe. The voltage is a constant so the higher the resistance means the bigger the load. So if you got a shock the current would be higher and you even deader. Voltage doesnt mean shit, the current is what kills you

As an electrician I can say that if you are getting shocks then the appliance is not earthed. Electricity is lazy and takes easiest way to ground (path of negligible resistance). So if you get a zap its because you are that easy way. So earth the drill and check all earths back to the earth peg. The voltage is NOT being induced by the magnetic fields. Its a small motor with minimal load, it cant happen. The insulation resistance of the motor is probably low mixed with a poor earth. If you have wired the place (dont care if you wired you first at 15 as it doesnt mean its been done right just that you have been potentially doing it incorrectly for ages) then be sure polarity is correct everywhere, that maximum earth resistance is less than .5ohm and that you have continuity. An rcd probably wont even work if your wiring is incorrect.

Have you seen the grey one that is often between Kawerau and Whakatane? Seen it three times in the last 2 weeks

I would quite like a Manx style buggy, I think I know where one is that a guy is "going to fix up one day". Quite jealous of your purchase

Awesome drawing! Are your plans to live exclusivly in the truck or fit out the mezz of the shed as a loft?