Testament

yeah but you see, air cooling is total fail compared to direct water cooling. even if you use a radiator the water in your cooling circut is going to be way way hotter than sea/lake water.

i vote the sodomoite to be at the next os trackday with its 16 valves of sodom

nah not that I wouldnt appreciate help, it wouldnt be much use is all since everything is in about 10 different boxes and i only know what goes where from memory so im pretty much on my own for that. So whats a venue then? I had an offer to go to a pissup at a mates place but I dont really know if I can bring along a million boes there. so if theres a reasonable number should do our own thing I guess, if its only a few people keen might be able to crash mates place

will be up this weekend to put my lancia back together, anyone keen to have a few brews or something more ambitious on saturday night?

couple more bling bits M/C and alt. but also just looking at all the blingness already posted yet again

I still cant get over how bling/mint this is. wish the 131 was bling like that instead of being a collander

I think maybe this got lost? could you comment please UJ?

have you got some pics or serial numbers of the cossie turbo? some of these are T3/T4 turbos from the factory (similar to some grales) and will do 20psi and flow as much/more than the rb25 unit. Also as has been said, the RB25 turbos aren't supposed to be so bad at popping exhaust wheels like the RB20 units so you could probably run 1 bar or something anyway.

then then its all lighter so it doesnt need to be as strong... its a trade off

yeah it doesnt hurt to say that this is very cool UJ - the engine bay corner braces, is there anything on the other side of the firewall where they are welded on? some kind of plating or bracing perhaps? I'm tossing up between getting bars added to the rollcage in the 131 to tie in the front struts or to just do something like you have there. Do you know if theres any issues as far as MSNZ shit is concernded as far as putting chassis stiffening members like that?

pretty good progress man, what did you use for stripping/cleaning the chassis suspension bits? sandblaster?

Note: STA, Segedins Truck and Auto parts, are a different company to Segedins on Dominion road. Although they sell pretty similar stuff and can probably help you. Segendins/Autoquip on dominion road are weber dealers though, as well as v8 stuff, as I think STA are pretty much only V8 stuff.

from my experience and what I've seen in a number of workshops - hitachi is the goods you can get the basic 125mm model for $119

frikken choice man, sounds great, does good skids/nice driving

I dunno, does the pajero box have the transfer case built into the gearbox or separate? if its built in it would be a bit cabbage. What about an L200 or triton thing, some of the early 90's ones had v6's didnt they?

This is more or less true assuming you voltage regulator/battery system supplies a constant voltage. It depends on the age of the vehicle if the manufacturers do anything with the pump to reduce flow under different conditions. Flow through an orifice is related to pressure - i.e. flow through the injectors Flow though the regulator is related to flow through the injectors - the more goes out the injectors, the less goes through the regulator. huh ? pressure changes flow ...right so when your regulator changes the rail pressure...flow stays the same... i don't think so read what i said and understand it before you post it would also help if you understood a few more basics as well vacuum is related to engine load in a fuel circuit and vacuum controls the regulated presure so there is no way at all that you can have constant flow as the pressure is increased or decreased so many people with a opinion on things they have no idea on Ive never seen so many experts with no fucken clue Oh and look the guy thats wanted the help has made a hash of it surprise surprise Ok I cocked that up a bit, wasnt thinking about the fuel pressure rising with boost. Even so, I would definitely want the fuel pump to have headroom over injector flow even at the worst case maximum boost/100% duty cycle. But really if your using 20mm ID fuel rail, I would doubt you need to bother splitting the fuel rail unless you think your going to be making 1000hp or something ridiculous.

This is more or less true assuming you voltage regulator/battery system supplies a constant voltage. It depends on the age of the vehicle if the manufacturers do anything with the pump to reduce flow under different conditions. Flow through an orifice is related to pressure - i.e. flow through the injectors Flow though the regulator is related to flow through the injectors - the more goes out the injectors, the less goes through the regulator. Or just fuckit and get a Carb - be way cooler

X2 triple 40DCOE with 32 chokes would be tumeke

eddy currents? fuel is not really magnetic afaik?

wow this is looking very very tidy, defnitely want to see it in the flesh when its done

Fair enough. Probably by far best idea if you just want a good engine to roll with

Machine meke gudgeons from tool steel?

love it, more tiny crazy cars ftw. but please not the white walls

<100hp/L - bored out to 2.2L But still probably need revs >7500

do you know the following: -current bore size -maximum possible bore size -deck height (from crank centreline) -stroke -big end journal size -big end journal width (or standard rod bearing width) -standard rod length centre to centre -standard piston compression height -standard gudgeon pin size -Combustion chamber volume also do you know if the factory cranks have any special heat treatment e.g. nitriding?