Testament

this is also a crown or a criz? I'm getting confused

On springs and compomotives. no engine/gearbox/anything at all so riding mega high lol

the float bowl is definitely supposed to face forward. how much it matters is another question, it will probably mean you will be more likely to get float bowl surge/needle flutter under braking. If thats going to be an issue in the real world im not sure. also, funny you said weber specialties - thats a shop in auckland

48mm carbs? thats quite large, what size are the chokes?

ok take this with a pinch of salt, as I've never used a microtech - but I have never heard anything particularly good about them appart from occasionally on rotaries. I have also heard their support is crap as brad was saying. also what does the ecu come with? loom? sensors? do you know if it can interface with the OEM crank/cam position sensor system? this is one of the most critical parts really, if it cant I wouldnt really bother, find something that can. also, can it fire your ignition system? does the CA18DET run a distributor, 2 coils/wasted spark or 4 coils?

I usually finish work at 4pm - could meet up at Wairakei BP at 4pm as its right next to my work - but it sounds like you guys will be passing through earlier. hmmm I might see if I can get off early on friday if I put a couple of long days in during the week.

this weekend? I thought MG club were doing some big thing on the 15th-16th of november? dude at work gave me a big poster

It's going to cost much more than $500 unless you have access to tools, equipment and free materials etc.

yeah edges of waitkato are are screwy, like that map is probably like environment waikato or something, then in some other things taupo area is BOP, then in other thigns taupo area is king country. people cant make up their minds etc.

Been a while since the last update, making some good progess now but I dont have any pictures as I left my camera at a freinds place in auckland I found yet more rust in the drivers side sill and had to cut out some sections and welded patches in. quite a bit of gusseting and repairs to the driver side innner guard as ths has had some pretty average looking repairs in the past. some more gusseting to the inner guards and the firewall inside the engine bay to go and some plates to help tie the inner guards to the ! pillar as there is some rust that has weakened that area a bit also. And a bunch of smaller cosmetic rust holes to be filled in the passenger side floor and at the rear of the car. hopefully I will get all the finished this weekend and then I can start moving onto prep for painting. Really looking forward to getting the inner guards sewn up and por-15ed so i can put the front suspension in and have it rolling again!

you can only really go with under diff if the suspeion travel is small. i.e. the distance the exhaust is below the diff must be greater than the amount the diff drops at full suspension travel.

The Fiat/Lancia TC is pretty common, they made more or less the same motor for 30 years, regular service parts are available and not expensive. Tuning stuff may be a little more costly, e.g. cams but not ridiculously so. They are a pretty compact unit and easy enough to work on in my experience. That said I can understand going for a more modern motor, 16v etc. more power, newer motor for the same money probably.

Fiat Twin Cam

it's coming along pretty well! I don't think 150hp out of reach, it is 2L right? What cams are going in it?

yeah - twin cam doesnt neccesarily mean things are better (or worse) the original post i made was in jest a little bit - there is alot of discussion on pintos and the mythical 200hp ones, but it seems you really have to get things right to get anywhere even close to that. There are other comparable engines of the era which do it a little easier is what I'm saying. addmittedly not that useful a comment I guess. Anyways I'm not so sure about taking the guide boss out - the valve stem is still going to be there - so are you really gaining anything significant, and at what possible cost in reliability/longevity. I guess its a bit late now though I will be interested in how filling out the bottom of the port to get a bigger short side radius goes, the fiat twin cam has a similar downfall, the ports are pretty generous on the more performance oriented models but generally have a pretty poor SSR and because of this it's thought if you want to do a real trick porting job you want the head off one of the smaller capacity models as they have smaller ports which give more room to play with (everything else is the same valve size/water gallery locations etc.) allowing you to raise the port centreline and get a bigger SSR.

yeah that no.1 bearing looks pretty rugged. least it's done what its supposed to, to some degree, sacrificing the bearing material and saving the crank journal. Do you know if those engines typically have a bearing oiling problem on no. 1? definitely take out the crankshaft oilway plugs and clear out all the crap. if its not that I would be looking at the oilways in the block, its not uneard of for these to not be machined exactly as the should and one of the drillings only half meeting up with one of the other ones causing a restriction.

like you could make either layout flow 'x' CFM, but twin cam has some benefits in valve anges available to the designer. Twin cam also lets you have direct valve actuation (better for high rpm, less valve train componenets etc.) and different intake and exhaust valve angles (you can have sohc direct actuation but the vales have to all be in line). And as you say most twin cam heads were for higher spec/performance models - so they generally flow better to start with. when you start to port things to buggery it doesnt matter so much what you started with provided the casting is good/has enough meat in it. but conversly if your not going crazy you don't usually have to do so much to get enough flow for more mildly respectable outputs.

qouted for truth quoted quoted for for truth truth

oh men it is here now bananananananananananananananarama time

sorry I can't help myself any longer - what you really need for an 8 valve head: although admittedly at the end of the day its pretty hard to break 200hp with these too

also, somewhat off topic - but how about triflux stz. ???

the exhaust is coated in a carbon more or less straight away as well, whether its a mirror finish or as rough as guts.

what size is the bolt? is it broken off inside the hole? or is there a little bit sticking out? may need to crc the shit out of it and weld something onto the end to turn it with. if you can get someone to do it with the right rod (i forget the number but i can find out tomorrow at work) its like a nickel/stainless/hightensile rod so pretty much = ftw at welding to most steels/stainless steels. then hit the thing on the end to try and shock it and use heaps of crc and it should come out.

it's looking pretty reasonable, I say get the brakes fixed and then get warrent/reg and drive it around all summer. will be sweet.

I have a zoom magazine with a feature on a 13b 323 with that second setup using an sc14 and declutching. Supposedly it worked pretty well. the Delta S4 was setup intakte-> turbo->intercooler1->supercharger->intercooler2->engine But it had a bypass around the supercharger at higher engine speeds. The other one to look at is the hilmerson racing opel manta. That said what engine are we talking about in particular, and the really important thing is what vehicle is it going and and what is it going to be used for? Rallying is about the only form of motorsport where the twincharge setup has real benefits and even then you are probably better to spend your efforts on other areas of the car where you will get better gains. If its a "just because" project, thats cool and go ahead by all means, I just don't think its got any real benefits to a track car or a drag car where when you are racing you should be up in the powerband the whole time anyway - or you can afford to take a small hp hit and just run a supercharger on its own.