Testament

did you cut the bumpstops, add smaller ones, or remove them? the suspension needs to bottom out on the bumpstop and not the shock. if it bottoms out on the shock it will fuck out most shocks real quick. the shock needs to be short enough to make the spring captive and have enough compression travel remaining that you hit the bumpstops before bottoming out the shock or the aforementioned rooting will happen. cutting of springs is technically not legal for the road, so if you do that and the wof guy notices or your go for a cert it wont fly. Putting that aside (say we were talking about a track car) it depends on the spring seat design whether is an issue or not, some cars have spring ends finished natural which is the same as cut, some have the ends bent flat, some have the ends ground flat. basically is the end is natural it will be the same as cut and no issue, but if its flattened or ground then its not going to sit right and will likely cause you problems. no idea about what the setup in an escort is.

not sure exactly but I think the cam bore is maybe 40-45mm, std cams typically 8-10mm lift with around 10mm radius base circle? I think even the aftermarket cams once they go over about 11mm goto a smaller base circle. dont think I've seen any listed with more than 12mm lift.

hah was waiting for you to correct the terminology what about on a bucket/shim direct actuation setup. some people wang on about it on the fiat twincams that regrinds are rubbish because of making the vase circle small or something. I remember you did tell me that it wasnt a real deal or something/cant remember exactly why. I can kinda visulise that if you make the circle smaller the size of the bit dictating the acceleration part of the cam gets smaller and you would lose "resolution" in that section so it would make it would require more accuracy in the grinding process as the diameter/radius gets smaller since 0.1mm (or whatever yours +/- is) difference becomes a bigger % of the total. writing that just makes me think its rubbish full stop because that radius is going to be tiny anyway and the whole thing just goes whack whack valve you be open whack valve you be close.

just advised 1/2 of a bottle of jif was included in the rebirthing mixutre for good measure

if the base circle is really small and you grind more lift into it it fucks with the ramp profiles so they might be garbo in that sense. in which case the 6cyl would be in the same boat. but maybe with the 6cyl there are lots of aftermarket cams with the same base circle but larger nose. also possible two of the cams on the v12 might spin the opposite way if one cam is driven with a gear off the other.

my mate forgot to put oil in his for ages then we drove in it from taupo to managkion one day and it was ticking sooooo soooo bad. get back to taupo and check oil no oil oh lols put oil in got alot better. then he sprayed a whole can of degreaser in the rocker cover and wrung its neck real good, changed the oil. was munt after that. might have repeated the whole scenario a couple of times after that then sold it to some numpty at about 400,000km may have been a 4y y oh y etc.

LSD1 plz

I think the leaking issue has something to do with your engine having a big crack down the middle maybe?

link? dang perfect for tuning your undynoable drag monster by the sound of it.

I think RS do the GT101 or a similar flanged 1-bolt one too good thing is you will get it the next day more or less.

I found some tube on ebay to do exactly that a while ago to fit integrale evo bushes on my delta turbo. never fitted them but did obtain the tube and it was all gee. wasnt toooo expensive, maybe $30 for a foot of tube. expensive for tube I guess but you dont need much of it.

nice car dude, what are the plans long term? tidy up/slam/drive wheels off? these have a 10 bolt or a 12 bolt in the back of them? I'm guessing 10?

yeah 1.25" diameter .120" wall 4130 then weld in spuds to suit whatever size thread rod ends you use. in this case I went to 3/4 thread 3/4 rod ends then will bush down to a 5/8 bolt. I had to get some of the spuds from summit as I wanted ones with a hex on one end so you had something to wrench on rather than having to vicegrips the tube or something similarly bastardly when needing to make adjustments.

green with jelly tbh, how was the trip back? any google maps adventures? lold seeing this on pf forums too

fixed that, ready for crashing into mustangs starting boggling on how to do the upper 4 link mounts on the diff, copied some of sheepers trick that I saw he used on richies starlet diff to help with the locating the diff mounts but wont work completely as you can see the original fox body setup has a bushing pressed into a thingie on the diff and im changing to a rod end setup. still i can use it to help define the angle and distance apart. also was very lucky - I though I was going to have to pull the whole diff apart at this point because the diff breather location appeared to be right where the mount was going to have to go. but on further investigation the diff head is offset a little and it is just going to clear so that is a win. will still have to pull the thing apart to swap the center and check axle lengths to ensure they will engage in the e-locker centre properly (a wee birdie tells me it may be a little known toyota secret that the e-locker diffs have different length axles to the LSD axles for the locking collar to engage on) but also this diff has been shortened so who knows what might be hiding inside. also will be getting a disc brake conversion but that is also a later job at this point.

I think it is actually a requirement to have a reverse gear but mostly it sounds like chinese whispers and people getting confused I have no doubt the bosses want to reduce the instances of trucks reversing to an absolute minimum because thats the most common time for someone to get run over or for them to whack in to something. e.g. reverse parking rules are pretty common on many industrial sites these days and having to have a spotter for all reversing (although often the spotter is the one who is likely to get squashed ) and even for just moving big stuff around with forklifts in some places. someone has just taken that idea/or how that was expressed and jumped to the conclusion of removing reverse gear. which as yowzer points out is impractical.

Bus oil?

Finished building rear suspension tower/coil over mount/cage backstay mount thing also additional cage bar footplates that tie into the upper 4 link mounts Version 3 seat mounts to banger specication had a tidy up finally, found I had created mount makita funny thing is thats not even half of it, that much again was in the shop vac and half as much in my lungs probably so where it sits now, gangster mode engaged will call a guy about the cage tomorrow, hoping I can get someone local to do it who has done a drag car one before and has the 1 5/8 dies. worst case I will get the die and do it myself but would rather just pay money and have it done at this point time is critical. jobs for the coming week put mounts onto hilux diff replace this cheese rusted bit I cut off

Maybe a to4e of some description? Even just measure the turbine wheel where you can there. Armed with the wheel sizes and number of blades you should be able to figure it.

just leaving this here for inspiration

well yes, they are the common denominator

Oh lol, yeah Greg/64valiantbademmissionsguy showed me a screenshot he had taken of that couple of weeks ago but we couldnt find the post on facebook baby mustang beeeeoooooooooo its exactly the same car just a different front bumper/hood/wheelarchflares/rear lights should try to join the mustang club when I get it running see if they let it in now

Jeep with solid front axle and four link front suspension with more of less basic straight links - if aftermarket or custom suspension links are used does this require a cert from a 1D certifier or can a 1A/B/C guy check them off? being solid axle it doesn't effect bumpsteer/camber curves particularly much provided the link lengths are more or less the same and technically the links are not directly holding up the weight of the vehicle although they do of course transmit some decent acceleration/braking forces and the vehicle would fall down if they were not there.... i.e would they fall under #1 or #2 on this info sheet (presuming it is still a valid info sheet) http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2012_Custom_Suspension_Arm_Inspection_Approval.pdf I am thinking they should come under #1 and only need the 1A but depends on the precise definition of load bearing really

it's all about the integrals

not quite, it will "fill up" the pressure/density from both ends to some extent