Doritofu
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Thanks for the heads up. I'm liking that it was a reasonable price too, that's very nice to hear.
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Yeah, I sort of knew it was going to cost a metric butt-load more if I wanted to take the whole car in, and if I ended up not bothering with that then I would just send the driveshaft to Drive-inn or draveshaft NZ, that specialise in them, but I'm just worried that my engine is on a bit of a wonky angle. The engines got to have a 10° tilt to the right and I've pretty much got that sorted, but its the forward-back angle that I'm worried about, I measured it relative to the door sill at 2.4° leaning back side down. I've got to drop the whole engine and subframe a bit more by putting some spacers between the front subframe and the chassis for bonnet clearance, and I also think I have to push the transmission down a bit as its currently sitting 40mm higher than standard. I guess If I really measure it I could get it lined up pretty good on my own. I think I may be able to manage that, actually, thinking about it... I'll have to wait until after all that to get the driveshaft done though. But yeah, I am all in favour of saving money though, so now if anybody has extra tips on how to get an engine perfectly lined up at home, let me know.
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Awesome, glad to hear some good words about them, I've given them an email as well as a few other places. Thanks for the recommendation.
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- engine swap
- driveshaft
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Thanks, I never would have found them, they look pretty good. Cheers, Was the owner Brendan? I found a Trade Me account for convert-ltd and then a website convertmotorsports.co.nz, both run by a guy called Brendan. That's probably it eh?
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Hey guys and girls, So I'm working through an engine conversion on my S13 Silvia. I'm dropping an FJ20et out of the DR30 skyline into it and I've just about finished all I can do on my own. I'm looking for a workshop that could finish off my driveshaft but also if possible one that could re-make me a proper pair of engine brackets. I've roughly welded up a couple just to hold the engine in place while I work on the crossmember, sump, exhaust etc... but I don't really trust my welds enough yet and would like to get a pro to take care of the engine mount brackets. So basically, I'm asking if anybody knows of some workshops around Auckland that specialise in engine conversions and would be able to re-make my engine mount brackets and also fab me up a custom driveshaft. ( I have trust issues from the last place I had to make me an exhaust system so I need some good recommendations) Thanks for any help.
- 9 replies
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- engine swap
- driveshaft
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I'm really hoping that it isn't, but given some of the other stuff that came on this engine, I wouldn't be surprised. Thanks, just had a look through the interwebs and I found some places selling it as a T3/T4e 57 trim. Looking at the specs on one website it had the exact same setup, no water cooling, journal bearings, and an ar .82 devided turbine housing. Looks like we found it fellas. Good job team!
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Yeah I got you. I had a look through the whole catalogue, couldnt seem to find any with the same specs that didnt have water cooling. Could it be that the center piece isn't from a Garrett turbo and that it's been frankensteined from 2 different turbos?
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Thanks a whole bunch man. It's not water cooled, thats just the oil feed in the bottom 2 pictures. Oh I see what you mean, the GT3076R has a water line. I'll just have a rummage through the garret turbos.
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Kay so I just whipped the housing off and here are the measurements so 75.00 mm for the exducer and it looks like 56.65 mm for the inducer and here's some pics of the flange and the split that shows 0.84. Its got an HKS external wastegate btw. The bolts on the turbine housing look seized as all balls but I'll start soaking them in CRC. Thanks so far.
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Here's a picture that I already had, but like I siad, I can get more if you want.
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So I'm doing a rebuild of this engine, and now I've got this turbo off, checking to see whether it was alright. It seems fine but I have no clue what model it is. And no, there is no name plate so shut up Garrett website saying "simply read the name plate and find the turbo model." -it's not that simple. Both the compressor and the turbine housing have Garrett stamped on them. The compressor has the following markings on it: - M33 -AR.60 -B.C.C. And the turbine housing has .84 stamped on the inside of the split flange. And a single oil feed line w/ return I can post up some pictures if that would help but just thought I would quickly ask and see if anybody knows straight off the bat. and yes I have searched meticulously, I found 1 post with the exact same problem back in 2010 with no replies. So any help appreciated, thanks guys and girls.
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Large sig because is imporant, haha, but yeah, I'll probably get rid of it soon anyway. I was just planning on removing the entire injector w/ hosetail and then just putting a new piece of hose onto the fuel rail and clamping them to the tops of the rx-7 injectors. I've heard that it's a decent enough way to do it. Do you see any problems with that idea?
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Awesome, thanks bro. Now i can drill them all out and get this thing one step closer to running.
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So I've done my research and figured out that when building an FJ20, the best thing to do for low power is to get a set of S4 Rx-7 turbo injectors, but as is the case when building a car, they showed up and something's wrong. these pictures should illustrate: stock: new: and the hole that they have to fit into: so as you can see, the gap in the intake manifold is 9.8mm diameter, but the width of my new injectors is 10mm. Theres a counterbored hole above the 9.8mm one that the O-ring sits in, so what im thinking... Should it be fine for me to drill out the lower part of the hole to 10mm as long as i leave the top part the same so that the O-ring still fits? Cheers.
