Yowzer

To my knowledge there's not really anything that will bolt straight in (that's easily obtainable at least). If you have a 1300cc you can upgrade to a 1600 without any problems. It's not that big a job to stick some other form of rwd 4cyl engine in its place, custom engine mounts and gearbox crossmember aren't that big a deal. EFI is a different story however. A 4AGE with T50 g/box would be a pretty sweet conversion, or some form of Opel engine like Brads / Mikunis Chevette. There's plenty of small 4cyl engine options out there, it all depends on how much ya wanna spend and what sort of power you're after. Even just opening up the 1600 Hillman engine can give you a decently zippy car, ported head, twin Strombergs / quad bike carbs, raised compression and a cam regrind will give some good results.

Suck through supercharged setup, with more carbs. Lots more carbs.

Although your 1st design definitly isn't ideal for all out power, I doubt you'll hamper the engines performance with it. If you were worried about optimum design you wouldn't be dealing with a factory ECU anyway.

Do it properly and ya don't see anything anyway. Wires look yuck.

Ya still get losses over the length of the cable, so fatter wire, less loss Also, bitches love it when you tell them you're rockin' triple zero gauge

FishtailFred loves them. He seems to have vanished after his spat with Sheepers, but getting hold of him shouldn't be too much of a challenge. Facebook etc.

LVV certification is not required where the only modification is the removal of seats and/or seatbelts. However, a class change and a new load rating may be required in some cases.

Running 4gauge from alternator, 00 to the boot splitting into 2ga to the amps Yeah the PDX is mint, have not noticed any noise or quality issues at all. They have a newer model of them now as well. Gonna do a proper install over the next year or so, everything is just sitting there like a pile of crap.

Yeah bro

= 2000ish watts. Kinda overpowering the speakers at that stage

There is no way in fuck your pulling 1600 watts though, Id be impressed if you had 1000rms coming out of that. Can pull 140A at full noise quite happily. If ya wanna pic as proof I can plug it back in next time I go out to the shed

Sorry, 1600WRMS 1000WRMS @ 2ohm monoblock 150WRMS X 4 full range thing. Both alpine units, can't remember model codes. They'd kill the car with the factory alternator, but have never had an issue since. Headlights would pull another 400W before I threw in some HIDs

I'm rocking an 80A alternator in the crown with 2000W worth of amps, and don't have any issue with the battery dying. I did manage to kill the battery in under a year though..

Overrule LVVTA? Ha

Yeah, but they have different mounts from the MA supras.

Depending on how soon ya want an engine, I have a 5MGE in my crown that I will be replacing soon. It's a bit tired, burns a little bit of oil, but still runs sweet. Although the engine will bolt straight to factory engine mounts, and up to your current gearbox, there's still a lot of other things to take into account. Have a look at my build thread to get an idea of what you'll need to do. Because you already have a 5M in there, certain things will be easier ie factory throttle cable will probably still work, whereas I had to convert mine from linkage to cable, heater pipes may need to be rerouted, and then you have the wiring and fuel. At least you won't need to start from scratch with the wiring, but I don't know how interchangeable it is between the two engines so you may still need to mess around with that to get everything operational. Fortunately, you shouldn't have to touch the fuel system. Maybe upgrade the fuel pump just in case though. A general rule with engine conversions however, estimate how much you think it's gonna cost, then multiply by 4. Even for a straight "bolt in" job you'll find costs you never expected.\ Also, Got some spare front hubs?

I recommend the stationary full load cooling efficiency test, just to ensure it's it's gonna last in the long run

Yeah thought the same thing. I will be redoing the system in the future, as what's there at the mo was just a slapjob to get the car running. Rubber hose cabletied to factory fuel line is not really ideal.. Someone on here had a surge tank mounted under their car next to the fuel tank? I recall seeing a pic somewhere, can't remember if it was here or not. That's the setup I plan on going for.

Are you running rubber fuel lines or steel/copper? Copper to the engine, rubber return

In regards to fuel heating up, my surge tank does actually get pretty warm. Not sure if it's from the engine return or what, but I just assumed it was normal. Ideally ya do want a return at the top of the surge tank to main tank so it can pump any air out. Otherwise you will end up with air trapped in the surge tank

You've come this far, selling it now would be a mega loss

Criz sump has a mean as slope to fit the crossmember, with minimal baffles, so under heavy braking all the oil goes bye bye up the front of the block. Gonna wack some kinda trapdoor setup in it I think

Rubber hose to end of pickup? Anything stiff enough to not cave in on suction would be too stiff to flex sufficiently I'd imagine

Yeah, thought you were selling this? You better not be selling this, that would be the most epic fail so far

Main thing is to ensure oil cannot flow away from the pickup under cornering / braking / acceleration Otherwise, as long as it's not gonna get smashed on the road, it'll be sweet