Yowzer

I have found from experience that speaker rating pretty much means jack shit. If you plan on cranking the volume to ear bleeding levels then proper rated speakers are more important, but on a 55W amp just pick something you like that fits where you need them and you will be all good. Don't get tied up on figures. Something I do recommend doing though, is set your low pass filter to around 150hz (The amp should have a little tuning pot for this). This will cut off the low frequencies so you don't get shitty distorted clipping bass through speakers that can't handle it.

What about that stuff they coat tables in? Shouldn't be hard to get from some furniture making place?

Aside from the main battery wire, you should have 2 or 3 others. One goes to the alt light, the other is the power/sense wire for the regulator. If it's a 3 wire job, then there's one from ignition to turn the reg on and the other is the sense, usually permanent power on. Check to see if there's power getting to these wires, coz if not the voltage reg will be doing fuck all. If power is getting to them, then the reg is probably stuffed or (more likely) the bushes are worn out. I'd be quite surprised if the bushes were gone after 40,000miles though

I'm thinking hells yes.

Oh bummer.

Speaking of that parts car, do you have the blanking trim at the front corner of the front door windows? Where the wing mirrors would go if it had wing mirrors.

Should look even better with some chrome rings on there too. Gonna get some off ebay.

I need a better camera... Discussion thread here

Highly recommended to get better shocks if you lop the springs, coz your car tends to get a bit bouncy / what crustywhip said if you don't. Also, your shocks are probably fucked. Compressed springs a gay.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32843 Oh mean car, where'd ya get it? Looks identical to mine.

Burnouts.

Mk. More progress. Tyres fitted, wheels painted, wheels fitted. Bumpstops removed, shortened, and reinstalled. Door speakers fouled on the windows, which is why the drivers window shattered in the 1st place, so they were both removed. Fixed electric window switch on rear door. Sorted out most of the interior electrics Fixed water leak Removed "RUFF N RAW" sticker, installed Oldschool.co.nz sticker So there's a large amount of fuck all left to do. I'll snap some photos in the morning. The car needs a hell of a clean though. Gravel driveway + cats = very dirty car.

Yeah I only wrote the title. The rest is Keegans handwriting. If I wrote it all it'll look like someone scribbled all over the window. Springs are already cut, bumps however are not. Makes for a bouncy ride. Sticker says "RUFF N RAW"

So just because I need something to take to Nats, I bought this thing. The idea was to use it as a parts car for my MS65, as it has goodies such as larger / vented discs, rear disc brakes, 4speed trans, power steering and some other goodies I could transplant. However the car was in way too good a condition to wreck. So now we are working on getting it road legal. Quite a list.. So far we have replaced the alternator, replaced the drivers door window, repaired the right hand guard mirror, replaced the passenger door handle, fucked around with a portion of the electrics, wheels are currently getting painted + tyres, a new windscreen is hopefully on its way and bound to be some other things as well. It is still a while off completion, but the engine starts 1st pop, the trans seems to cooperate (on a very short drive around the block at least) and there's no unusual noises coming from anywhere. The paint should come up pretty bloody slick after a cut/polish. In the meantime, I haven't touched the other car in quite a while. Oh well.

The pumps have their own bypass in them so you don't need a return line anyway.

Looking through the Toyota list, it recommends the 020 for almost everything 2L and over. I have a 020 here if you wanna give it a whirl. I doubt I'm gonna be using it any time soon.

Pfft. They don't need return lines. I've always run them in the engine bay, never had a problem pulling the fuel from the tank. Maybe your fuel filter is too restrictive or something? Quite unlikely though.

I ran a 020 on my crown for awhile, that's a 2.6L I6. Never had an issue with it. Have a couple of 015s around as well but they were only on 1.6L engines. You wouldn't have any weird voltage drop at the pump?

TBH if I had the chance to paint my garage before filling it with too much crap, I would. Once the concrete has turned a dark grey / black colour it's all good, but prior to that every drop of oil that soaks into the fresh concrete kinda annoys you. Also, resale value. Clean floor = good. In saying that you probably aren't quite as careless when it comes to spilling oil / ATF / not tightening the oil filter properly etc

My pillow seems to have vanished at some stage too. I suspect it must also be in the lux.

http://www.por15.com/BASIC-KIT/productinfo/FABK1BE/

Por makes some floor paint that is apparently some hardcore shit. Doesn't require acid wash etc and all that shit It probably costs half a million though.

A tad more information. The yellow wire has 12V when the ign is on, the white one does not. The charge light is also on with no alternator plugged in.

Oh hello there I am somewhat clueless about alternators and all that. Anyway, I have a MS110 Crown which is lacking one. I have a whole pile of alternators lying around from various things, most being the normal nipondenso type ones. 3 wire plugs and batt terminal. SO The car has 2 wires, a white and a yellow (and then the main battery one). I suspect it originally had an internally regulated alternator, but I dunno. What wire goes where?