Roman

Awesome result! That's a hefty stack of power, and I admire your persistence to turn this around so quickly from the fault with the other engine. I'll buy you a pie for your efforts, top work Dave.

Agreed, I decide to use as much of my car as possible for my test bench. Cars fuel pump, cars fuel lines, cars fuel pressure regulator, cars injector wiring etc. When you look at injector deadtime, people will measure at say 60psi and then drop injector down to 6 volts etc. However in my car, below 8-9 volts the fuel pump cant keep up so the fuel pressure drops in conjunction with deadtime increasing, so you get even less flow. Although if I was measuring deadtimes through different pressures and had a fuel pressure sensor, then obviously you could work it that way too. But doing it that way meant I could have a simple volts/deadtime table.

This is awesome! I built a test bench to measure deadtime and build a compensation table for non linear portion of injector spray. However it was super ghetto compared to this haha.

I've got a datalog of it somewhere (Davelife) But it takes a good 10-15-20 seconds sort of thing to warm up, a 2-3 second prime I doubt it would even get to 100 degrees. The problem I was having was when I would sit there for 15 mins with key turned on, wideband steaming hot on a dead cold motor because I was fiddling around on the laptop or something.

Cant make it tonight guys, have a good one though!

At the Y will be fine, you actually dont want it too close to the head. An increased risk of air leaks ahead of sensor is the only major downside. I've burned through a few sensors for various reasons, the main advice re: widebands I can pass on is: 1. DO NOT LET WIDEBAND RUN WHILE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. This was #1 reason why I was blowing up sensors. The sensor gets to 700deg or so, and then first crank of the key blows this big woosh of cold air past it and cracks it. Better to have engine start first and then start the oxy sensor heater from then onwards. A previous good suggestion from someone here was to wire o2 sensor power to a relay that's triggered by your oil pressure light. 2. Do not run the engine with the wideband powered off / unheated. It clogs them up. 3. You need to mount it on a 90 degree angle to the pipe or preferably higher if there is space. So moisture doesnt condense on the sensor, from memory i think on a 45 degree angle to vertical orientation was best. This is more important than how close it is to the head.

Thanks, that will be a bit too far away though I think sorry.

Hi, Have a friend who's in a bit of a pickle and she needs some short term accomodation ASAP. Does anyone in Onehunga or surrounding areas have some temporary / short term accomodation on offer until she is able to find a new place? Disclaimer: I do not know this person amazingly well but she seems nice enough.

Okay so further to this! I asked around to see if anyone had a few different sets of coilover springs I could test with, I figured my front spring rate would currently be somewhere around 5.5-6kgmm. Nick from North Shore Toyota came through with a set of 7kg and 8kg springs. Sweet! So I pull the old springs out, keeping in mind that I found these under the neighbours house and had no idea on spring rate... Found a stamp that said 200lb (~3.5kg) haha! Jesus I am surprised the car has handled well at all running that spring rate, it's the same as what's in the back currently. So doubling the spring rate in the front might do some weird things for handling, but on the plus side it's given me some extra ride height and the stiffer rate will stop my sump from making sweet love to the asphalt. Keeping in mind that I'll be running R888s at next event and will need a bit more roll resistance it might be a good plan to stiffen up the rear a little too. I cant do this easily via main spring rate because I had to get custom made springs (at 3.5kgmm) however I've got a swaybar I can easily add. I wont add this for now, but the first round of superlap runs on both Saturday and Sunday. So I will have some 6kg springs on hand and the swaybar ready to fit up, if it's feeling too stiff in the front or too soft in the rear I'll have these ready to go for Sunday's event.

Have you ever stopped to think that maybe 300hp is enough?

Yeah its got the baffles in there. Do you seal up the sides of the baffles too? Seems like oil can somewhat slosh around the sides. But I guess it needs a way to get back to the centre so you can get too carried away with blocking it all up!

A FLIR E4 with some amendments Yeah! I think Diff temps probably arent actually tooooooo much of an issue with a live axle, as you've got this huge surface area of the diff housing to dissipate heat and lots of oil. I notice on the IRS diff heads though they always have cooling fins on them. But yes it will be interesting to measure as much stuff as I can while its hot, you dont know what's going to be interesting until you take a look! Going to R888s this time I'm a little concerned about possible oil surge issues but also my brakes are going to get a hammering. I reckon it would be easy to make a passive cooling system for a diff head where you use the crown wheel to flick oil into a gravity feed cooler that feeds back in at the bottom. Keep it simple etc. But if not needed you can keep it even simpler by not having one haha.

Nice one! I havent made much more progress as sometime after starting I moved house / split with mrs / etc. But I need to get my tyres swapped over onto those wheels in the next week or so, so I'll have street tyres in time for first Superlap event which is on 2nd December. Will put some more time in this weekend!

Getting ready for superlap / OS drags! Pulling out the passenger/rear seats equates to 40kg lost, since I'll not really be doing much with this car this summer apart from racing etc I figure I can live without that stuff for a while. In the interests of DaveScience I bought something fun to play with... Thermal imaging camera! (Before anyone says, yes, I do know this is a stupid waste of money compared to things that could make my car go faster, yada yada. But its fun so shaddup) Check out on the middle right hand side of the screen... That's a relay getting hot haha! The main car related reason I want this, apart from just doing nerdy stuff with it is so I can really quickly check tyre temps at trackdays, and decide if I need to raise/lower pressure or adjust camber etc. Previously I've been using an IR temp gun to measure 3 spots across each tyre which is a bit fiddly, and I've had to write down the results in a notebook otherwise I forget. However now, I've got an instantaneous record when I take a photo that I can review later. Awesome! I had a quick look at the tyres on the Echo after doorting around a bit, can see temperature differences across the tyre really well. Some other points of interest so far... My idea that the fuel rail bolts were heat soaking the fuel rail, and that it would be a good idea to insulate the rail and bolts? Seems to be legit! I this picture the fuel rail is the black part, you can see how much hotter the bolts and head are. Also it's interesting to look at the heat wrap on the exhaust, interesting to note such a variation in some spots compared to others. Considering that to the naked eye they look pretty uniformly wrapped. Cant wait to have a play with this at the next trackday I head to, when everything has really heated up properly. Can gather so much info in such a short amount of time which is cool/useful because temps can change pretty quickly in the pits. Especially since I'll be running R888s and will be trying to string the maximum amount of life out of a single set. It's also going to be really cool for looking at before/after changes to radiator ducting etc which is something I'm planning on. As coolant temps were creeping up last track day. Not gonna lie I'm pretty excited to go around taking temp photos of pretty much everything hahaha. Even just looking at clouds etc is pretty fascinating because they just look so different at this wavelength.

2T... or not 2T... that is the question... And the answer is that 2T can fuck off because 2JZ no shit

This is true but it's an absolute cunnyhole when you decide to change your wiring later on haha. Although most people dont like it, I like the split wrap loom stuff for a good compromise between not looking like a taped up mess but also being easily accessible later on to tinker with. Depends on how complex the loom gets I guess.

Yeah man bin it

Awww man sorry to hear about the motor... So close to epic dyno goodness! On the bright side I guess it's good that a non VVTI 1JZ head is probably the easiest to source out of all the turbo heads.

I clicked like for the improvements, but then clicked LIKE for the mspaint drawing

Have you been snorting swarf again Dave? I will be there (To the meet. not to do a line of swarf with Dave)

Hi all, I am moving house and the remaining members of my existing household are looking for a new flatmate. You'll have access to half of a double garage to store a car, which is always hard to find. Really nice place with two female flatmates who are good fun. Really close to motorway onramps, takes me ~25 mins to get to work in Penrose when leaving early in the morning. Some people here have visited my house for drinks etc and can attest to what it's like. Not really suited to someone who's going to make a racket at every hour of the day and have a dozen projects scattered around the place... But if you've got an older car that you need to keep out of the rain etc and want a nice place to live with some good people. This is the ticket! More details and pictures in the Trademe ad, would be $200 p/w if wanting the use of the Garage otherwise $180 p/w. You can contact me if you have any questions, but as I do not live there anymore it's probably best to contact current residents via the trademe ad. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1174983049&ed=true Thanks

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2016_Re-issue_of_3_Amended_LVV_Stds.pdf My car had the problem for cert where standard alignment is 1 degree positive! So had to run 0 deg to pass. However they've amended it to say you're allowed up to neg 1.5 deg if your standard alignment info is less than that.

Yeah I'm super keen for that S15 6th gear! In my case drops 105kph cruising rpm from 3600rpm to 3150 and still keep nice final drive and other gear ratios as-is. Watching with interest

I've got a few areas that need touching up. Also my paint work needs some repairs.

Haha I was waiting for that.