Roman

As a general rule though with Arduino IDE you dont need to specify anything in hex, if you just write "10" or a normal number it assumes you're using normal numbers There's a list of prefixes you can use here: https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/variables/constants/integerconstants/

When you put the "0X00" at the front, its telling the program that you are using hexidecimal. So "10" in hex is 0xA not 0x0010 or if you need to keep that format for the string maybe its 0x000A

What are you writing over serial to/from? Perhaps add some commenting at each part of your loop so you can see on the serial monitor what's happening / where it gets stuck?

I do lots of compares to last value to minimize writes to my screen. Every value i declare twice so store last value: Int RPM =0; Int RPM_old = 0; Then in code: If (RPM != RPM_old) [ *Stuff to do if value is different goes here* RPM_old = RPM; ]

What kind of powersupply are you using? LM7805? What I'd try do is isolate the two tasks, have the arduino running from the power from the car without doing anything connected to the ignition for starters. If that's stable, then you know its the ignition side of things causing problems. Otherwise, your powersupply from car needs some work. No idea how to troubleshoot either things though.

Half assed out loud thoughts... If you had an equal length 4 link that kept the diff nose angle steady, could you just mount a diffuser to a live axle? It wouldnt compress the suspension but it'd still push the wheels into the ground and always be same height above the track haha.

Def white engine bay i reckon.

Yeah it depends, sometimes if it something like a powerfc then it'll have specific things to work with specific OEM parts. For example you can use a 1ZZFE ECU on a redtop beams 3SGE engine, but you need to use the 1ZZ coilpacks or it doesnt work. As the return signal from the coilpacks is different. No such problem on a Link or Haltech etc, but again, sometimes they have bespoke options like the BEAN protocol thing to make the fuel gauge etc work in the Altezza plug and play. (A feature that the wire in ECUs dont have, so people actually bodge these into other Toyotas that would otherwise benefit from a wire in) TL;DR: It's a lot of work for not much benefit unless its a special case.

Thanks for taking time to put together the post(s) about engine assembly, very informative and interesting to read! Please do keep at it, Good Sir.

Thanks I'll check that out!

Yeah at the moment I've got a whole bunch of shit just thrown together in a housing as individual boards that I want to consolidate. 2 power supplies, teensy 3.6, an opto isolator board and some brightness controls. (LDR & a mosfet) I might try that and stick with the Teensy first and see if I can make a board that works without any unexpected headaches. Then put on big boy pants later on for STM32 stuff. It's just a bit daunting to start with I guess! Need to spend some time learning Eagle or similar.

When someone who isnt me posts a whole bunch of graphs on the internet Although stop labelling and scaling your axes, you're making me look bad

I've got to say though it looks great but there's a dizzying array of options. The dev board looks cool but doesnt quite do what I want, so next step designing my own PCB? eeekk That might be a bridge too far for me at this stage.

Anyone played with stm32? Considering further scope creeping my project into oblivion haha. Has some awesome graphics processing stuff which makes ui design a lot easier. And its shitloads faster and doesnt need a screen controller board which is my current speed bottleneck.

RPF1 are just so timeless. Light, strong, look cool. Cant go wrong

Just had a big catchup on this thread. This car is bloody awesome!

Yeah agree, especially if you're fighting VR voltages too. More the merrier!

Thats 500 cam rotations, not 500 times that a tooth swipes past the VR. You get 4x as many signals as that?

Tooth count mostly affects transients rather than steady state. IF your engine speed was exactly steady then you'd not need triggers at all once its going. Why do OEM have lots of teeth on triggers? Probably because transient conditions are by far by far the least controllable part of engine operation when it comes to emissions and economy. Also some ECUs do fancy stuff like look for minor accel/decel through the crank angle to spot misfire issues or as part of a knock detection strategy. Also I guess having fewer teeth makes it more of a problem at lower rpm than high, as you've got a much longer time period between engine speed "updates" Just doing some low effort maths, if you have a 4 tooth trigger on cam only, then at 1000rpm you're getting engine speed updates at 33hz. That seems less awful than I would have thought, unless my half arsed maths is wrong.

Something else ive figured out recently while trying to make a trip meter. I got caught up thinking that to convert hours into a smaller number you need to go minutes then seconds... but this is a problem because you need to divide by 60 so you get a remainder on your number that gets wiped so its less accurate when you're dicing up 50kph into 10hz snippets (or whatever) Instead of that. Figured out i could just use interrupts at 1000th of an hour (or whatever) so the value you end up with is only ever divided or multiplied by 10. So for example 50kph you might set your interrupt frequency so you get a number back saying you travelled 50cm in that time. Makes the maths super easy! Kinda like a metric version of time keeping haha.

One thing which has been a ball buster until i realised why. Any program that scans the com ports looking for a device fucks with any others doing the same. If i have arduino ide open i cant connect on pclink. And vice versa. Took a while to figure that out...

It might help to set the arming threshold/voltage for your VR a bit higher if there's a table for that in your ECU

So I got a new wideband and setup the fuel nicely for the new cam angles, and went for a bit of a drive out of town. I also had my new dash setup with a realtime economy gauge so you could see what's happening and adjust your behaviour to suit. Results from a ~2 hour drive from Auckland to Morrinsville: Pretty stoked with that! One of my goals has been to get it into the 6l/100 range but I thought I'd need the dual VVTI engine and the revised 6th gear ratio to acheive that. The mean cam angle value for the trip was just a shade under 20 degrees, when it was previously around 10. It's hard to say whether improvements came down to having the economy gauge of the cam angle changes but good results. So either way thats a win. Felt nice to drive in any case. Having that realtime gauge was great though, in some situations where you think you're better off going straight to 6th to keep the revs low you cut the fuel consumption in half by staying in 4th or whatever. Other situations the opposite. Seemed really counter intuitive but I think that'll stay on my dash screen for sure! One suprise is that the car is actually quite economical just trundling around the 50kph mark.

You need to run the voltage sense wire all the way on its own to the battery. Or otherwise diagnose it further. Buying a new battery isnt the fix here.

You're just being provocative, you know damn bloody well that half the forum here is named Dave