Roman

Hey thanks. Yes I've enjoyed that aspect of things so getting new ECU setup is tip of the iceberg. Once I've got the basics sorted the next thing I'm going to look at is setting up some lights controlled by various tables/logic in the ECU. For example, I can set a light on the dash that comes on if I'm at more than 25% throttle and air fuel ratio goes above 15:1 (With these two things adjustable to whatever suits) So if I'm tuning I can back off a lean spot without having to look at gauges, or if I'm at a trackday or whatever and having fuelling issues I can easily know about it without blowing up my engine. This is better than having an AFR gauge, because often you dont have time to look at a digital number flashing all over the show. And there's a decel ignition cut where when you back off the throttle it cuts off the injectors. So I want to exclude that condition from when the light would turn on, as it shows that it runs lean (it's meant to!) Or another example, I could use a combination of vehicle speed and engine bay temperature to trigger a fan, water sprayer, or something like that. Cant wait to get to that part! Although once my trigger issues are sorted the general tuning should be fun too.

Yeah I hope so! Well it worked with the factory ECU fine, right to 7400 limit. We checked with the dial gauge but also measured the gaps / angles and got them all bang on too. Being .1mm / .2mm out was enough to cause a problem, no way you could really get it good enough with just calipers or whatever.

What exactly are you doing with carbon? Sounds interesting. In other news I stripped another exhaust manifold thread yesterday, ffffuuuuuuu Stupid factory studs only go in... not very far compared to thread depth. I'd remade 3 out of threaded rod which go all the way in, but kept two standard ones... The two standard ones shit themselves.

Holy crap I'm tired today. Last night got all timing gear off, then had the crank angle trigger setup centrally in the lathe so we could check the teeth with a dial gauge. 3 of the teeth were actually too long by .2mm - It must have been the heat from welding the middle tooth caused problems for the other two. So now all of the teeth are exactly the same. If there are still problems, it can only be because the tooth now made from welding rod doesnt have the same metal properties etc compared to the others for the Reluctor. Since I was doing this I also yanked the exhaust manifold back off, all intake stuff off too. I Heat wrapped a coolant line under the intake manifold that's been heat soaking the inlet manifold. Used this stuff from Aliexpress, which seems to be way better than the fibreglass wrap: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-WRAP-HEAT-SHIELD-TURBOCHARGER-COVER-WRAP/1871678780.html I'll give it a few weeks on the waterline and see how it holds up, if it hasnt bukak'd itself all over my engine bay I might wrap the extractors to keep engine bay/alternator temps down. I got everything all back together last night, cambelt back on, radiator refilled etc etc - But it was 11pm by this stage and too late to wake the neighbours. So today after work, I should be able to know whether fettling the teeth has worked or not. Fingers crossed! I'm itching for 8000rpm already haha.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-WRAP-HEAT-SHIELD-TURBOCHARGER-COVER-WRAP/1871678780.html

Sounds like a mish to Zebra or pickas will be easiest way! Just going back to the heat wrap topic... Some rolls of aliexpress 'titanium' heat wrap turned up today, and I wrapped a coolant return line with it that was heat soaking my intake manifold. Holy shit it's good! So much better than fibreglass stuff that feels like it's going to discintegrate before you even finish fitting it. It's got a glossy kind of feel and appearance, and seems a bit tougher. Cuts nice with scissors and easy to wrap. Since this pipe gets to only 90-100 degrees I just used zip ties. I picked up that handy tip from the fabrication fail thread haha. A++, will reccomend if it lasts more than a few weeks haha.

Good news and bad news part deux Changing the arming voltage got the car idling sweet! Tuned the shit out of the ISCV and got the car idling really nice and starts up without any throttle. Woot! However... The crank tooth problem rears its head again at about 6000rpm. No way to fix it with the arming voltage / filter settings. I put the scope on it and the 'normal' teeth read about 18 volts but the bung tooth only reads about 6 and doesnt get any higher. Sadface. Even setting the threshold to 3v or whatever doesnt help, I think because it's such a big voltage drop from the other teeth. However after several iterations of driving around datalogging, pulling over, amending the map, etc etc I've pretty much got fuel at about 13:1 across the board at the moment which is a good start before fine tuning. Well, up to 6,000rpm at least. Heh. VVTI doesnt seem to be working either but I think i turned it off somehow when trying to get the car idling. Woops my bad haha.

Thanks Stu, appreciate the input. Will try it this afternoon and see how it goes! Looks as though I can get a crank trigger wheel for about $60 so I'll swap it over as well for peace of mind. But maybe not before trackday this coming monday, I've got enough other things to finish before then haha.

Oh cool thanks! Yeah it looks like the basemap values for mine would proably be fine if not for that tooth issue. But it's interesting to learn these things, and should be an easy fix so that's a win really! Do you have your filtering set higher than 1?

Dont have it handy but it was: 0000rpm- 0.3v 1000rpm- 4v 2000rpm- 6.3v 3000rpm- 6.3v 4000rpm- 6.3v 5000rpm- 6.3v 6000rpm- 6.3v 7000rpm - 6.3v So just going to lower those first two values as it's fine from there onwards.

Yeah I was cranking the engine a lot when I was trying to get master fuel sorted, and as battery was slowly getting flatter it seemed harder and harder to start. It was hard to tell whether I was heading in the right direction with the fuel table because I think the plugs were fouling so I couldnt tell much from the wideband. After recharging the battery it started a lot easier, and funnily enough the base maps master fuel table worked best lol. But still had that 1700rpm issue. I used a Toyota 3SFE Map sensor, it calibrated fine by using two known KPA/voltage values then calibrating against the onboard barometer.

Aaahhhhh good news and bad news: Good news: Got a wideband Boss welded into exhaust (Cheers Sentra Dave!) Got exhaust manifold thread fixed (Cheers Peter!) Got everything else wired up, and running nicely at about 2000rpm with nice fuel. Bad news: Welded the wideband boss in a place where there isnt much room under the car, had to aahhh 'massage' part of the gearbox crossmember to make it fit. The engine is fine at 2000rpm... fine at 1900... 1800... 1700... then cuts out. Try it again, same thing. And again and again. And when cranking, it would sometimes backfire out the intake. Weird. So I did some datalogging Just below 1700rpm cuts out because the rev limit cuts in... Because it thinks the motor is going 32,000rpm. Lol! Checked trigger error logs... lots of crank angle sensor errors. and all at that same rpm. Ran the onboard trigger scope, showed this: (look at the wonky/shorter wave near middle of the page on top graph) A long time ago I broke a tooth off the Crank pulley (Doh!) and couldnt find a replacement so had another one welded on and filed to shape. Well it looks like this might have been causing problems ever since, you can see that the wave on the graph gets a bit unsteady at a certain point. It happens at the same place each rotation. EDIT: Looks as though there's a software fix for this in the ECU, I'll try tomorrow! (Reducing arming voltage for the trigger at 0rpm and 1000rpm)

There's a Hammy Doon Trackday on the Monday next week (Auckland Anniversary) I'm paid in but I've got a shit tonne of things to do before then haha.

Hey Peter when people fit an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) sensor, they always find that when you run low ignition advance the EGTs go up. As you advance the timing more the EGTs go down. If your motor is running noticably hotter than when you had carbs it could be that the ignition needs to advance a bit more at low load / idle etc

Problem! I get ants in my pants when I've got nothing new to learn / am a bit short on hobbies currently. Also, I hate time and money. Solution! Buying a Link G4+ Xtreme and an LC2 wideband What wooouuullllddd have made sense for me to do next, considering my driving is a bit shabby and I havent done that many trackdays. Would have been to buy a set of semislicks and spend a bunch on trackday entry fees while summer is still here. However! That bloody 7400rpm rev limit was annoying the piss out of me, some parts of the 'tune' on factory ECU dont run so well on the slightly bigger injectors (like cold start) and there were still a few annoying spots where it seemed to run rough and I had no way to fix them. I was originally looking at a megasquirt, because they are cheap and looked to be able to achieve everything I wanted. But then I decided I'm probably not skilled enough to assemble one, and didnt really want to either. So then I looked at premade megasquirt kits... Bloody hell almost the price of a midrange Link anyway! So this train of thought escalated to the point where I figure that if I'm going to spend $$$ on an ECU, I dont want to buy something that then runs out of scope for what I want to achieve, and then regret not spending another couple hundred bucks. So opted for the fancy pants one with lots of inputs and outputs. I spent two nights wired up the engine loom to the Link, and double checking everything. Plugged it all back in, rather nervously... (Half expecting an engine bay fire or something) It fired up first pop! Super stoked that it could run fine, especially considering I dont have an oxygen sensor or MAP sensor connected yet. But all of the sensors register in the ECU and are working, so I'm pretty bloody well chuffed about that! I didnt have to do a single thing to get the crank or cam sensors, VVTI solenoid, coilpacks or anything working apart from wiring them in. Awesome. Tomorrows mission is to get the wideband fitted, find a 1 bar map sensor from something at Pick a Part, and tidy everything up. Oh yeah, and I'm booked in for a Trackday next Monday so I've got to hustle a bit to get this thing tuned too haha. I think I've learned enough from my time with datalogging the standard ECU to be able to give this a good shot at a decent tune myself. From my experience with the standard ECU behaviour it likes to run right to the limit of knock, both at cruising and lots of load. So I dont think I have to worry about shooting too far past minimum advance for Best Torque because knock seems to be the limiting factor to ignition advance instead. Although, I've datalogged a bunch of ignition behaviours from the standard ECU so I know what to start out with for timing under cruising / load / etc anyway. I'm just stoked that now I'm able to change everything, rather than smoke and mirrors to get the factory ECU to behave. This can also datalog 15 sensors at 40hz, rather than my factory ECU + OBD which could datalog 6 things per second in total. Huge difference! Looking forward to MOAR datalogging and most of all making some 8000rpm doort noises!

I've almost finished my loom for the link, yusss. Hopefully finished tonight with the wiring, except for wideband (need to figure out where to mount it / run wiring) and map sensor. (as I dont have one yet)\ But will hopefully be able to start on sensor checks and calibration ooooohhh exciting. So far I havent used a single thing from the 2nd ECU plug, and have a few left over on the first. So I've got a shit tonne of inputs and outputs left!

Beware that Hilux diff only has fairly average LSD options, unless you spend a fair bit. If you're planning to lock it though then go for gold! What ever you decide on though, do some thorough checks into what diff ratios and LSD options / disk brake options are available. And if these suit your car. It's a lot easier to make something work that's got factory disc brakes etc. If you do end up in the situation where you need to convert a drum rear to disc though, look for cars that have handbrakes built into the caliper to get calipers from. S13 Silvia, SW20 MR2, AE86, AE92, VW passat and a few other things are reasonable options for pinching handbraked disc calipers from, depending on how you need the cable orientation to be. Although these tend to give shitty handbrake strength so if you're wanting to E brake D1NZ all over the place then you might be better off with a diff that keeps drums on it, or has internal drum as well as disc rear.

How tricky is it to calibrate a map sensor to use with an ECU? I want a 1 bar map sensor, and there are zillions of these around (pretty much every NA car ever with MAP) Not keen to pay $200 for one if I can help it... Is it just a matter of finding voltage/pressure at each end of the scale? Link has an onboard barometer that apparently helps with MAP sensor calibration but I dont know how it works yet as I need the ECU plugged in for the tuning software thingy to tell me how the calibration works.

Regarding 02 sensor longevity - In the manual for my LC2 it says: Naturally Aspriated Daily Driver: -Calibrate before install of new sensor Calibrate new sensor again after 3 months of use Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, which ever comes first Which would seem to imply it's not unreasonable to expect it to last longer than that.

Is this a factory sensor on any type of car that anyone knows? http://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-fast-response-iat-sensor-turbo-na/

Thread bump! On new ECU there are Analogue inputs (0-5v) digital inputs, and temperature inputs. I understand analogue 0-5v and temperature ones, but what does digital input mean? Is that for something like a square wave signal from a crank angle sensor or something? I want to know what/how I could datalog some non engine parameters using those unused digital inputs, but before my imagination runs too wild I need to know what exactly it can or cannot do. I'm guessing any form of potentiometer is an Analogue signal. But anything like an ABS sensor isnt. Sound about right? If it's square wave or similar, counts as digital signal?

Today I learn: Peters car is an LFA You got the motor back together now?

Yeah it was the 8 injector drivers that were the main reason to get the Xtreme over the Storm. That and the extra inputs/outputs mean I can datalog a whole lot more about the car itself, not just the engine. When thinking about the price difference over the course of a year or two, it's not too much. But if I bought something that didnt have enough stuff for what I want, I'd probably end up wishing I just spent the extra couple hundred bucks.

Ahhh here we go... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diybob-breakout-adapter-nippondenso-122-pin-p-537.html A bit spend though for what it is I guess! Maybe butchering spare ECU is the way to go haha.

Cool yep, that's pretty much exactly the plan! But you can buy the same thing from somewhere without having to yank an ECU apart. I just forget where at the moment. But in my mind it's the best option - Toyota factory wiring is good, plugs are good, etc etc. So may as well keep as much of it as I can. It means I can design and assemble and test the loom out of the car, as it will only be ~300mm or so long if that, and all just goes between one thing and the other. Any wiring faults are contained within that area, rather than spread across the whole thing... And I dont have to change a single thing in the engine bay.