Unclejake

I may sound like a broken record and this does not answer your question but the best cooling aid I EVER fitted to my race car was an electric waterpump from Davies Craig and available from Repco.

That is a sensational link Boe. Strange they don't mention Pozidrive, square drive etc. though.

What suburb did you choose Boe?

You need a thin wall socket. Either buy one or turn the socket you have down in a lathe.

I don't know your motor at all so I can only speak genericly. There is most likely either a lip seal (round) or possibly a rope seal (two half rounds) that should keep the oil inside the cam cover. The seals go hard with time or just fail. If your PCV valve is blocked pressure can build up inside the engine and will find the weakest point - given that your engine was probably still cold when it started to leak oil I would expect your seal has just failed and the PCV has nothing to do with it. To fix the issue you must first be 100% certain where the oil is coming from. The cam belt could be tracking the oil from somewhere else. If it is just a lip seal a new seal will be something like $16 - and probably 45 minutes or so to fit. With luck the new seal can be fitted without removing the cam cover - if not then you had best allow for a cam cover gasket too. Regards,

Got a photo of the engine? Could just be a lip seal.

Looking choice. I was up your way in the weekend and kept an eye out for you but nah. Sick I guess. Had lunch at Mondos on Sunday by the Town Basin. Lots of 19 year old girls with bottle blonde hair.

Any news Durty?

You are probably refeering to Snow Hansen - trading as Kiwi Cams.

If you want a flywheel made I would recommend Collier Motor Engineers in Levin. $400 ish is about right - plus ring gear. You give them the crank and ring gear I guess. You never know - Rob Collier is a Jaguar fiend himeslef so he too may have something lying around - But call the Toy Shop first.

Flange - Have you had a sniff around the Toy Shop's spare parts bin?

^ Porn. Is that a Quartermaster V Drive clutch? Sexy and such a tiny moment of inertia

^ Flat head FTL. As an aside - you do all realise that flywheels weigh X many kgs for a reason I suppose. Regardless of the saftey factor excessive flywheel mass reduction = less driveability. 12lbs is as light as I would take a custom made steel flywheel on an 800kg car - but I am no expert in these things. If the car weighed 1,100kgs I would be thinking more like a 18 lb flywheel Peace

LOL... I can't believe Olie still runs that place. I knew him in about 1983 when he was building a hard out Model A race car. I was just a kid of course.............

Cable tie = to fasten the rubber dust boot that covers the brake pedal rod? Pert phones FTW Lol.

If you don't want to piss about with T connectors just blank off two of the ports. Chur cunt. Edit - I have not seen a PERT phone for about ten years! Double Edit - I re-read post #1 and you actually want four ports so whatever. I am a reatard but at least I am old.

I had a word to a Volvo Technician about your problem last night. The waterpump is driven off the cambelt and best practice is to change the pump at the same time as the belt but most techs will give the pump a spin and if the bearings feel good they don't bother as the pumps are a few dollars. It sounds like you have changed the waterpump already so that is good news. The other likely candidate is the cambelt tensioner - they are known to fail and loose tension suddenly on occasion but another issue can be the way they are tensioned when the belt is changed. The tension is done manually (by hand) and then locked off I think. A genuine Volvo belt comes with a small spacer that is inserted between the tensioner and it's ecentric cam (I think). The spacer serves to prevent the belt falling completely off if the tensioner fails. Now the bad news - they are an interference engine so it is extremely unlikely that you have not connected a valve with a piston. Sorry mate. Disclaimer: I was drunk when listening to the above and the prick telling me about it was drunk too so we could be full of shit.

Does the cambelt drive the waterpump too? If so the pump might have siezed causing the belt to shred and you possibly don't have any comback

^ LOL. I guess it would be better if I have put the driven plate in before I took the photo. Normal Cortina clucth is 7 1/2 inches I think. That one is 5 1/2 inches

Mk1 Cortina billet steel flywheel and baby clutch FTW.

Yup. What he said ^

I would feel better about using a single bit of strap alloy/steel with two holes drilled in it as a spacer (assumes you want to move the caliper toward the strut). How off centre is it? It doesn't really matter so long as it is not a huge difference and the pads fit/pistons don't fall out etc.

I reckon it is something to do with the engine for sure

^ Those look very close but the shoulder on the ones I want to find new is a bit bigger I think. It is the shoulder that locates the rotor onto the hub. I think I might re-tap the female threads on the hubs in order to go to a slightly bigger bolt diameter (probably metric). Then I will cut new male threads on the new bolts to shorten the unthreaded shoulder length. Thanks for looking and the great photos Davidian.

Couple of questions for you boe: 1) Two stroke? 2) Single carb per cylinder with no vacuum balance bar? 3) If it is a two stroke does it use Reids (sp) or some other induction pulse control (like a rotary valve thingee that I can't remember the name of)?