Unclejake

I sent the Willwood pedal box out of a spare Mk1 two door Cortina race car to Les Hunter Race Brakes in Christchurch last week. It came back to me yesterday. Three brand new master cylinders, two new wheel cylinders, modifications to the balance bar, two or three phone calls to me on my mobile, a personal letter advising me of how to set things up, a three page hand drawn diagram of how to set other thgings up and a bunch of other recomendations. Total invoice including frieght and GST = $375. Les Hunter from Christchurch rules. Amen.

^ I still have them but am thinking about a move to Bilstiens. I have not had the lastes issues quoted yet.

I can't agree with you there. I have had three different problems with Koni Yellows lately. This months issue is that the adjusters have simply seized. A few months ago one of mine started randomly changing rebound resistance. A few months beofe another one was grabbing on compression - back to Stocks with them but every time they need to cutt the bloodu things open and often they aren't worth fixing.

Koni yellows are at least adjustbale for re-bound dampening - but they are bloody unrealiable IMHO

^ about $400 from memory - but I spent another $110 or so on a theromstatic switch for it incase I forget to switch the EWP on. I used a Davies Craig pump - you can but them from Repco and they are AWSOME!!!!! (in my tiny opinion of course). I have 60 or 80 litres of coolant circulating per minute (I forget which) - regardless of engine revs. It also meant that I could hack off the mechanical waterpump and fan - giving more room for electric fans. I was not running an alternator when I first put the EWP on so I had no belts at all of the front crank pulley.

^ I fond a photo of the cam drive and put it in the project section for you

Added a photo of the Mercedes Cam drive for Blakamin

^ You poor cunt. Hell Pizza must get a bashing

He did - but it appears he is out of jail again. I know his nephew vaugley - a strange but clever lad. Uncle Ben Hana on the other had is just a PITA (IMHO). Stunning day here right now - but I am at work and had better actually do some instead of spamming

Ha! Blanket Man was hanging outside StarMart on Tory St when I left the pub last night (I was across the road from you at Shooters). I havn't seen him sitting exactly there before. I didn't see this thread until now or else I would have poped in to be a pain in the arse.

Completely agree. An electric fan does almost nothing toward cooling the radiator at road speeds above 40 kmph. The best cooling aid I did on my pushrod Cortina was fitting an electric waterpump. Aws etc..

^ Lol A Paxton belt driven blower would be a relatively easy thing to do to the Mercedes motor. The trick would be managing the presure inside the Zeniths - especially the vacuum operated secondarys - they might just blow open. The Paxtons were a blow through design and not realy very good - but it would be fun. The steel air filter assembly on top of the Zeniths would be a good starting point for the high presure chamber. You would need to ensure that the big O rings on top of the carbs (that seal the air filter) were not stretched and you would need to block off the PCV pipe - apart from that and physical space it would probably work. Belt clearnces on those engines are tight so the radiato is going to have to go forward and below the slam panel I guess.

Strangely - while not being drawn to Japanese vehicles at all - I would consider it 'wrong' to fit just about any English/Australian/American engine to a Japanese car. It just doesn't feel right to me. Hiffing a Japanese twincam turbo into an Escort or Cortina on the other had makes PERFECT sense (not that I have ever done it). Cheap, powerfull and really well built. BDA engines are worth moonbeams now, YB Cosworth may be heading in the same direction I guess. Ford based Lotus motors are dropping in value a little bit. My age has something to do with taste I guess - when we were boy racers no one could afford a Japanese car. There were about two guys in town with Datsun 240KGTs - near God like. The rest of us had to put up with Cortinas, Vivas, Escorts, Valiants etc. etc. I have an 18 year old daughter - and NO she is NOT coming to the NATS

Chur boe - and agreed regarding a few clues etc.. V8Pete - I have never seen a flywheel lightened by removing material off the friction surface - although I guess folks possibly do it. It would mess up the release bearing geometry too. You have a strange thing going on there

We did a race motor a couple of months back that had similar issues. The previous owner kept breaking clutch plates and replacing them with flash as four puck custom made jobs. A two second look showed witness marks on the flywheel bolts - when the driven plate friction lining was slightly worn the springs would foul and the centre would tear out of the thing. There was easily enough material left in that particular flywheel to machine 2mm out of the centre of the flywheel to move the bolts away from the driven plate. If you do go down that path it would be wise to check some other flywheels or get some advice as of course it is weakened. Then you possibly need to shorten the flywheel bolts as they might bottom out inside the crank. ............... or just buy Cam's car

Normally turn the driven plate the correct way around!

I don't know much about Pintos (or what a 205 block is) but I use Hillam Hunter clutches on the race car. They bolt right up to a Crossflow or Pre-crossflow flywheel and they handle way more power than the standard Ford clutches. The driven plate would be wrong spline for a Pinto gearbox but. I feed mine circa 160hp.

^ What motor was that? Edit - what motor is in bits that was so cheap

Bloke in Giesen Road who operates as Motorvation Engines. He works from home

[quote="Methodz100 Was that through Summit engineering? They dont do it anymore. Pity. Twas Summit. I did not know that the no-longer have the gear. Who is doing it now?

Tony Marsh (Marsh Motorsport) and Bob Homewood (Hitek now I think) are also worth considering - but I am not actually recommending either of them as I have not personally spent my money there. If you want head work done you MUST choose a dude that has a flowbench. I send all my balancing work to Collier Motor Engineers in Levin. Line honing I have done in Rotorua. Head work in Fielding. Brake work Christchurch etc. etc. etc.,

Beer is good. I paid a guy to enhance a M180 (2200cc motor from a Fintail) but it is not tuned properly yet. There is not much to see but we can take a gander at the vernier drive camshaft (I have a photo somewhere) There is room for the Webers I think but any decent power out of a Merc motor will need force feeding. I toyed with fitting a Paxton supercharger to the W111 but couldn't be bothered in the end. I am certain the engines are strong enough to take the punishment. If you used a fuel injected head with carbs there would also be nice wee threaded holes in each inlet port ............. probably about the right size for Nitrous Oxide port injectors

The carbs you have on the M114 are a dog - terrible things and almost impossible to get parts for. FTW I would be crafting some side draft Webers on a custom manifold. Also make a vernier cam drive as the camshafts on those motors are quite advanced in their timing. A cam from a carbed 280 has more lift I believe........... and they are well cheap

I am surprised that the hinges don't unbolt but still all is not lost - it just makes this a bit harder. The doors need to be removed from the hinges and the pins drifted out. Then if they are really bad you would ream out the hinge to the next size up pin. Either purchase suitable steel and ream out the hinges to that or if there is not enough material left in the hinge to go to a standard pin diameter have the new pins turned down in a lathe. If the play is not mega bad then forget about the reaming and take a good look at the pins. If the pins themselves are worn then replacing just the pins may be enough - if you are REALLY lucky you might get away with just rotating the pins you have 90 degrees in the hinge. A Mk2 Escort Estate is not an old car and does not have particularly heavy doors so make certian that something isn't just loose before you go to the trouble of replacing pins. Cheers and good luck

What type of car?