Spencer

Yeah someone in NZ probably has it all the brackets on the shelf for a 64. Looks like they have all the fancy new accuair tank/valve combos which look amazing.

Oh weld on front shock perches with that kit, but that is super basic with the supplied parts. And the reason for no shockwaves (even though they are cool) is only from second hand experience. They have less travel and hold less air so not as good of a ride. Also puts all the weight of the car on the shock mounts, which is not the end of the world but kinda lame. I have their shocks in my wagon (on springs) they use custom fox racing shocks and they are amazing, dialed right in for the car they are supplied for.

Yeah this thread isn't really coherent and good for advice, didn't make sense your other thread was closed. Anyway, just buy a ride tech kit. Avoid the shockwaves (shock and bag combo unit) and it is all pretty much bolt in with some slight mods to spring cup and maybe rear perch. Look at the instructions for the link below for how it will bolt together. You can buy all these parts separate etc, they also have a automagic controller that self levels, their one or the accuair ones are dope. https://www.ridetech.com/products/suspension-packages/product-3298/ So get the bolt in kit with fancy controller is my vote, pay the $$ up front and just bang it in and done forever.

Glad you got this sorted man, was sad panda when I seen it had died straight away. Google says people use a $50 aliexpress device to get codes and reset shit on these porches. Worth a look. There’s really not that many things to go wrong and give you the issue, just takes ages to actually work through a process and find the cause vs pray and spray with new parts.

The red is great man, put it back together.

Yup 10amp plug with a short 15amp extension filed down all day. Realistically you will be spot welding like 99% of the time doing panel work. That little inverter for $450 looks like a good starting point for sure.

Oh and a inverter MIG of a decentish brand will hold its value if you need to get rid of it. The reason they never are for sale second hand is they move fast, usually your friend will want to buy it before you can list it.

OS goes through the welder yarn a lot. MIG is 100% the way to start out for fucking around on cars it’s easy and cheap to get going. You can start with a cheaper unit if that is your price point, but IMO just jump to around the $1000 mark and you can get a inverter MIG which are super lush to use. Yes you get the extra TIG functionality but most likely you will never be bothered to have two gas bottles to fuck around with it. The actual bonus is how lush these cheap inverter units lay down weld, it’s just better than a sub $1000 traditional setup. Usually you get finer control also. There is nothing extra to fuck out, there is no extra complexity to add the TIG and ARC functionally it’s just a bonus due to having the inverter deliver the juice. It’s literally a extra plug on the front and the torches will sit in the draw gathering dust while you MIG shit together all day.

Sweet car man, also good work on going straight to air ride. Those kits are legit.

This is a fucking lush wagon, digging that metallic brown paint. The 3m wood-grain is super expensive and is weird, now days its made for the interior of buildings not cars (I got fuck loads of samples for my wag). Although you only need a small bit so it may work for you. If you know a good sign writer with a good high res woodgrain image then that would be a easier option maybe. There is one super cheap off the shelf wood grain vynil in the world here at JC Whitney, only one colour option though and its a 20ft roll haha. Only $67 USD though, its good shit. http://www.jcwhitney.com/details/Univ/Spartan/Decal/SPA9930020.html#plpslot5

Thats a open ended question I guess. Depends on what you want to spend and how much you think there is differences between the major brands? Some people want to stick to a paint system so will buy all PPG or similar known brand products, at least you know they are all recommended to function together. I used PPG on one of my first cars ( I have only painted ~5 cars, hardly a expert) because I knew nothing and it was a known brand of paint (cost me a fortune in Taupo also), it was good shit. Now in Australia I bought a couple brands but stuck to Protec because it was cheap, honestly I cannot tell the difference in quality. You would have to paint two cars and leave them in the sun for 15-20 years to see which is better. Basically any major brand of 2 part epoxy primer designed for automotive use should be most peoples go-to for everything on bare metal. There a a million variants, some industrial "rust protection" ones with zinc, marine ones are more weather resistant but probably shit to sand. The Protec epotec? was a happy medium, you could do a quick block on it no problem, it had great adhesion and price, 4L for $100. Its probably more now, last lot I got was 3 years ago, no project life.

Yeah as far as cans go that stuff isn't bad. I painted some outdoor furniture with it and its holding up. It all depends on how much effort and how long you want the paint to last with cars. Its a cunt of job usually to clean things up for paint so why put garbage on there. Unless its to flick it then its a different story.

Yeah 2 part epoxy does all the things POR-15 says and it actually sticks to things. Its just made by proper paint companies who sell their shit to actual professionals so they cannot make such outrageous claims, they just stick to the script and say clean your steel before paint etc. Only downside is its not as durable and easy to clean as a 2 part urethane top coat but it wins 10x for adhesion. Hence why epoxy primer and urethane top coat is the modern paint technology of choice and pretty much as cheap as anything else if you shop around, especially for plain old industrial spec black for under body etc. Just wear a mask and do it outside. Does a better job than weld through primer in a can also if you let it set properly. I sound like a 2 part paint salesman again.

Yeah depends on the current surface, say no to POR15 its just marketing BS.

4M lyfe.

Should be legit.

Cast shit will melt and dissolve quickly in mild acid baths also.

Just a heads up, you shouldn’t acid bath hardened steel parts I’m pretty sure. Obviously depends a lot on what hardened means but it can make shit go brittle and fall apart. Best used for panels and trim and quick surface cleaning. Soaking some mechanical parts is dangerous IMO, I tested a bunch of things around the shed and springs crumble and will snap after a good acid bath. High tensile bolts go real black and weird after soaking for awhile. It’s hydrogen embrittlement or something, people argue about it on the internet but something bad goes on with hard steel in acid baths.

I'm back again for 3 weeks this year, wife hasn't been so going on the cheap around Cali and dip into Vegas for some more buffalo. After that I'm not going again until its a crew of old geezers doing a decent cross country roadtrip.

At least you can get recreational weed in LA now, worth the flight for some cheeba chews.

I can forward them if needed, I live by a post shop. They look heavy though so probably a couple hundy to get them over the ditch or maybe even at the weight limit of shitty AU post so have to send with DHL or similar. Have you checked rockauto?

Its just personal and a time thing man I only learned tips off a slow old resto guy and never worked in a production line, i know what you are saying though. For me too much DA = lots of heat which is no fun if you make things go bendy especially on a roof.

I am guessing "worm" means he has pitting which you sometimes cant DA down without thinning the metal? Its standard practice to spot treat pitting with acid IMO, the acid and rust is neutralized and gone once you wash with water and then hand sand it clean. Should just be steel left. Probably should have done the roof first though, top down.

I just use the acid. Once you use acid a bunch you will see that it only takes the top skin off the rust unless you can keep the part wet or soaked for a very long time. For surface applications this is usually impractical so instead you do multiple actions, apply acid and wash off (apply with some scotch brite to bite into the rust and move it around). If you use any of those "converter" products you are basically treating the surface and sealing it up at the same time, usually those single stage primers have shit adhesion (ie you can scratch it off because its stuck to some shitty dusty rust stuff) so fuck putting expensive paint system on top of ANY single stage product, I have seen that stuff make the paint on top flake/chip off easily eventually. Basically don't put anything but 2k epoxy primer on steel (bog can be the exception here) and make sure that steel is roughed up clean and white, I will DA (or hand sand) then polish it down with rough scotch brite by hand then clean it 5+ times with solvent until the rag is clean as fuck, then paint. Oh the acid at bunnings is called Ranex.

Acid is what you use to treat rust, there is a scale of acid types and strengths obviously. You can use vinegar or even better go buy some phosphoric acid from bunnings. Apply and wait, then wash off with water, then DA it to bright white clean steel and clean before paint.