sheepers

oh man, you thought owning an Alfa was bad. welcome to a world of never ending face palm. and you plan to daily this? im wishing you every success but shit man, this thing is gonna be a world of hurt. history doesn't shine to kindly on this car and its brethren. from the many many hours ive spent working on the other products that british leyland had to offer i can only offer you my condolences. sheepers. (the negative grumpy old bastard)

yep, good lols had here.

got a new drive shaft made. it required a different centre bearing so i had to make new mounts on the floor for the new bearing. while i was at it i made the hump in the trans tunnel a bit higher because the diff used to hit the floor during large road hole/bump type shit. its the bit under the back seat so ill cut a bit out of the seat to clear it. also put a new set of plugs in it (first set in 6 years) and its feeling a bit healthier but its still got a bit of a miss under full boost. will have to look into this further. ive found a bloke who can provide me with the 1" wider outer shells for my rear wheels. 250$ each and 6 weeks. im pretty keen to get these so ill sort this out next week i reckon. ive finished work for the year so nest week is going to be all about getting the car straight again. sheepers.

i would grind a chamfer right around the edge so there is no stress concentration point if, A) you absolutely can not get another one, and the depth of the chamfer required will not effect the operation of the cam. otherwise, replace it. i refuse to believe a bucket for such a common engine is unobtainable. sheepers.

electroless nickel is a good alternative, except it exactly replicates the surface its going on (so you have to polish as with chroming, or you can bead blast for satin finish) in the long run its about same as chrome, sept it wont go rusty and its as hard as nails. if your part is made up of different metals and coatings (like headlight buckets with some bits galv and a couple of copper earth tags) then no problem, deals with all this. yet to try cheap old school cast alloy but supposedly no problem.

redline make a specific LSD oil. its what I'm running in my RA23 (which has the same LSD in it as you are using) no complaints so far.

id use the search function. and id check the throttle pump.

love it. looks like the panel and paint has been done to a pretty high standard, in fact, it looks like everything has been done to a high standard. keep updating your project thread, im keen to see this car back on the road. sheepers.

yep, ^^^ thats been mentioned before, in the "tradesmen who dont suck" thread, or something along those lines. the guys at carb specials (CSL) are fucking good at what they do, they dont talk themselves up, they just get on with it, and they will give your car a once over after you've re-fitted the carb to make sure spark and shit is working correctly. i reckon they charge a fair price, are happy to help you with shit that might not have anything to do with your carb, and are genuinely interested in old shit. good blokes.

yea do that, thats how they were made by ford in the factory

steve how many times do you have to be proved wrong and look even more like a fuckwit (if thats possible) before you realize that you don't have a fucking clue what your talking about. Ive seen photos of your work, and all i can say is this, anyone who produces work that looks like a fucking abortion should be treated with a pretty big grain of salt. they dont make salt in big enough chunks to deal with your work. you're an idiot.

once again, what you have written is complete bullshit. studs require far less torque to achieve the same clamping force, they put less stress on the threaded hole. there are plenty of reasons why you could use one over the other, but none of them have anything to do with what you said. try at least once to present your thoughts as just that, you thoughts, cauz what you say has got fuck all to do with facts. sheepers.

Doesn't matter so much for turbo car though? You see those drag cars etc that don't even have an exhaust off the turbo. yes it does. drag cars have fuck all to do with a "usable" engine. they do their job very well, but put those engines in a street car and you will soon learn that exhaust sizing on a turbro is very important. sheepers.

send me a PM man and we'll sort something out. sheepers.

before you try any of that, hold a very large heavy piece of metal, like a dumpy hammer, against one side of the ball joint arm thingo. hit the other side very hard with another large heavy hammer. what happens is it tries to ovalise the hole momentarily and the taper on the ball joint shaft lets go. this method has worked since they invented tapered ball joint shafts.... hit it maybe 5 times then hit the ball joint shaft to see if its come loose, repeat this process until it comes out, it will come out. sheepers.

yes. i went up in size considerably from stock supra (JZA70) to R32 GTR and it made a noticeable difference.

i can weld it for you, but i cant machine it afterwards. (like i usually do) i dont have access to a lathe big enough to spin a 17" rim, but if push comes to shove i can ask around. PM me if you want me to do it. i'll charge you about 50$ just to weld it, 100$ if you want me to machine and polish it too. let me know.

have a look on the LVSA website or talk to your/any engineer. but dont waste your time asking a bunch of idiots like us, if you went on advice from the interwebs youd be screwed.

made in England?

i cant come to this one sorry. have a good time you crazy kids.

what is a set of arrow wheels worth?? i have a real soft spot for things made in New Zealand, its my thing that i do. quite keen on this option really..............

there is only one mans vision that matters when it comes to steels on my celica and thats mine. NO!

ask spencer? he had a couple of sedans. ive got a few random bits of trim for the 75's and thats about it, apart from steering wheels. you sure i couldn't interest you in a steering wheel???

Beatty's driveshafts are in fairfax ave. they pretty good at what they do. cant help you with anyone mad enough to weld a fresh tank though....

i forgot to mention, my half shafts are made and are at heat treating. and Ive started looking for wheels. i want to run 16"s but the lack of tyres and available rims (ie those with dish) is pushing me toward 17"s. i really like the looks of Steve's car in auz with the 8"s on the front and the 9"s on the back and i would copy this exactly if i can. this, but yea, suggestions on wheels? pics of said suggestions??? ive said it before but ill say it again, i cant fit anything smaller than 16" over the brakes so not much point in saying "widened 13" steelies bro" because that ain't gonna happen. discuss here, viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10653