sheepers

i would grind a chamfer right around the edge so there is no stress concentration point if, A) you absolutely can not get another one, and the depth of the chamfer required will not effect the operation of the cam. otherwise, replace it. i refuse to believe a bucket for such a common engine is unobtainable. sheepers.

electroless nickel is a good alternative, except it exactly replicates the surface its going on (so you have to polish as with chroming, or you can bead blast for satin finish) in the long run its about same as chrome, sept it wont go rusty and its as hard as nails. if your part is made up of different metals and coatings (like headlight buckets with some bits galv and a couple of copper earth tags) then no problem, deals with all this. yet to try cheap old school cast alloy but supposedly no problem.

redline make a specific LSD oil. its what I'm running in my RA23 (which has the same LSD in it as you are using) no complaints so far.

id use the search function. and id check the throttle pump.

love it. looks like the panel and paint has been done to a pretty high standard, in fact, it looks like everything has been done to a high standard. keep updating your project thread, im keen to see this car back on the road. sheepers.

yep, ^^^ thats been mentioned before, in the "tradesmen who dont suck" thread, or something along those lines. the guys at carb specials (CSL) are fucking good at what they do, they dont talk themselves up, they just get on with it, and they will give your car a once over after you've re-fitted the carb to make sure spark and shit is working correctly. i reckon they charge a fair price, are happy to help you with shit that might not have anything to do with your carb, and are genuinely interested in old shit. good blokes.

yea do that, thats how they were made by ford in the factory

steve how many times do you have to be proved wrong and look even more like a fuckwit (if thats possible) before you realize that you don't have a fucking clue what your talking about. Ive seen photos of your work, and all i can say is this, anyone who produces work that looks like a fucking abortion should be treated with a pretty big grain of salt. they dont make salt in big enough chunks to deal with your work. you're an idiot.

once again, what you have written is complete bullshit. studs require far less torque to achieve the same clamping force, they put less stress on the threaded hole. there are plenty of reasons why you could use one over the other, but none of them have anything to do with what you said. try at least once to present your thoughts as just that, you thoughts, cauz what you say has got fuck all to do with facts. sheepers.

Doesn't matter so much for turbo car though? You see those drag cars etc that don't even have an exhaust off the turbo. yes it does. drag cars have fuck all to do with a "usable" engine. they do their job very well, but put those engines in a street car and you will soon learn that exhaust sizing on a turbro is very important. sheepers.

send me a PM man and we'll sort something out. sheepers.

before you try any of that, hold a very large heavy piece of metal, like a dumpy hammer, against one side of the ball joint arm thingo. hit the other side very hard with another large heavy hammer. what happens is it tries to ovalise the hole momentarily and the taper on the ball joint shaft lets go. this method has worked since they invented tapered ball joint shafts.... hit it maybe 5 times then hit the ball joint shaft to see if its come loose, repeat this process until it comes out, it will come out. sheepers.

yes. i went up in size considerably from stock supra (JZA70) to R32 GTR and it made a noticeable difference.

i can weld it for you, but i cant machine it afterwards. (like i usually do) i dont have access to a lathe big enough to spin a 17" rim, but if push comes to shove i can ask around. PM me if you want me to do it. i'll charge you about 50$ just to weld it, 100$ if you want me to machine and polish it too. let me know.

have a look on the LVSA website or talk to your/any engineer. but dont waste your time asking a bunch of idiots like us, if you went on advice from the interwebs youd be screwed.

made in England?

i cant come to this one sorry. have a good time you crazy kids.

what is a set of arrow wheels worth?? i have a real soft spot for things made in New Zealand, its my thing that i do. quite keen on this option really..............

there is only one mans vision that matters when it comes to steels on my celica and thats mine. NO!

ask spencer? he had a couple of sedans. ive got a few random bits of trim for the 75's and thats about it, apart from steering wheels. you sure i couldn't interest you in a steering wheel???

Beatty's driveshafts are in fairfax ave. they pretty good at what they do. cant help you with anyone mad enough to weld a fresh tank though....

i forgot to mention, my half shafts are made and are at heat treating. and Ive started looking for wheels. i want to run 16"s but the lack of tyres and available rims (ie those with dish) is pushing me toward 17"s. i really like the looks of Steve's car in auz with the 8"s on the front and the 9"s on the back and i would copy this exactly if i can. this, but yea, suggestions on wheels? pics of said suggestions??? ive said it before but ill say it again, i cant fit anything smaller than 16" over the brakes so not much point in saying "widened 13" steelies bro" because that ain't gonna happen. discuss here, viewtopic.php?f=18&t=10653

more has been achieved in the area of welding bits on. Ive got the subframe sitting where i want it, i was going to move it forward by another 10mm but i don't think i need to. the reason i was going to do this is all to do with wheel clearance issues i had with the 23, but none of these rules apply here because the wheel wont move in an arc like it does on a normal live axle car. ill take out the strut and check wheel clearance but i think I'm good to go with where it sits now. the wheel thats on the car in the photo bellow is about 630 in diameter, roughly the same as a 235/40/17. with the car on the ground the wheel moves up about 15-20mm from where it is now (the strut and spring i have is very stiff, ill be changing this but its all i have for now) but thats the ride height I'm aiming for. i have to make some more plates and such for the mounting points and to strengthen up the floor. but the rails are done and there is clearance (fuck all but enough) between the chassis rails and the subframe. so its more upside down welding for me. i went out in the shed last night but i couldn't hold my arms up above my head any more so i had a night of, i need to acquire some 10mm plate and some huge angle iron bits and pieces to make stuff with. i can actually see a light at the end of the tunnel now. hard to believe. and it looks like ill be able to have a back seat as per normal too. sheepers.

no. blow the lines out before you attach anything and youll be fine.

the place that makes throttle cables and the like is behind Wolf muffelers on dominion road. there is a small dead end road just past wolf mufflers, not on dominion road but the other one. the LPG instilation place is on the corner. the place you want has a big sign that says EBC brakes. edit: its akipiro street, of charles street.