he's added about 5k to the price, so I am sure there is some negotiating room (though he has also refurb'ed the front bumper, which was starting to show some wear after a cheap repair from the Pukekohe incident)
it's the taper (presuming those have a taper) that holds the flywheel on the crank, the key is just for positioning... I removed the key from my BSA no troubles after 200 miles...
however setting the timing 'blind' can be a pain in the arse
most auto spec led's probably won't run so happy at 6v...
when I converted my bikes to LED lighting I convert to 12v + dc regulator/rectifier... and even then on one of them with only a 10w lighting coil I still get a pretty obvious strobe at idle via the headlight...
I converted my sealed 6v to 12v tower led with jb weld a while ago...
that was my plan... but the painter I spoke to thought it would quite possibly leave a furry edge, its a pretty tight gap... maybe I can find a sheet of .5mm plastic though
geez I'm sick of posting trivial updates...
and it's looking like a super tricky job (mostly the masking) to paint the centers cream - will ponder some more...
cream will be painted on (hopefully this weekend) they can only really powder coat one colour...
don't think he's a member on here - though he has a couple of old school cars and he's known by a few guys on here...
change to a rubber friction drive on your starter and hold it on the flywheel instead? probably depends on how much compression these little engines have...
if you havn't already ordered you should consider some of this guys dropped spring plates... they correct the toe in issues that will be causing you to chew through rears...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... 51fd4112f0