Flauski

Registered it and putted around on it for a while. Then the engine started making bad knocking sound so it gave me the motivation to start the A100 conversion. Knocking A50: The A100 engine was from a much newer model and had been rebuilt by the previous owner (but it had sat for a while.) All the cases had been polished but the aluminium had started to go chalky and corrode. I polished it back up. I was very suprised that the A100 engine all bolted straight in the A50, no frame or pedal modifications needed at all. I did have to do a tiny bit of wiring. I wired in the more modern A100 style loom which included a rectifier rather than the original using the battery to rectify voltage setup. I also had to rewire the ignition at the outputs on the key barrel were different.

When I got the A50 home, I cleaned the carb in my ultrasonic then squirted in some fresh fuel. Checked oil / pump and it fired right up. It was very grubby having sat in a shed for a long time but had the perfect amount of patina. It was also missing the battery side cover. First start up running on a syringe worth of premix fuel + oil;

I have had soooooo many projects over the years and rarely can I say I have finished one to just how I want it. 1969ish Suzuki A50. Single cylinder, rotary valve, two stroke. I was stoked to find it. In my opinion it is up there with the best looking factory 49cc motorcycles next to a Yamaha RD50 / Honda CB50. Made a conscious decision that I will build it for me to keep. Sold here in NZ as an A50, some markets an AS50, some an AC50. They even did a high pipe version in other markets. Pretty rare bike here too. I got it in 2020, in a bulk deal of three bikes; A50, AC50 + A100 on the cusp of the first lock down. This is the orange AC50 tucked in between the A100 and A50 on the trailer: The AC50 had a smashed headlight (unique) but sourced another per below and got a new battery before selling it. I def prefer the grey tank of the three Suzuki options. Has the best looking tank IMO of the 3 Suzuki 49cc options with A/AS/AC moniker. Blue A100 on the trailer turned out to have a poked engine so ended up selling it in parts: A while later I found another blue A100 on Facebook marketplace with a rebuilt engine and a spare engine. This is the other A100 I bought with the rebuilt engine but I swapped in the spare engine (it came with) and sold it.

I feel kind of dirty saying this but I really like it.

So stoked for you. Needs some 3 piece wheels and done. A mate of mine (who has owned at least 10 x 1600s in the last 20 years, a bit of an expert and still owns a fj20et one.. ) told me that when it comes to Datsun 1600s, UJ axles may be less smooth but CV axles click and fail bad when 1600s are lowered where they need to be lowered to. I'm gonna run UJ myself. I'm also gonna run R180 clutch LSD from a Subaru STI 2004. Much better than viscous. Only some 2004-2006 STI are R180 clutch type 3.9, so you need to do ya homework. See this site for total LSD conversion info. Same same as 240z and 240k. You will need 27 spline stub axles for the subaru conversion. Standard Nissan is 25. I got mine from Kameari in Japan, cheaper and better than the US equivalent that people talk about. http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/2016/6/18/datsun-240z-limited-slip-differential

Dude, I'm lovin this. Two tone + legit accessories. Nice.

I will have to get my Yammy F5 going and meet up for a putt putt.

Ahhh, I saw you this morning putting along Langley. Nice bike! Unless there is another one as tidy with a green helmeted rider. Disappointed I had had my headphones on so I was late to turn and see.

Nice, only about 5 Kawasakis?

Awesome, can't wait to see ya old man's car ripping up the hill.

If your rebuild kit didn't come with a float valve replacement that will be your culprit for over fuelling. As I pointed out, the original one was dicey and not operating smoothly. Good to hear its runnin and smokin'!

Still sitting in a box waiting for me , like the rest of the bike

It is not going as yet, a looooong term project. I am trying to cull the fleet a little. I will send you a message.

My bad, I see you said the tag does match the plates, I thought it says doesn't. I would still get the original colour info for the vehicle that the plates belong to (from land transport) and see if it matches the original colour od the shell in front of you. A mistake, even though it would be epic is still plausible when they are assembling cars in the 70s, literally grabbing the next shell and next ID tag off the pile and uniting them.

I'm getting lost here. tag don't match shell? tag don't match plates? plates match shell? If tag doesn't match plates, what does chassis number on tag come back to?

Mazda 1300 coupe - two door coupe roof Mazda 1300 sedan - 4 door Mazda 1300 saloon - 2 door same body shape as 4 door. Well that is how it was explained to me moons ago. The interwebs says a sedan/saloon is the same same Tomato / Tomato. I can't remember which body style it was but it was not correct, I just used sedan / saloon as an example because it rang a bell.

Sound straight forward but have you actually tried to change the body type recently? I thought it could be done with a conversation but learnt there is now a form. I tried that once a couple of years ago, same deal. A car registered as a saloon when it was a sedan. I got told I needed to fill out the form and get proof in the form of a statement from the manufacturer and that the chassis number matched the body style so never bothered. Once again, gotta get the right person on the desk on any given day.

Ahh, good to know what sort of car. So like quite a few NZ assembled cars in the 1970s by Todd Motors where shells were shipped here with no chassis numbers stamped and not necessarily ever were (ala Datsun 1600s and some Mazdas) and they just relied on a manufacturer ID tag. So the ID tag on the car, on face of it, is for the wrong body style and recorded manufacturer (Chrysler/Hillman) and that is what leads you to believe it has had the plates tags swapped? Has the question been asked directly of the current/previous owner? It may be just a mistake. I have seen a ton of mistakes for old cars. Peoples recording ability in the 70s-80s was just absolute rubbish. If it was assembled here in NZ then it could have been some muppet on the production line that put the wrong tag on the wrong shell. You could investigate this further. If you contact Land Transport they should be able to tell you any history of colour changes to the car. ie, its original details may have been changed - colour or body style. It might be obvious that the car in front of you was originally brown, or you have scratched some paint off and seen brown at the bottom (unlikely someone has EVER done a bare metal interior/exterior paint on an Avenger.) If the original colour for the plates, matches the car in front of you, this could indicate a mistaken ID tag put on the car. I have used the above before. A car I have owned had a chassis number stamped into it that looked like it had been done by a kid (wonky) and in a different place from JDM assembled models. But after confirming chassis number range allocation for exact model year for NZ assembled cars as well as the different chassis number location directly with the manufacturer I took a further step. I confirmed with Land Transport that the car was originally registered as yellow and had been changed to green in 2006 and blue in 2008. I could see areas of the original colour in the boot were yellow under blue and green. I was then satisfied convinced that the car was legit and the person who stamped the chassis number needed their eyes fixed. A further glimmer of hope is in the engine no. Land Transport (not car jam) can search via engine number. The details will only be lost if the original car was deregistered around 1990. Failing that all you can do is ask a Land Transport inspector, spell it all out and hope you get one that is up with the play / cares about old cars. Even that is difficult.

True but he is asking about re-registering. Good luck trying to convince Land Transport or an inspector that putting plates and tags on a vehicle was not done for a dishonest purpose. The fact is, you cannot swap the identity of one vehicle to another regardless of the reason. To be re-registered, the burden of proof is on the person proving (physically with engine/chassis/ID numbers) that it is not stolen. Not that it might be or might not be because it is impossible to determine.

It would seem that he is screwed. Engine no? Without some firm proof as to the original identity, he will never be able to prove its not stolen. Buyer beware, due diligence, caveat emptor etc.

OOsh got any spares for the F5? I have messed up my front end (steering head + shocks) by mixing bits with a YB100....

An old bike of mine. CB200 tank on a Cb125 frame with GL145 swing arm and GL145 front end (ex-bucket racer) From memory the CB200 tank was too wide at steering stem end, and longer so not a bolt-on option. And same deal with CB50 tank (tank longer + didn't fit over frame but fitted at steering head end...) Aaaaand, same again with early model CB100/CB125 tank (think someone on here might actually own this bike now? Saw it at DGR Wellington 2017 with the same pink tank and butterfly decal)

Should fit, then sell me your 125

Gee that's a score! Shaft drive sweetness. The 750 looks so much bigger physically with its tank than the 650. I should really finish my KZ650.

Say what? [Shock posting] Call of New Zealand! Let's introduce the New Zealand reckless troupe that caught on with confusion! ! 【Foreigner reckless driver】 Hahah, sweet Engrish on that blog post