tortron

Took jdm headunit out of rav and put in a blaupunkt alice springs worked fine for a few months, then it started screeching, seems to be coming from drivers door speaker, but its so loud i havnt pin pointed it yet. Might unplug that speaker and see what happens at the moment it will play just fine for about 2-3 mins, engine running or not running, and then crackle and start screaching earths - i have checked that the plug on the back is plugged in, and i have now run a heavy earth cable from the plug to the chassis, and from the body of the headunit to the chassis, and it made no difference ideas? it seems to be something warming up? maybe a bad solder joint in the headunit itself

Might need to downsize the images, there's a 3.8mb ish size for them. Either crop them or host them somewhere like imgur

Good, cars have gotten gbigger and bigger rear windows since 55, and im glad to see the reversal

Yea you are right, out the front may be best, I guess I have to go there to release the tilt anyways. 90% of the time I load 1 bike, from the roadside so not an issue, Trailer is 1750 wide To get 1 ramp out I need 2180, or both 2610

Had to add some extra loom for these reflectors that also have running lights and brake lights in them Oh yeah I have also put some bright galv over the black zinc. Looks good. Didn't think it was worth cleaning my guns or using any of the good paint I have, so it gets this. Touch ups will be easy anyways

Did a bit of wiring and mounting the loom out of the way

Decided to mount the ramps at the front of the bed and have them slide out the sides. Ran out of steel, so need some angle iron to finish the rear half of the tray/slider. Face of the ramp will sit flush with frame of trailer and be held in place with a spring bolt This also adds a bunch of rigidity to the front end, more screw down points for the deck as well Not quite enough room behind the Fender and between the "foot" of the end, so it was either here or out the front. Might get an under tray storage for tie downs in the rear to balance it out yet

New set of wheel nuts

Would give me about 50mm between axle and frame, which I felt was a bit tight

I have a factory mitsi 2L radiator in my ute and have no issues with a 3.8 m8 engine cooling. So I don't buy 100 cc extra not working even on a van rad. Its copper core isn't it

Figured out all my problems Can get a 50mm drop if needed by mounting the coupling to the underside of the drawbar Measured some stuff Mounted the lights Made 1 ramp, have exhausted my scrap steel, so need to get some angle iron for that, and to go around all the wooden edges. Think I will mount the ramps so they slide out from under the deck on one of the sides That centre section of tread plate could in theory be detachable and make 1 long ramp, but I think I'm gona try just the short ones and tilt and see how much of a pain loading 2 bikes is before making a long one Otherwise I will make it winch tilt

It oxidises when exposed to air Which is part of why sealed for life things are sealed for life

It's on a lot of an angle Utes tow bar is lowered to fit under the 2nd gen tray. Will be better with the original tray and bar on it. It's about 340mm to centre of ball as is, explorer is more like 440 and sits nice Not much I can do about using it with the wingroad, unless I put 13s on it, but I'm pretty sure it's brit 5" 5 stud so not much options there. maybe some yank stuff we dont have here anyways Gona put a bar on the rav this week, will see where that ends up Anyway that came up because I'm measuring for ramps On tilt I can use 2 x 550mm long ramps and load a bike or a 4 Wheeler or ride on But if I want to load 2 bikes, then using the tilt becomes a bit tricky, but I can use a single 1.1m long ramp 550x2 =1.1m. Funny how that works out. (unless I lower the trailer on 13s) *chucked the wingroad towbar on and its actually higher than the utes, so height might be ok. if need be i will cut the drawbar off and space it lower, theres no structure int he trailer so no worries

anyone know the size of a ma70 supra roof? width between the drip rails

I'm want to add reenforcing to them, but then again I can lift the trailer by each guard, so it's probably fine A keen eye will notice that the trailer is actually warped in every direction and bananad in as many. Axle is lined up with the drawbar tho so it's gone. The deck might help straighten that back out

Welded the guards on.

Also stripped the paint off. Zinc paint doesn't really work if it's on top of 5 previous layers. The old green stuff was probably lead tho, so should have kept that. Made that bar to hook some angle. Iron over to attach ramps. Proba ly made it too low cos I forgot about the thickness of the deck till after it was on lol. But the ramp probably wants some framing so it doesn't be d, so it probably works out

Cut rusted end off and replaced with rubbish from under my tangelo tree

did you clean the clutch plates up when you had it apart? Probably its just the tractor nature of a HD, but every sticking/dragging clutch and hard to get into neutral while running i have had has been sticky black shit on the clutch plates, and the occasional worn cage fingers that i just file flat again and send

Granny shifting, not double clutching like you should

6mm is within Morris minor suspension geometry factory tolerance. Pretty lol seeing the massive spacers on the Friday job ones

You could upgrade it with a morris 8 engine!

Already sold my unused bits, only had a couple meters of free turning 8mm

Got some scaffold gravity lock things, will weld on the sides of the chassis nicely $2 each too, cheaper than trailer parts