tortron

Dakar replica®/tribute stat

yea have seen all of the parts on offer im more of a do it yourself kind of guy, more period correct haha and i dont think i could bare to part with more than i would spend to buy an entire minor on a single part

old wof sheet Remedy corrosion left b pillar -was water getting behind the lead trim on the seam at the rear cab roof. Pulled it all out, ground it fresh, bogged it smooth remedy fuel leaks - fuel bowl needle was worn, replaced with new Steering box mounting bolts loose -Tighened and locktited Both driveshaft UJ's worn -Both replaced with S1 Landrover items from the UK Movement in draglink ends to comply with manufacturer specs - these are adjustable, i just repacked them with grease, seems within spec to me, will take the original 1940's workshop manual with me. Movement in front wheels to comply (kingpins) - previous owner replaced these, turns out the holes were worn out, so he used a punch to get a bit more meat. This didnt last many miles. I had them tinned up and reamed to size for a new set of kingpins - perishing in all tyres and engine/gearbox mounts meh not covered in the wof, they can wait. haha Have just finished giving the cab and tray several coats of paint will go for wof this coming weekend (last wof expired 3/2/2010, i took it in last on 21/12/11) time flys

MMMmm dusty needs wide wheels now roof doesnt even come up to the trucks bonnet haha

was hoping to post a vid of this driving out of the garage, but i ran out of gas for another day will go play with the truck, it even started first pop after 4 months sitting

all signs point to check your plug after a wot run

Still going on this -Wired in electric fan with adjustable control switch -Installed secondary fusebox for extras im adding -Rewired my indicators and the original wiring was yuck -Put all the wires going to/from the control box back in the right places (most had been moved around - had to strip some of the fabric loom wrap to see the real colour of the wires, all of them are bleached yellow with age, wow, they had some psychedelic wire colours in the 50's) -Swapped out fuel gauge for one that works -Wrapped extractors - trying to keep the heat away from the carbs -Welded up my broken passenger seat (has been held together with kneadit since iv owned the car cool one wof men) -Bolted in one of the seats, lost the bolts for the other i think there is more, but its all piddly little stuff. At least all my electrics, steering, and suspension is finished - theres very little left on a morry after that To do re-wrap loom with black cloth loom tape, to make the horrible old one look nicer and absorb my new wires - really needs a new loom, time hasnt been kind to the original. cut to length and weld on exhaust tip rebleed brakes - i dont see any visible leaks, so there is probably air in there still attach steering column paint instrument panel and put it back on get bolts for grill panel (miffed at the new chrome hockey sticks i got, the holes in them dont match the supplied studs) bolts for drivers seat road tune thats bugger all really isnt it

Is that engine toast, or just locked up from sitting? Grab a how to keep your bug alive manual and whip it apart

mums beetle had a fridge door rivited in and carpet glued down so no one would know. Best bet is to get repo panels id say. 1k for good floors and engine may be asking a bit much

my uncle has one the same colour/this is probably it i recall going over a bump and quickly realising that it had no seatbelts

damage from sliding into a curb is it?

I took a lock off one of my bikes (helmet lock actually) that had no visible code on it, locksmith opened it up and had a new key for me in 20 mins

Pancake filters and stub stacks to hold me over till i get to a custom jobbie

The gasket on yhe lid wont affect anyyhing. Minors are a pain to bleed, you couldld try a gravity bleed - i got quite a bit of air out that way. Shoes are adjusted till they lock, then backed off a notch (do that before setting the handbrake) i yhink last time i rebuilt.my brakes i bled it twice took it for a poorly braked drive, then bled it again. Pedal should feel stiff right off the bat

Oil coated brillo pads are more correct. I pioe the idea of a single one

can get them exuk or america for cheap enough, i got a whole bunch of the brass duckbill lugs and knurled nuts for cheaper than one off trademe. Have tried to source cloth covered wires for everywhere possible, as anything else just looks silly. will connect exhaust and post a sound check. cbf rolling around on the ground today, so might set up the sound system

i have probably just failed to add a video. But I heard you boys like more doort! Twin carbs sucking away, wheel exit extractors, dirty old sidevalve fired right up once i restricted the flow a little. That filter came with the carbs, its fugly. Its a real shame one of my period correct pancake filters was stolen as i doubt il find a matching pair. So im going to make an oblong type filter box, low profile is needed to miss the passenger shock. Very pleased with myself

going to road register this cAm? i hope so

Finished fitting roof liner. The bit that goes under the rear window is too damaged to be of any real use and looks terrible. Will at some point make a new one twice as big as the original, and fit speakers in there i reckon. Picked up some boxed speakers but they are too big and look silly, will casually look for something very small and easy to hide, speakers can sit on the front parcel tray or under the seats for now. Went looking for an oil filter, was hoping a morry 1000 one was in stock. They are smaller than the one i need but still do the job. Lo and behold ryco now has 2 listings gor a sidevalve minor! They didnt 3 years ago. So i brought one and installed it in my AC filter unit, a slight upgrade over the purolator unit as it has a bypass. Made up all the battery, earth and starter cables using 00 gauge cable. Goddam its amazing how fast the starter spins. (my original earth cable turned to dust as i was measuring it!). I moved the earth cable to the lip of where the armstrong shock bolts too, better than the thin tin of the battery box i reckon, ran an earth from the engine near the starter there too (mine never has one, it probably was forgotten at the last engine change. Oh, and i have the old girl running just on the original carb and manifold for now. But now its roughly set up i can set up the carbs knowing it "should" run once they are right. Wish i could say she started first pop but a little encouragement was needed. Probably due to the new bits figuring themselves out. Not too bad, i dont think the engine has been run in 3 years

Done these things Made wooden battery tray/box. battery is held in place with a pair of leather belts/straps, wood is shellacked installed carpets repaired and recovered headliner panels (3xplyboard panels) in black vinyl. have fitted the two outside ones, middle one is proving to be difficult, might leave it a few days and see if its settled. soldered up a right angled copper adapter/reducer for my lower radiator hose. procrastinating getting it going by working on the interior

old vs new (on the original i had replaced the old.muffler with a flexypipe and a free flow resonator) new is a equal/similar length "tuned" to about 42" because i read someplace that that is the ideal length for this engine (also it just worked out close to that) 1" primaries into 1 1/4" secondaries then a flanged joint. Flexy to the 1 1/2" stainless exhaust with a coby resonator tucked up in the rear between the fuel tank and suspension (no room in original spot now for a muffler, and again this was a period mod in the 60s) have a few bits to tidy up and will have to see how gasproof my welding is. Will have about 40 or so cm more exhaust after the resonator and a stainless down turned tip. I also cut up a exhaust gasket. But it promptly got lost, hope to have it running by the end of the month

Currently exiting just after the front wheel. Need to now get some tube and a couple of bends for the secondaries, a set of flanges, and maybe a muffler. Also some gas for the welder

Morrie has a 3way switch under the dash/never had indicators originally. The commer has one of these clamp to steering column ones retrofitted. It originally had a wee left right switch on the horn button

Yup im wise to that jive its usually the bump stop.that goes through the inner wing and ventilates the engine bay. Can stay that low till iv sorted everything else