tortron

It's a big scooter

I'm gona scooter over I think

Cost too much now, a nice cheap LS is what you want for rock auto parts https://www.nztrucking.co.nz/cool-things-morris-is-that-you/

2.5 turns out base setting Then adjust for best idle Usually pays to count the turns when you take them apart or change anything

Do I recall seeing a bunch of conversions with that cab, the cab was mounted real high to clear and the exhaust comes straight out the side. I'm sure I have seen photos. Maybe it was all a lovely dream

Worst case scenario is that you buy a not suitable bike next time

It runs an oil pump I guess, which is probably leaking internally, letting more oil into the crankcase, potentially leaking overnight so it starts up real smokey? Got a scooter like that, although I can fix it for like $30, the go to is to loop the lines so the pump doesn't run dry, and run premix Personally I'd set up a wee container on the engine with solvent in it. Drop the oily plugs in that for ultrasonic cleaning while driving on the bulk bought rock auto plugs from the glove box lerl

Interdasting Here is a mount I probably can use. Not sure but it seems to be from a n15 but the guy was having a hard time getting it It's about an inch shorter which is exactly my problem

He has an eye for detail, those look like factory welds

Blmc approved

There's very little bolting on happening in this bolt on conversion Issues being Trans mount is too long. Il probably modify it to be the same but shorter Passenger axle is wrong. Apparently I ordered the wrong one, I think I got an early one when I needed a later one. Inner spline is too long, later ones appear to have a shorter spline. I never saw any one mention this or that there's any difference in boxes used, otherwise appears it will work, could cut down the axle spline but I think it would want its snap wing groove put back on, probably just get another. There was no mention of the gearbox mount being different but maybe I'd better check that it's not also the case Drivers side looks correct, but I have not offered it up yet Removed exhaust manifold, its cracked. Guess I have no option but to turbo it now. Obviously will need to be clocked to be more upright, but I may still have fitment issues with the front "engine mount" worst case I guess I put an auto crossmember on /cut the bracket off to clear the pressure side outlet pipe

I have to grind an unconfortable about of the piston away. I might try it in a lathe when mines back together to make a squish band. But the crown isn't that thick Can use the big bore highbdome piston, but you have to make a 5ish mm base spacer (and still have to do a bunch work to the piston) It's not a case of just use 1 base gasket or mill the head down. Its a rubbish piston to start with. Potentially a gsx600 pison is a better starting point, the one with the raised peak on it.

Can get a stock or +1mm 11:1 piston for the dr125, about the same price as a China bigbore kit Longer term I'm going to look at how big of valves I can put in the GN head. If I could run at minimum, dr125 valves along with a big flat top Honda piston, I think that would be pretty good. Would need machining to fit the DR valve springs. may be touch and go as there's different angles involved. I'm sure I have at least one head I can try it on. Can do about 165cc with the piston I have, but really want those bigger valves

Finally took the GN out for a test in its current setup Dr125 head, with double valve springs 150 kit, with valve cutouts in piston Hotcams cam 2 base gaskets Standard exhaust and GN bs carb setup from how I always had it Pretty eh, I expected that due to the low compression of the combustion chamber and lame 150 kit piston It has more power than a stock GN but it feels kind of sluggish off the line, has a bit of a stable between 6 to 8k rpm Really gets on cam at about 9000rpm and pulls to???? Rpm where it will sit but not give any more (my modded tach and the hour meter tach I don't trust much, modded says about 10 and never goes higher but the rpm sounds like it goes higher, hour meter about 12k but is inconsistent, I might have to make a light weight custom cluster) Anyways its good at high rpm, probably cos of the big valves coupled with the cam. I think I could tune the stumble out and help the low end with a vm or tm carb. But I just dislike this piston, and don't think it's worth any further development using it. Plan now, go back to 125cc. I'm going to run a complete dr125 topend, so just a stock jug with a high dome piston in it. This will give a good compression ratio, should put out a bit more power with the bigger valves, and along with the Hotcam will be a nice package. Then I'm going to throw a better carb on it, which again should improve it all over.

Hi chris I have looked into this, the consensus is that it sucks and a turbski is just way better

Looks comfy

1/3rd is where it transitions out of idle circuit. Therefore main jet circuit is blocked Or you have wet fuel

Needs one of them spare aliexpress mykunis

Hospital bed lift motor?

They go good with a GN engine m8

That's what they all say

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/motorcycles/lighting/direction-indicator-lamps 78 is the lamp date

Tyres and bars are the best mods for a GN