tortron

I'll test it tomorrow

Those caldera shields above seem to do a good job though. 20% more efficient use of heat.

Tried some other things. One was a tin can with steel wool in it and a bunch of holes. I managed to get the gel to roar in this set up, but boil time was still about 20mins, and it was hard to extinguish and carrying two things you may as well use an alcohol stove. Seems I got it right the first time, I tried a pot stand that sits on top of the tin, but it blocked too much air and increased boil time by 3-4 mins. Modified my original shield to support the mug better and put a few holes around the bottom. There's a few ways I could force feed it some air, but it's just extra complexity and weight for minimal gains, the tin itself doesn't promote it either. I have an idea about having 2 lids and some drilled tubing like a carb emulsion tube to get oxygen inside the can but eh maybe. As a comparison, an esbit tablet (solid hexamine fuel) boils 500ml in 8-9 minutes. It leaves some gack residue on the bottom of the pot though, however easy and reliable. I might see if I can find a clean burning firelighter for cheaper. Also it's faster if you break the tablet in half for more surface area The price is right on these cans, but in 20mins I can have cooked and eaten. Note to add- some forests around the world have fairly strict rules on camp stoves and gel fuel is allowed Also a 100g gas canister will boil about 10l for $6 so may as well use that

Made a small windshield/pot stand to use with a chafing dish warmer It's full of gelled meths, so it's pretty safe to use, can't really spill it, no fumes, nice and silent, don't need to bring another bottle of fuel like an alcohol stove, and it's basically fail safe Downside is 21minutes to bring 500ml to a rolling boil under perfect (sitting on my kitchen bench) conditions The pot holds 200g of fuel and will burn for about 3 hours. So can boil around 4.5L of water. A can costs about $2-3 Weight of my mug, windshield, and a full can comes in at about 340g. I'm going to zing some holes in the windshield where I can and try cut the gel with something to get more BTUs A home made alcohol stove should boil the same amount in under 10mins. They have the benefit of self pressurising and getting a strong flame, the gel also results in less energy than straight denatured alcohol. I might try make a round screen if it will fit inside the mug around the can (this one was just cut out of a much larger screen I have) Edit Straight meths knocks about 5 mins off the boil time in the same set up The flame gets a bit unwieldy though. I tried some stainless steel wool as a wick, which helped. But irl I don't think il bother, I also added meths to the gel until it was quite thin and it took about 1-2 mins off the boil time. Gona stick with the can as it is and perfect my windscreen Maybe something like this Thier alcohol stove is made from a beer can, seems to chooch harder than my gel and boil in half the time. Wonder if a small tube would supercharge the air intake

My factory middle seatbelt in Ute got called out cos somewhere it's recorded as 2 seater

Morris 8e 918cc sidevalve and box is a winning swap. Banned from 7special competition

Yeah itll be copper and asbestos. Wont need anything as long as it's a cast iron block and head

9" grinder and a shrinking disk with some soapy water will sort those dings out

It would already be Certed and not match the cert plate. Simple eh My clutch pedal is still there, it's just unpinned and ziptied up under the dash lol

Highly recommended a shrinking disk. Pretty sure you can make one out of an old stainless steel pot lid too

Been watching a bunch of engines getting built in YouTube. One guy had his water jackets half full of goo from what was probably old stop leak. Another had issues with a newish engine always running warm, full of casting sand still Both discovered after knocking out the Welsh plugs and highpressuring it out. Probably you hottanked your block or whatever tho

Spend all day 1. Cleaning and reassembling trans ☒ 2. Making a one time use tool ☑

Lots of bits in this. Looks good inside too, was expecting it to have been ragged to death judging from all the blown Buick 6 engines laying around the place i got it from

Thermostat measured at fully open temp not start to open temp

Harder than JB weld?

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The Speedo cable will be full of shit and may be close to breaking. Suggest remove it Clean out with solvent If it's not pooched, reoil and pop it back in

I don't think so, also it will stand out as silver against the table (same as silver rod)

I have some annoying apprentice marks in my old drill press table It needs a bit of a birthday (missing belt guard, bodged but functional motor mount and switch, no return spring, bend handle, no paint) so some divots in the table would stand out even more afterwards. There's one or two that I might make a cast iron screw or plug and insert to fill, but the others are shallow enough that I think I could fill them with some JB weld mixed with cast iron filings. Can anyone direct me to some photos of a cast iron drill table, mill table etc that has been filled with epoxy and filings? There's plenty of people recommending it online but no finished pics. I'd like it to have a pretty good blended finish. Or if there's something better than that what do you recommend (is devcon steel putty or another better to the point that I should go buy some rather than use the JB weld on my bench) If the epoxy doesn't blend nice I might drill the rest deeper and make more plugs Not interested in brazing them up, don't particularly want to mig weld them, although I'd probably get away with it without ruining it.

I sprayed Morrie years ago with a Wagner airless sprayer Tbh it worked mint for fill primer and then mattb

Remove starter. Insert this

Mini keg might fit in there mopednz, Get that man a DB https://www.liquorlegends.co.nz/db-draught-50l-keg

If you never lift on the gravel itl.be fine Don't recommend carrying all your gear in a backpack in that situation tho

Try install the needle a hair higher up in the piston. This will effectively richen it up at idle, and give you some more range with your idle screw (and richen it up through the whole range obviously) In my SU book it looks.like the 2.2L applications have BBD, BBN, BBX, BBW needles So the hif44 BB* equivalent needle is probably in the range

Let's all get shit bicycles and add shit China 2 stroke kits to them Small engine Big diameter tyres Best of both worlds