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interested in your lowering method, tell me its not dodgey what is it? coil or so cut off kings? just trying to sort out the front of my mk5 atm, im thinking superlow kings minus a coil.

a friend has 7" hotties with 205/60/13s, with kings in the front and 2" blocks in the rear i think, it rubs alot. im sure that those tridents which are 6" with 185s wont rub at all at standard height and there wont be too many dramas if you lower it, might only need to bend the little lip up along the top part of the guard carefully with pliers if anything.

yeh, you can, my mate used to have some on his hotwires looks weird though ay. rather 215 , that is unless your going for the "stretched" look

not too sure, but id just check all the rest of the electrical system,could be the coil maybe? i once had a gay condenser, the wire inside the insulation was cracked or something, so it would work, then not work etc my car was constantly putting around almost dying etc

what are those wheels? they look the business.

is that cause it would make modgies illegal?

cheers, might just do that.

can anyone tell me/ tell me a place on the internet where i could find out what the code on the diffhead would be if it was a 3.23 lsd? would the numbers on the diff be 026073M and 731 ? cheers

methodz, can you always get hookups on prices? if its not that expensive to get the all the basic rebuild parts i may look into rebuilding my spare pinto sometime.

ive got front stub axles/hubs/discs/brake off a aussie mk4 with the vented discs and gonna chuck them on my mk5. just interested in what you know about redrilling them to another stud pattern, as i might look into it cause 4x108 is hell trying to find decent mags for. also what do you know about changing the stud pattern on the rear, ive got a diff/housing off the same aussie mk4 with drums.

yep, they will be the same, as long at they are nz assembled ones, not the aussie ones, vice versa. havent heard of any 5 stud hubs that bolt on.

welding+nutech on fucked parts of cars pwn. after i weld up holes when repairing rust, i always chuck it over of the welded stuff. stronger and more waterproof, helps long lasting repairs

im keen to come, mk5s a bit ruthless atm though

where did you get your fr32? was it a regrind? and how much was is?

dont cut yourself on them but, got a mean cut from my ones once. get a rag and put it around them and undo it like a lid on a jar, thats the way i do it.

how much money?

think its called the tie bar then ay

get me some injection

they all have about a 1cm lean to the left dude, every cortina ive ever dealt with does, even when chucking in brand new lowering springs, ive done about 5 mk5s and 1 mk3 and they all have the same lean. i5oogt, i bet yours do lean, just measure from the guard to the top of the tyre, should be 1cm lower on the left.

haha, my mk5 handles mean. safest feeling car ive ever driven haha.

yeh, balljoints easy to put back in. if you asked me a few months ago i would have had one, threw it away when i was sorting thought the stuff that id never need as a spare lol. when your doing it some things like to be bitches eg, putting the top shock bolt back in, freeing the ball joint from the stub axle, and reanligning the 2 swaybar bolt holes. just gotta be handy with a hammer and a largish screw driver and itll be sweet

your lean is natural man, every mk5 ive ever known has it. could be something ford done on purpose, so when a fat ass drives they weigh down the rhs so it evens out haha? king springs have a rhs and lhs side springs, ones longer than the other aswell, doesnt change the lean but. have you got the top rubber bushes for the rear springs in? and the bottom plastic circles?

yeh, you have to undo one of the ball joints, i usually choose the lower one, not hard to do at all, i havent compressed the springs ever either. 1. take out the shock 2. undo the two swaybar? nuts on the bottom wishbone 3.remove split pin from ball joint and undo nut half way. 4. whack the wishbone/balljoint with a hammer until it flings down and sits on the half undone nut. 5. put a jack under the wishbone 6. undo nut fully 7.lower the jack down fully 8. get a nice screwdriver and hammer and wedge the spring off the lip its caught on 9. spring should fling down and stop on the ground depending on how high the cars jacked up, pull it out etc ive never put standard springs back into a cortina, would imagine it'd be a bitch as compressors dont fit between the wishbones etc. lowered springs dont need compressing to get them in, and putting them in is the reverse order.

yeh, i lost the keys to the mk2 scrot i have, recently went to go start it up, managed to do it with a slut cortina key and a bit of jiggling. same thing with the filler cap, used the one i have for the mk5, all good.

$1500 bucks is quite a bit for blowing up tyres and painting the odd car, id go for something like this if it wasnt going to be used much, but you still wanted a good decent one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farming-industry/Industrial/Compressors-pumps/auction-67872791.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farming-industry/Building-construction/Tools/Air-tools/auction-67992279.htm ive heard that belt driven ones like those ones are the ones to go for, fuckup less or something.[/url]