ProZac

True dat, less sparks igniting my hair

If you just want to weld panels, i'd pick up a mig over a tig any day of the week, way faster, wasy easier, and just as tidy. Less heat transferrence also, as it's a much faster process. Stay away from anything gasless though, eugh....

Yeah get some fibreglass guards and nosecones made, and bonnets .

Pics of your car from when I looked at buying it a few years ago when it was a chch car, offered the guy some cash, but wasent keen. Love the dish.

Best of both worlds, crimp that shit, then heat it up and pump it full of solder, cover with heatshrink and.... shrink. Wire will break before that puppy does.

Looks positively evil now man, good work .

Can get motorcycle fork oil thru repco, think in 5w, 10w and 20w.

Where about are you? Ive got a set of very tidy Starion seats, in grey cloth.

When i swapped boosters and m/c in my old Sapporo i fucked up the adjustment from the booster to pedal linkage, had it too long or too short, cant remember which... Had the opposite to your problem, no feeling to the brake pedal at all really, but it only needed the slightest movement and the wheels would pretty much lock up. Look at this adjustment, especially as it looks like you've had it all apart to get cleaned and plated? Best of luck man, love the car.

Ditto sheepers above on comments regarding grinding discs or flapper wheels. Biggest problem i found when paying with welding alloy was that i needed way more surrent than i initially thought. Once i started really flooring the pedal everything started going sweet.

The weld above the perch, is that from the strut itself being shortened aswell?

Cheers man, appreciate it.

REALLY? Keen as! Do you have the metal buckets they sit in, that then bolt to the car itself?

Sweet, was hoping someone would save it (even though i wanted the headlights). Got any spare headlights?

Can get em at repco, not usually stocked though.

Have done the odd job here and there, havent really touched anything majour in a while. Welded the sump up, would work, but im not 100% happy with it, so i've started another. Couldnt get any replacement tie rods cheap, but had some gemini ones on the shelf, quick check shows the only difference was that they were ~15mm longer. Gave them the chop and tidied up the thread. Got some new Piazza tie rod ends to go with the piazza uprights. Job done. Stripped down my Piazza front calipers (chur Brock-Lee and CUL8R), all rubber boots were mint after a clean, gave the pistons and bores a quick sand/hone/polish with some 1200grit. Got some new seals and painted em a nice silver. Came up soooooo clean, look brand spankers! Reassembly is a bit fiddly, as i didnt want to mark the paint up to much, got there in the end. Thats it for the moment. Holidays on tuesday! yay! Time to muck about in the garage!

true inspiration man, love it.

The shafts have an oil feed going down them to supply the rear bearings, you can take the upper shaft out, and rotate the front bearing to block this one up. If you cut the lower one off behind the oil pump it'll piss oil out the back end. Thats where you need to weld up the hole, or put in a grub screw, or something to block it off anyway.

Just remember when you cut the oil pump driven balance shaft down to leave 10 or so mm sticking out, need something to clamp onto for future dissassembly/reassembly.

Easier (but not strictly correct) to think about the exhaust side as purely pressure. X amount of pressure makes the turbine spin a certain speed. The wastegate reduces this pressure, making the turbine spin slower, controlling the boost. If the wastegate isnt big enough, and cant reduce the pressure enough, the turbine spins faster and faster, creating more and more exhaust gas (pressure), and the problem snowballs. Only reason to not use an internal gate is if the turbo doesn't have one (common on aftermatket stuff), or the fitted one isnt big enough, also quite common when 'upping the boost'. I suppose another reason is that aftermarket external wastegates usually have more precise control, as they dont have a long actuator arm or anything, making boost control easier overall. Cant see any real disadvantages to the way ke36 has had it done, still a hole in the right place to let some gas out. Just a pain if you want to change turbos! Still want to go for a skid in your car though man

Amazon: 1 new from $266.68 2 used from $173.59 Sounds like it would be good. Might look in library. Wow, thats really expensive, glad i picked my copy up for a tenner. Library is definately a good bet for that one.

Someone has probably mentioned, but im way to lazy to check... 21st Century Performance, by Julian Edgar, ISBN-13: 978-0947216900. Really good read, covers heaps of shit, highly reccommended.

The stuff i've read indicates that header length and diameter = critical, but after that, not so much.

You'd have to find a really late model starion with the bigger diffs, think 87 onwards. Look for 5 stud ones, then check they have 6 bolt cv's.

Points dizzy in a 4g63? Don't see to many of those.... Have a hunt around for an electronic one (not optical), should work with just a new coil and no ballast. Will needs to check the vac advance isnt fucked though, as they almost always are, getting that rebuilt isnt to expensive though. Checked at work today and your cover hasent left yet, will call first thing tomorrow and get the lazy bastards to send it.