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Everything posted by Truenotch

  1. The quick guys were beating my lap times by roughly 1 second in all of the dry races, so there's definitely work to do on the car. The top 4 have all had their engines refreshed, so our car is the quickest of the original-motor crew... So the logical thing would be to get the engine rebuilt, right? WRONG It would be far more satisfying to catch them without doing the engine... I think... So we had to make a list of things to improve. The clutch is starting to slip, so that's due to be replaced. Next: inspect engine mounts. They were really bad! And wouldn't be helping the situation. Next up - cold air! Dad's added a bit of length to the filter pipe and made a box around the filter. Next - exhaust ports. They were pretty daggy! After: Next up: suspension.....
  2. I gave the MX5 a rest for Round 4 of the winter series so I could blow up the AE86's engine instead... So the next outing was at the New Zealand Grand Prix in February. Here's a quick clip of some action - I'm in #105 with the racing stripes. I'd managed to qualify well in greasy conditions and achieved P2. Unfortunately, the track was dry by the start of Race 1 and a few of the others managed to pass me, so I ended up 5th. The rest of the weekend ran along the same lines. 4th in race 2 and 5th in race 3 in the rain... Now, remember, a poor craftsman always blames his tools.... So.... It was definitely the car's fault. Here's the incar from race 1. You can see the difference in straight line pace, but I was also unhappy with the handling.
  3. I doubt you'll be able to go higher without having top-out issues. Remember that droop travel is just as important as bump travel when traveling over bumpy surfaces. I'd advise adding spacers above the shock top hats if you want to raise the ride height without losing too much bump travel. It's also a good idea to remove the springs and run the shock through its travel to see when the bump stop kicks in and how much clearance there is for the wheels and tyres at full bump.
  4. You should be able to hook a ride if you fly into TGA or HAM @RUNAMUCK. @johnnyfive Shall we create a proper entry form ala Nats so we can have next of kin, contact details etc sorted before the event starts?
  5. I've run this past @VLYTNK and she's keen to come along "as long as my scooter goes fast by then". @Raizer - PLZ HAALP .
  6. I feel like @Snoozin would appreciate this thread. That single seater looked great! And the crash must have been horrifying...
  7. You'd better watch out for the Fog City Mumblers then!
  8. Ok then. I'll make a start on the FS1 and will have the FA70 sorted by then. Hopefully Rahn will have an FZ70 too.
  9. You have no idea how much I'm fizzing over this thing. Saabs are so fricken cool. My first car was an 80's 99 4 door in Tabasco red. I wish it was still in the family.
  10. This is great. I'm sure I could find a space for that in my stairwell...
  11. Cool vid! I really like the autocross layout too - tightening esses to the end of the paddock, expanding esses on the way back. Perfect paddock for it too.
  12. Hey @nzvohc there's a better way to bring all your pictures back, it'll just take a bit of time. If you right click "open link in new tab" it'll bring up your photo in potobucket. Then you can download it, edit your post, upload the images directly to the forum and be done with it. Then you shouldn't have to worry about this issue happening again. This car is awesome by the way. I'd forgotten it existed.
  13. Oh man, synergy needs to build a 500cc V8 from a couple of these.....
  14. Yaaas! Nice. We need more Kei goodness around here.
  15. Yeah, that's another big reason for the dual rate setup - way better over kerbs and big bumps. It helps to make the rear less jumpy and soak up the big hits. I've also noticed that most suspension tuners keep their cards close to their chest... It's the same with racecars, speedway, road race bikes, motocross bikes and obviously offroading too. There's a small amount of info on the internet, but it's just enough to get you confused. I'd really like to do an apprenticeship with a switched on suspension Barry to get a better idea of how it all works. How low is the rebound damping meant to be? And is there a bump/rebound ration that's ideal? In racecars it seems that 1:2 bump:rebound is the ballpark ratio with a digressive piston that "blows off" in the higher speeds, so you get good low speed feel without flying into the air every time you hit a rut. Time to buy a shock dyno.
  16. I lolled at "dafuq am I asking these cunts for?". Love the scrap metal creations btw.
  17. The dual spring thing is really interesting! I can only imagine how bobbly it must be when transitioning from soft to hard multiple times in a row . I've been reading a bit about dual spring setups in racecars lately and it's pretty confusing. Most racecars use the secondary spring to push the wheel down while unloaded to get a bit of extra traction, but the low rate spring will usually be fully compressed under the weight of the car. Also bump vs rebound damping and digressive pistons for variable high/low speed damping... Man it's interesting but pretty hard to get your head around! I like what you're doing though, it will be awesome if you get it to handle OK on the road.
  18. Truenotch


    I'm working towards painting the engine bay and under the arches of my racecar at the moment. I want it to be hard wearing and able to deal with oil, fuel etc. What's the go? I'm picking the bringing everything back to bare metal would be best, then 2 part epoxy primer and wet layered 2 part for the top coat? The rattle can job I did 5 years ago survived ok, but peeled off really easily when I was degreasing the engine bay. Also, is it possible to get good 2 part satin paint? My front bumper and wheel arches are always chipping from rubber marbles and other debris... Would be nice to get decent paint on there and not have to worry as much.
  19. There's no driveshaft loop rules for motorsport Dave... Probably should be though.