Ned

There are both cable and hydraulic bellhousings for k-t and there is also an outfit that makes a hydro to cable conversion thing I believe. There was a post on Club-K last week I believe, let me see if I can find it on my phone

That's the weekend before nats. Busy few weeks coming up. Maybe Easter would get a few people keen to trip from further away?

I'm keen for an excuse to come to your nice area of the country again

i dont KNOW the answer, but i'd be trying crc myself, and move to brake clean if that didnt work, and then some strange glue remover i found with lots of benzene. Not sure those last 2 are a good idea, but crc is pretty safe on paint last time i tried and was actually quite effective at removing sticky stuff

I saw first hand the difference between a $150 and a $700 gun by the same untrained n00b and the difference was night and day. Not saying you have to spend $700, but the job that was done with the cheap gun was rubbish and the expensive gun was mint, so at least don't get bottom of the barrel spec if you ask me...

Tonight! Keen!

#nats17

What a good turnout this year! Super sweet

I knew you had done a lot of work,but those photos show that you've done more work in 2 years than I have done in 30. Very envious and am pining for a visit!

Nah, I've used the LC2 as well

14point7 all the way. That's what I run and is so so much smaller than the LC2, plus it runs individual power and signal ground, which is what you want and pretty sure LC2 doesn't have? Or maybe I got it wrong and that's what isn't good about my 14point7... /ling

Theres plenty of RC hobby chargers/dischargers out there but none that i know of that will do 1000W charge and discharge. The little cheap hobby ones will normally do 50W charge and 5W discharge which is no good for big big cells (unless you wanna wait a million years to cycle batteries) What we did was out packs were 144V and we would divide them into 3 packs of 48V and to discharge we would connect them in parallel and use a big 3 phase grid tied inverter to suck all the power out and pump it back into the mains. Then disconnect and reconnect the batteries back in series for 144V and charge them again.

Have you ordered batteries yet? I spent a number of years developing a variety of EV battery chargers in a previous job and have gotten to know a person or 2 that might be able to get a good deal on batteries. No promises, but happy to send out a couple emails and see what I can do if you don't already have some lined up. Those dual warp 9s are going to be crazy awesome in a KE70! Love it!

I have 3 wrapped things in the car, but they are all for preassigned people... Navneal and brockzila are the lucky recipients of my gifts. Come find me!

It was Chris, and the reply was meant with the same level of tongue in cheek-ness

I'm sure you can find something... You know you're going to get rubbish in return right? Might even be better, more useful rubbish than the stuff you already own (and I know you own plenty!)

I'll be there

simple relay 1 must be on for relay 2 to operate or use the fuel pressure to start relay 2 Or just run both pumps from 1 relay...? I run fuel pump, ignition and injectors from 1 relay so they are all on at the same time, and if the relay fails, they all fail (really i just didnt wanna wire more than 1 relay)

GOOD LUCK DAVE!

2zz? i wish!

cert? whats that? no, cert will be on the cards for some time in the new year maybe? plenty of other things that want/need my money and a cert for a bolt in engine isnt high on the priority list ATM

it runs! it runs! it runs! looky here; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36476-neds-7k-drop-hatch-starlet/page-2#entry1623013

wow, so much tired, so much great though... so not very interesting things first, i mounted the wideband the other day and sacrificed some of my finger in the process Wiring was well underway Monday night and put a big dent into it anyway. Most the sensors had wires on them pretty quick. The tefzel is nice and small and awesome, but a little harder to work with. The stripping of the cable is a bit harder. The insulation is quite hard and slippery, but with good crimpers, life is good really. I normally just post photos with a description, but i might waffle on a bit more because it might interest 1 or 2 other people. Photo skimmers can just ignore text To do my wiring, i made a 'golden sample' of how much wire i needed from the firewall hole to the ECU (ECU is further than fuse box, so if it reaches ECU it can reach fuse box) and then i would just havce to measure the length needed for the sensor wires to the hole in the firewall and add the length of the golden sample. I started by soldering all the sensor plugs to new leads and making the ignition lead for the ignitor/coil/tacho feed etc. I knew i was going to run the TPS, IAT, IAC, CLT and Fuel pressure all together, so i put a bit of small braid on the plug end of all of them and then some bigged braid over the whole lot before feeding it through the firewall hole. Then the rest was the same, but some leads didnt get bundled up and just ran small braid over the whole line. While i wired stuff, Cam was trying to make the microsquirt rookie gave him behave. The board was well toast and the VR conditioning hardware on the board was toast. i had no idea what that above statement meant a year ago, so let me waffle on again and expand. You guys let me know if i can stop with the waffle in the discussion thread... VR is a variable reluctance sensor. It basically creates a voltage when a tooth comes near it and the voltage goes away again when the tooth goes away. This is how the ECU knows where the engine is. The problem is that VR sensors use AC, and the ECU needs to get its information in DC, so you have some conditioning circuitry that converts it. What they use is a zero crossing detector. When the tooth passes the sensor, the voltage first goes up, and then goes down. When it goes down, it actually goes to negative volts. The point where it goes negative is the point you want to detect wit the zero crossing detection circuit (where it crosses zero volts, aka ground) this is what it looks like and here we have cam spinning a spare dizzy by hand, with it connected to the circuit he made up this is what the 'workbench' looked like at the time and here you can see the VR sensor AC signal in yellow, and the nice square DC signal in blue sorry about the shit photo here so i put a smile on my phase and went back to wiring while cam figured out why it was quite buggy and kept failing and freezing once he actually pu the signal into the ECU... Got some wire coming into the cabin! finally! and pretty braided wire in the engine bay some early morning sun from the next day. Engine bay wiring was done, ready to tackle the inside wiring! it's not actually THAT many wires... thing with was ~35 wires? i labled them all with a label maker that prints on heat shrink! so so good this wiring shouldnt change, but for fault finding, this is def the way to go i think! Cam asked a couple times "did you plug xyz sensor in the right place, it doesnt work...?" and if i hadnt labeled them, i'd be shit out of luck if i tried to trace it... Its a label maker me and cam went 1/2s in. Its a DYMO Rhino 4200 for those interested. Theres one on trademe for $629, but america has them for $60 here. We even got ours on a 1/2 off sale or something? cost like $40 NZ at the time plkus shipping. The problem is the heat shrink isnt cheap. ~$65 for 1.5 meters. Plug is going on! I actually had an issue with the plug, and thats that when i ran 2 or 3 cables into the crimp terminal ,it wasnt too happy about the connector closing. The connector had a little clip plate that slides off, and lets you put the pins in place. Once they are all in place, you clip it back in and it locks the pins. If the pins arent seated right, the clippy in bit wont clip back in, so i extended a bunch of the double and tipple cables by an inch or so and plugged them all in with a single wire in the crimp terminals and was sweet. Made the wiring much more yuck though because the lengths werent all the same anymore and tangled a few things when i plugged everything in for the second time. Meh. Then it was time to see if it would work! tested a few sensors and it all failed. Turns out the 5V signal for the MAP, TPS and fuel pressure wasnt working so we jumper wired that on the ECU too. Tested some more and we had spark and could hear injectors and fuel pump control worked, wideband worked, idle control didnt, IAT didnt, battery voltage measurement didnt, god knows what else didnt, but this did; so after that, we threw all the rubbish on the floor and drove it to monthly meet! Cam lives 20-30 min from the monthly meet, and only 2 streets from the motorway. before we left we noticed the car was mega rich, so cam leaned it out a bit and after a little tinkering realised the ECU was adding HEAPS more fuel because it though the battery was low, so the injectors would need more on time to deliver the fuel, but the battery voltage was fine, so it over fueled. Disabled that, and off we went! Its running ok, but not fantastic, but we get it 200 meters down the road until it starts to cough and splutter... great! car dies so we have a look around for why. Cam on the laptop and me IRL. ignitor was roasting hot! not good. cam looked around trying to see why for a while and i grabbed the IR temp measurement tool and a good 5 min after turniong off the car, it was still at 100 deg! so that sure did get hot! Turns out the battery voltage thing wasnt disabled for the dwell adjust and the ecu was over dwelling by like 1000000000%. Cam hit some keys and off we went. Idle was hard to control and was still running silly, but a choice had to be made 100m down the road; do we go on the motorway or not? go big or go home right? lets motorway it! Problem is that that entire stretch of motorway is being widened and there is no shoulder to pull over on if the car died and it was 7pm, and there is still plenty of traffic at that time having to cross the city. Car made it though, in 1 piece and after burger boes made it all the way home to Cams again too! Some pics Navneal took

Will do a decent post in the morning, running on 3.5 hours sleep ATM and ready for a shower and bed, but i just got back from Auckland monthly meet and i drove there in an EFI KP so sweet!

So much wire! Well, not that much at all really... Its all in place in the engine bay. Needs some cable tying and stuff, but it's looking good in the engine bay but still have inside the car to ECU to do as that's all just been shoved through the engine bay for now... Oh, and I used all 1 size and 2 colour wiring for the lot. 22awg black and white. Fun!