Ned

So everything appears to work until you plug the relay into the ECU? Can you turn the car off, and read the voltage on the ECU pin? Should be ~batt voltage. Then keep measuring while turning the car on so it primes and see what it says? Maybe increase the priming pulse to 5sec or so so the multimeter has time to settle. It should read basically 0. If it doesnt, then maybe the output driver is broken and needs replacing?

Got the pump on the wrong contacts of the relay? Should be on the normally open pins

Good thing you have a Black Faggot shirt then

Nah, some bits for it at the post office that i need to collect though, so watch this space

6cyl full sequential with 3ms dwell means that at 3,333.33 RPM multiples will be on at the same time. So at worst case of say up to 10krpm, youll have 3 of them on at one time. Now just gotta see how much current they draw and what you can draw through the 18awg, which is probably 20A without any real issue? So if the coils draw less than 7A each, youre ok at a guess

Im keen

Id run the factory ignition to the trigger of a new relay maybe and run new feeds probably, just to be sure? How much do those things draw anyway? And any of it setup as wasted spark? And what sort of dwell time? Once you know that you can figure out how many will be 'on' at one time and calculate if its fine via 1 lead or not...

Mr Jackson will be picking me up in the 626 and bugging cam about washing the 86 so he'll come too

Yeah, he likes a challenge James. Not fun if you're more excited about the whole ordeal than he is...

there as usual keen for yarns and burgers

if you wanna tune it for on the car, then best thing is to use it as close to in situ as possible and as real life as possible. Especially when it comes to voltage corrections etc. Batteries behave differently than power supplies, and different (size/type) batteries behave different, so you should do things like check dwell and injector stuff on the car as it would be used IRL really. That way you use the ECU to measure the battery voltage and control the things. If you did it off the car, and you get to an area thats weird and your ECU measures the voltage a little higher or lower than your test setup does, or the resistance in the leads is more or whatever, then it's 'shit' data already. When we did dwell on cams car, we just charged the battery right up, measured dwell, turned on the headlights and measured every 0.5V all the way down to like 10V i think? took all afternoon...

He got back to me, said pass on the website (evbuilders.com as on the car/in the pic) and get in touch via web site/email if keen. Guys name is Theo, he's cool and likes TV and stuff because he's actually an Audio Video guy

the man still has the car, and have asked him about it... its not actually all that blue though... Its for sale though. Might be a good permanent addition to the fleet/become your cheap (to drive, not buy) daily 11K owns it. Motor, batteries and charger alone cost more than that...

keen! What you using to control the injector? Also, is there a set pulse width and frequency you use for that sort of testing? like, is there an industry standard? guessing there might be a range where injectors are more consistent and reliable for repeat tests etc, and that at the extremes they probably arent as great?

i really hope thousanddollarsupercar has locked himself in a room with his piano and is filming an epic rap battle video... i wanna see some of you cats perform these raps

What about a blue electric conversion Sera?

Pull the fuel line off the fuel rail, and short out the 'test fuel pump' thing in the engine bay if its EFI? Or just pull the bung out/stab it with a screw driver

Hey Sparky, here's a little preview/rendering

i wish we had discussion threads for other projects... because i can see this being one i wanna look through again in a years time and i already know there will be a LOT of accolades being thrown around between posts looking good UJ!

I like

should do a 7K conversion

What's the standard one, and what's available?

An old microsquirt. Cam wants it back though so we're gonna have a look at my hardware again this weekend, but at this point it looks like I'm gonna stick a microsquirt chip on my hardware and try use that. I don't wanna use Fred's stuff anymore and I know microsquirt works... Pretty sure you're not supposed to do that, but I will likely look into using speeduino on my hardware after that

EFI all the way if you ask me. My car now returns 10L/100km and is only tuned for WOT for drag day, and a little bit of auto tune for part throttle, and super rich at idle and just off idle so plenty more gainz to be had... And that was towing the teardrop and 3 days worth of food and booze for 3 people as well as all the other gear I packed. I'm 100% on the EFI band wagon now that my starlet is converted... So much better already, and it's a pretty ahit setup still with a single throttle body and spark through the dizzy etc...

I'm voting microsquirt as well