Ned

there as usual keen for yarns and burgers

if you wanna tune it for on the car, then best thing is to use it as close to in situ as possible and as real life as possible. Especially when it comes to voltage corrections etc. Batteries behave differently than power supplies, and different (size/type) batteries behave different, so you should do things like check dwell and injector stuff on the car as it would be used IRL really. That way you use the ECU to measure the battery voltage and control the things. If you did it off the car, and you get to an area thats weird and your ECU measures the voltage a little higher or lower than your test setup does, or the resistance in the leads is more or whatever, then it's 'shit' data already. When we did dwell on cams car, we just charged the battery right up, measured dwell, turned on the headlights and measured every 0.5V all the way down to like 10V i think? took all afternoon...

He got back to me, said pass on the website (evbuilders.com as on the car/in the pic) and get in touch via web site/email if keen. Guys name is Theo, he's cool and likes TV and stuff because he's actually an Audio Video guy

the man still has the car, and have asked him about it... its not actually all that blue though... Its for sale though. Might be a good permanent addition to the fleet/become your cheap (to drive, not buy) daily 11K owns it. Motor, batteries and charger alone cost more than that...

keen! What you using to control the injector? Also, is there a set pulse width and frequency you use for that sort of testing? like, is there an industry standard? guessing there might be a range where injectors are more consistent and reliable for repeat tests etc, and that at the extremes they probably arent as great?

i really hope thousanddollarsupercar has locked himself in a room with his piano and is filming an epic rap battle video... i wanna see some of you cats perform these raps

What about a blue electric conversion Sera?

Pull the fuel line off the fuel rail, and short out the 'test fuel pump' thing in the engine bay if its EFI? Or just pull the bung out/stab it with a screw driver

Hey Sparky, here's a little preview/rendering

i wish we had discussion threads for other projects... because i can see this being one i wanna look through again in a years time and i already know there will be a LOT of accolades being thrown around between posts looking good UJ!

I like

should do a 7K conversion

What's the standard one, and what's available?

An old microsquirt. Cam wants it back though so we're gonna have a look at my hardware again this weekend, but at this point it looks like I'm gonna stick a microsquirt chip on my hardware and try use that. I don't wanna use Fred's stuff anymore and I know microsquirt works... Pretty sure you're not supposed to do that, but I will likely look into using speeduino on my hardware after that

EFI all the way if you ask me. My car now returns 10L/100km and is only tuned for WOT for drag day, and a little bit of auto tune for part throttle, and super rich at idle and just off idle so plenty more gainz to be had... And that was towing the teardrop and 3 days worth of food and booze for 3 people as well as all the other gear I packed. I'm 100% on the EFI band wagon now that my starlet is converted... So much better already, and it's a pretty ahit setup still with a single throttle body and spark through the dizzy etc...

I'm voting microsquirt as well

This weekend does actually work after all if people do go

I'm keen for a future event but this weekend is too soon for me probably

What car did they go with?

I wrote some code to read all the sensor data from slacker.cams Link G4, and converted it all to ELM327 so you can display it all on Torque or something else on your tablet. That way you can use a tablet as your gauges and change stuff around and set warning lights etc real easy. It's by no means finished, but it rans cam race car dash for a season without TOOO many failures Used it as a stand alone thing in Daves 626 a few weeks ago to read sensors and output to the tablet to check wideband 02 in the car. Happy to share the shit i have if you know your way around a microcontroller

How do the plugs look? Maybe its running rich somehow and fouling the plugs, but runs fine when cold because that's when it loves extra fuel? Maybe check (auto) choke?

I'll be leaving Auckland on Tuesday morning and heading to Taupo. Doubt anyone else will be leaving that early but message me if you are...

Looking good man. If the car doesn't start until you let go of the key, then it wouldn't surprise me if they got the feed for the coils from the normal 12v feed, but that turns off during cranking, so you'll have to find a better feed for that... You would normally run a couple new relays driven by the ECU that get fed by the fuel pump signal (on when the car is running and starting) and use that to power the fuel pump and the ignition (and injectors if you had them) and then another relay to drive the fan from the ECU as well. Didn't you say the ECU doesn't have a temperature input hooked up? You should hook it up. The temperature is one of the more important inputs to the ECU. I'm not actually 100% sure if it adjusts timing with temperature so maybe its not actually important unless its supplying fuel as well... Maybe ask a 4A guru

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Found it. Nice and easy http://flos.ie/index.php/product/t50-cable-clutch-conversion-kit/