Burntrubber

The 5200 is a copy of the 32/36 those other numbers are the venturi size not the butterfly size which should be 32/36.

Seems like alot of effort for carb turbo setup. I think you'll find after awhile that spark control is not where you have issues with a carbi turbo setup.

When I got my car certed I told the guy I had more to add later and asked him about extra cost. He told me whenever you change something the whole lot needs to be re-checked make sure your not hiding any other changes. As for the efi to carb thing it will need re-certing I asked about similar things like if my 2.0 efi turbo engine died could I chuch the stock 1.6 carb engine in my conversion is a bolt in engine no welding or anything he said no need a re-cert.

Changing vacume secondarys to mechanical makes a differance in low down power it effects smoothness and fuel consumption though. If you time them to early it will have quite the flat spot need to get it just right..

Yeah same here get 30min round town and if I took it on the open road and cained it about 10min before it would start.

Your issue probably is the coil pack but my megasquirt running wasted spark had the same problem it was bad 12v feed to the coils. Been wasted it would only fire 1 of the 2 cylinders connected to that coil pack had me stumped for ages.

Stock ecu? guess so fouling plugs and dropping a cylinder or sounding like it has can be caused by weak spark. Been a conversion I would look at coil power supply and the igniters also fuel pressure.

I just finnished doing this for a mate today. MA70 Supra rear setup its internal drum handbrake was simple as to setup probably took about 5hrs.

Agreed my 300zx turbo all the holes that hold the cover to the core go right through there's 6 of them.

Jack it up nice and high and un bolt it all. Start with the tie rods dont need to take em off the rack just pop them out of the stub assembly, then the top coupling bolt the one that clamps it to the steering coloum on the splined part, then the four rack mount bolts on the crossmember. You might aswell do the rack bushs at the same time there pretty cheap for urethane ones. I guess you'll be doing a urethane coupling aswell? that requires abit of grinding you have to cut the original rivits off. The kit I used had all the bolts and washers needed and a simple little pic of cutting the rivits off.

I had this problem on a T2 I just made a steel bracket mounted off the manifold flange to hold the actuator.

Steering coupling is actually not to bad to do on a Gemini gives you a chance to clean the rack up aswell there usually pretty dirty.

The jets need to be played with I honestly cant remember what they were. I think a 1.4 main on the primary and a 1.8 main on the seconday not sure what the air correctors where. I used a holley reguator modded for boost I bought it like that so not sure what was done to it. You do need to look at timing seriously if its going to be a daily etc mine was just a hack didnt really care it went well and only blew a head gasket once no other damage. I've gone efi now lol

I've done this before using a 32/36 just use 1 with plastic floats their all good. I locked the dizzy at 22 degrees for 8psi do a degree less for each pound down to say 15 degrees. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5073&hilit=turboed+work+hack

Doing Supra brakes on a Hilux diff at the moment might be finnished this weekend. Not sure what Supra there off guy supplied all the bits himself ma** he said cant remember. Should take piks I got the backing plate mounted on there just gota make up the caliper mounts. There internal drum to which is good I spose.

Without much experiance in stick welding you will find thin tubing very hard. By all means give it a go probably practace on some thicker flat material first though. Tube's a little harder than flat material to weld around. Mig is by far the easiest weather its the best is debatable but easiest it is.

EA may be the same 89 to 93 or 94 I think.

EB falcon rear disks and calipers are a good option the inside of the disk fits over the axle flange and the off-set of the disk and calipers is perfect. Mounting bracket for the calipers is simple to make similar to that orange diff. Falcon disks are 5x114 as well to which is handy if you don't wana re-stud cause that can be costly.

Pretty sure there just an emission's thing I left mine in and blocked them off etc and its fine.

Not much changed on the Gemini front just got this pic that I really like. Thinking about 2 toning the paint with gloss black on to with the same silver in the bottom. Also might make some new wider wheels 14x9-10" I'm pretty sure I'll get a 10" under there nah probably not .

I've had table curruption on my megasquirt before. Was differant sypdoms to what you have would start easy but not run at all I neva tried increasing the fuel though it may have helped. I had to flash the chip and reload the code to sort it might be differant with a link though.

Master that's the base required fuel is it? If increasing it helps id say its an injector or fuel pump/pressure issue. What impedance injectors are they if they are low has everything been setup to controll them properly? If not it can burn the injectors or their driver circuit out but that would usually get worse and worse not just bam and its stuffed.

Escort ones dont seem to have it from my experiance its some Cortina's that have it dont need it hooked up.

Anti stall pump when vacume drops it squirts gas in it connects to the other hose barb in the picture.

Mean all certed got the plate put on today go for the wof tomorrow. In other news my ecu is playing up again its actually been nothing but issues since I got it modded. I think something has burnt out it fuel cuts or just turns off not sure which one under high throttle at about 3000rpm.. I gave up on it yesterday and when I started it today it ran mean with almost no issues for about 10min then started again I'm guessing somethings getting to hot Meh least its certed guy was choice helped me heaps recomend him.