peteretep

they are welded? they sell alot of welded adjustable tca's in the UK but you will have trouble getting them certed in NZ

put electrical tape around the cut line

yeah if you have a lathe and the right bits then you could make them no worries. Maybe steel & tube or asmuss ie VG could do something?

i got mine from greenlane speed shop, they were a bit expensive though, like $15 each for 1/8" NPT fittings. but it was easy Llama can you stop talking so much shit you know nothing about

if its not too hard to change your setup to be mechanical advance only, then just do it, otherwise do nothing and you probably wont even know any difference

I just hooked it up for motorway speeds, i assume it works as I get relatively good economy on long trips

i get vac advance pulse at idle from my runners, even though all 4 are hooked up

flasher mechanism might be part of it

and pull a motor apart with its associated manual

using pictures like that is also very average, I have tried all the ways, scanning them as well, but the scales are just rubbish really

printing on a home printer and checking for accuracy is a bad good idea, home printers are super inaccurate. Only printers that can do good 1:1's are high end large printers, even fancy photocopiers are trash. If you dont have a super printer to use from a engineer or something, then your best bet is just to measure the shit out of what you are wanting to make, its not so bad with something like a manifold gasket because you can measure from every hole which can give you many points of reference. Plus if you are confident that all the ports/bolts are at the same height(ie level) then thats another thing that will help

sorry, that is for adjustables, and they are a good length as standard

I have some kind of VW Golf bilstein shocks in my car, I think they were like 120 each

splines are trash man

for a normal flange made from 10mm steel I would expect to see prices around $50, for your one it might be slightly different due to multiple bits/more machine time but I wouldnt expect too much more

maybe it will turn your frown upside down?

have you got a bhg??

haha good job drunk pete, im going to leadfoot if you could bring it there i guess

I could be down for some activities

i slept in the lounge, not sure where it would be though haha, hopefully I didnt decide to hide it

hey rookie dave, if you find a red camelbak bottle can you bring it to leadfoot or something for me?

hmm, maybe put an ammeter on the affected wires, maybe there is a short somewhere providing 12v to the light all the time. although i have a feeling + is supplied from regulator in which case it could be the regulator. one of the problems with having a function where a light goes on when there is no charge is that it can also shit itself

so your saying the light stays on even when you take the keys out of the ignition? if the ignition is turned on to 'on' then the light should be on as the alternator is not charging it sounds like voltage regulator might have crapped out

easy steel will cut it for you + they are like 5 minutes from your house ned. you know lots of engineering people who know where to get stuff like this right...

britain has to worry about salt, nz doesnt comparitively. Thats why dust seals are needed, because someone in the world needs them