peteretep

You should just remove the gauge and mount your android phone units place with msdroid then it can log and show more info

I think wide bands last about 20,000km typically

yeah it revs quick without any load, probably on the road I wont even notice I think yeah got the motor back in and ran it a bit on axle stands, we are modifying the fuel tank at the moment so there is a proper return in it then I will take it for a drive. I already regret not taking the crank and flywheel to be dowelled tbh as I was so close to having it apart. I'll just have to wait until it does it again now hahaha also cut bump stops, not sure if I will notice any difference, and I didnt measure anything so something major might smash into body now instead of bumpstops. who knows what will happen

which coil ground?

how tidy does a bump stop need to be when cutting them down?

its running wasted spark from 4 ls2 coils. 4 cylinder engine I changed the output from normal speed to half speed and changed the tacho to 2 cyl 4 stroke and it is definitely working better although still seems a little lazy. I'll take it on the road to see if it actually affects real life operation. I wonder if maybe the tacho is an older analogue or something style which can only react so fast

just using tachout from the ecu into the feed as per the wiring diagram shows. we tried wiring the output into the LO input on the tach and it worked but it showed almost double the rev's and was still slow to respond

I fitted an old vdo tacho to my microsquirt, it works and is accurate when rev's arent changing but it super slow to move so the accuracy is a little worthless. how can I solve this? I thought the thing in tech articles was for tacho's not running at all or really erratically?

Draftsight will allow you to open and edit them. Although you dont need the editing ability it is the best program for the job. You will be able to measure things if needed too http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight-cad-software/free-download/#xtor=AD-508-[swfreetools]-[middle]-[intext]-[www.solidworks.com]

ive had an exhaust and intake coated by procoat, you could touch the exhaust after thrashing the car. I was impressed by how well it worked tbh. but it was quite expensive

what on earth is going on, you need to post some better pics or a video of what is happening.

Check out the wilwood website, they have lots of dimensions

yeah man, I am going away on the 27th, but I can help you tomorrow or boxing day

could you put an m12 in it?

drilling and tapping wouldnt be hard, what size do you need? there is a right angle cordless drill at work

drill and tap next size up or helicoil?

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=455891

I need to machine a chamfer on the intakes but its looking good, filter just fits. intake length to bell mouths is about 230mm

oh yeah it says the cam is a 234HL, which worked out about right, HL being higher lift than normal 234 cam

I would guess that he has a cam similar to this. Pretty sure he said he asked for a high torque cam and he has peak power around 6k rpm http://kentcams.com/product-details/4/Camshaft/Camshaft/224--High-Torque/

timing will be more advanced at cruise becuase low throttle open creates lots of vac, full throttle there is no vac so no advance

yeah I was surprised to see slides carbs on a late model ish bike so CV make alot more sense. Hard to know with the jets but I dont think they will be miles out. Basically to set the needles, lower them down until there is fuel spewing out of the orifice at idle and then raise them up a little, normally there is a few settings to choose from. One of the first things to do once you get the car running is to check the sync on them, otherwise any tuning could be very hard

let me know if you have trouble getting the bike carbs to run right as I have experience having run them on my carb, although mine were CV type carbs

none, 14 inch rims with eagers only

the guy didnt even say what kind of cnc he wants to get done/do. there are so many types with different requirements