sentra

aslong as u keep 90% of the fuel form coming out ive actually done this shit before and it lasted a year untill i disturbed it. being able to walk away with no stress at the end of the night not trying to recover good batterys etc ftw /get drunk & forfeit wreck

rivet a plate with gasket maker over it? its a derby car

you dudes still have a whole trading day for bearings youl get it done easily breathe deeply worse comes to worse youl have a second hand engine in it saturday night running ///encouragement/////////////

t6his build is keeping me on the egde of my seat gaz and co

sheepers has my lc-1 atm, get him to courier it to you when hes finished (along with a promise not to break/steal it ) send it back when ur finished, lend ur shit to other forumers as payment. done.

4 shore

wont be wearing shoes

put lambo motor in morris send morris motor for reco put morris motor in lambo sell one of a kind su carbuterred push rod lambo to a trophy wife profit +1+1+11

theres nothing rugged irl about it the description sounds a bit ruggard lol you dont really need a lh/rh thread adjustment assy/its just a panhard rod/ you have a locknut to stop the thread working in itself/ millions are done that way/ etc

chop it, get the bolt & nut, bring it around and ill weld it this weekend if you like

just cut thr panhrd rod in half then cut a bit out, weld a big bolt to one side & drill a hole in the otherside & weld a nut to it, bam.

thats just after top gear live so plenty to talk about also will b thar

id like to rebuttle you normally id agree 100% but a pinto turbo is hardly worth putting money into im going to say suckthru su edit- i was trying to find a website about turbo su's and how great they are and by some sweet fluke this came up first result http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 202952.htm BUY BUY BUY!

you just line up the mark on the distributer gear and body and put it in sometimes you have to put it each way 1mm so it points at l1 on the cap once the helical gears done its thing, start motor, set timing. most rotor motors the pulley holes are assemetrical or have a locating rivit. otherwise search ausrotary about finding where you are relitive to the pulley keyway. also search about what the marks mean, there not what you think, from memory mazgal covers it well.

on the teamfc3s.org website you can also get the fsm which has all the gearbox info you want for them

there both much of a muchness in terms of strength there strong as but are all old as fuck now non turbo ones are rubbish s5 have the mounts on an angle i.e \___/ with the holes to mount the box on the / bits s4 mounts are flat on the bottom. seeing you have a bellhousing, you can also use s6 onwards (the input shaft length is 10mm diffirent from memory, i cant remeber which way) but youl have to devise some funny way to mount it or weld something to the rear housing. i think you can also use the early rear housing and get the remote gearshift that you can move to suit your gearstick hole, where as s6+ the shifter position is fixed. (but the deisgn of it is shitload better in everyway, i.e youd want to keep it) cause you can get s6+ boxes for the same price as s4/5 ($500~) but there a shitload newer, in less of a need for a rebuild, and noone bothers with them for early stuff. inside their pretty much idnencle / much the same shit again/ not worth mentioning.

how do you know jim?

if ur/anyones ever in aux and wanna go for a ski/board band a txt we now go drink piss on the oraki all the time after work and shit / atleast one day of each weekend.

was put togther by tauranga engine reconditioners, new everything, balanced/ last oversize /new pistons / ground crank / reco heads, hot cam, complete injection setup ( we have it on carb and ultra shit log exhaust manifold) $670 never started it had been on trademe for like 3 months noone wants this shit lol maaan it fuckin haaaauls compared to the million mile 2nd hand motors we been using there happened to be a boat identicle to it on the oraki basin today with a 302 v8 in it so pete organised a drag race which the 302 barely just pulled away, i reckon a reco jet unit with the impellors repaired (they havent been touched since like 1971) it would have been even. mark105 & yowzar came for a ski today and the ignition module died so we had an embrarrasing tow back to the ramp.

[quote="sentra" hopefully this one makes more then 20psi oil pressure irony 7am wake up and goto workshop we put it in this morning all buttoned down no oil pressure at all lol checked checked checked drill prime drill prime nothing ran out of ideas. rang kkk kolenel 'whats up dawg' 'bro, i wonder if someone forgot a frost plug' pulled motor out took sump off, took pump off, blew compressed air in gallery entrance air/oil poured out of a missing frost plug behind the cam nice 11pm home.

ok i took it out, took sump off sweet some mains caps bolts in the sump with broken heads lol bits of debris in oil pump teach me for buyiing crappy motors. so tonight me and cal are heading to tauranga to pick up this motor http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 220919.htm hopefully this one makes more then 20psi oil pressure (i realise noone here knows cal except pete but i cbf txting him to ask if he wants to come and hes on os anyway)

bump cause i chnaged it

rofl i thought i had no spark electrical problem turns out it was because the distributer wasnt turning the oil pump seized and took off a couple of teeth on the distributer on falcon 6cyl what causes an oil pump to seize? i cant find much spefically about automotive oilpumps on the net, also mackaz specifically, whats the score removing it? just have to remove sump? i dont have/cant find a service manual on the e-nets chuuurrr

speedos are never a challange you just call the speedo place and go 'this this this' and a day later you get a little gearbox in the mail

reteps in whangarei now im gunna head up with liv/manlymanman like 4ish5ish anything on? ill txt makaz when were all these see if wanna go get a beer or something