Hemi

K so progress since last update. started going through getting a roadworthy and found out I needed to get a Lo2 plate or some such, pretty much a plate for L/H drive vehicle. rang up old Earle and had a chat, the way he worded it i just need to get R/H headlights (pretty sure they are). replace the seatbelts to Adr approved items and then make the indicators orange because red indicators is a no no. So, I started with the seatbelts Had to modify the top mounts (original bolt goes into body and i was not changing that) All done. exciting! Then last night (previous stuff was maybe a month back) I set about getting the lights sorted was going down the path of moving the indicators to the reverse light and mount a reverse light somewhere else. Indicators were going to be easy until i realised the indicators and stop light use the same damn wire. so i ran a seperate stop light wire down to the l/h stop light and then over to the r/h one. Yay one job done! then i moved the indicators to the reverse lights and installed amber bulbs. All done, YAY! One last thing, the reverse light. i managed to score a tiny LED lightbar and while it draws bugger all (20w) i had a loom with a relay and fuses so i used that and wired up the way i thought it should. nope. hrmm so i started poking and prodding. then i got lazy and started just jumping wires to see what was doing what when i checked what i thought was the earth, it was totally not the earth (explains why it was working right) i found this out after the wires started smoking, way to slow to move my fingers in time. this x4 But hey got it all wired and working saaaweeeettt. Here is how the reverse light looks in place. Oh that worklight to the left is super lush. x2 20w arlec from bunnings. $70 seems pretty solid and light is awesome. Lights all working, some way brighter then others. So with all the lights working i went for a cheeky hoon around the block and then backed in to test out the light. Fuckin WOW, like WOW! So yeah,that might be a little bit bright tbh but it can stay until i find something better. Now to call Earle!

Well, ive done my normal thing and completly forgotten about this. triple booked tonight.see everyone at whagnats.

Those turbonique powred transaxles....wtf . 1200hp .*boggle*

Well, i know what im doing with my C10. That is god damn perfect man , super sweet idea and bang on execution.

Old Big deck swanga

F**king Germans pooing in the bushes.

I just realised i can come to this. Sqweeeeeee.

Fault codes?

Where would one get Tergophos or such from? trade store of some kind, painter shops etc?

Oh yeah meant some other mild aid opposed to the molasses. And thinking like manifold bolts that are rusted into heads. Spouse arc erosion is more effective for that though.

I was just thinking that. Works pretty well regardless.wonder if this would work on getting siezed things apart. leave in there a while then pull out and try getting apart.

Next to the Holden fuel caps. You coming to Brissy? Come stare at the sun and take the ute hooning.

Sounds normal. New brakes are really squidgy these days. Test with motor off after 5 out so pumps, wait then apply. Should go down a bit then go hard.

Bro. That " feel" is something someone that does them all the time has. Not Joe blog. Same with using a rattle gnn to take the pinion nut home. It's fine for experienced guys to say that to each other. But 3 duggas aint no torque setting. I can understand what you mean, others might not. Not a dig at you.

Well that's their fault. Get that shit rekitted, the vanes are probably koozered.

Cone nut is what you want ow.

bit deflating finding that in there

Awesome you got it sorted.a'quote' of 2-300. That's not a quote.

This is making me and the wheels SALTs.

BASEd on that I will not do such things

Well, that is what you want, for it to etch the material.

Take the plugs out. It will reduce the load on the bearings while your spinning it over even though this is minimal. Sounds messy, but a good way to see if it's pumping.

Yeah, just needs a good prime. Engine running is usually enough to get this done but maybe not by hand.

Evening Roger, I shall carry out a full load stationary cooling test at the nearest convenience. Cheers, Hemi.

List: Alternator tension biolt washer, not really a heavy enough duty and is all buckled Done Get gear selector display working. Done Dash lights, they dont work at all . Yes they do, the dimmer potentiometer is a bit old and sometimes does not contact. Window washer inop Needs a new motor , ill grab a motor from supecheap/ebay and mount it under the washer bottle. Wiper blades/razor blade the windscreen and put that sealer stuff on it Driveshaft centre bearing, space it upwards to lessen the angle of the u.j's ( vibration) Fix the speedo issue, gauge bounces all over the show and reads 80mph at 100kph This should be sorted now with the new cable Headlight alignment. Get a roadworthy (this might require rsising it up but we'll cross the bridge once there. Thermostat, figure out what going on there, either its running at the right temp and the gauge is wrong, or the gauge is right and it is running cold (which would help explain the high fuel consumption (18.3l/100km) Wire in a cigarette lighter, would have made using the phone for gps a bit less of a hassle Found a kit that will be perfect, x1 cig socket and x2 2?amp usb sockets. http://www.superchea...sh-Mount/346718 Get a new reciever and regas the A/C, compressor and everything works as i found out on the trip up, just needs a new reciever and some gas and should be good to go. Put in boss for a wideband and tune it. Possible rekit of carb, depends on how the tune goes. Fit wing mirrors, has some little ones on it but you cant really see bugger all. the truck came with some so i will dummy them up and see how they look. Have dummied these up and also seen a few c10 pics with them, im happy to fit them so will do that and some point. Secure glovebox