Hemi

Right oh , so not a huge amount done today , mainly focused on getting the thing lifterd, so ran down to Bob janes tyres not having much hope. I was wrong , the bird behind the counter was amazingly helpful and was on the phone to 3 place at once it looked. Managed to get some 17x8 5x127 in -6 . In hindsite, prbably should have gone +6 ( no 0 in the area) Should work ok though . holy crap they pretty much 32"s now Was pretty worried , but had another look at photos , the front has heaps of room so long is the offset doesnt put it clean into the gaurd. Same with the rear, mountains of room inside the gaurd, again , offset.

So plans from here? Get it over to WA. FInd out where the fuck i left all the very important pieces of paper. Get it legal. and fix anything that needs it. Hoon for a bit ( got to keep it mobile) Get it more comfy for cruising ( so a/c, prob raise it back up, sort the lack of seat suuport ( it has one setting , against the back wall) Then. look at getting the core components up to spec, so the engine, rad, all that stuff. check the engine externally ( compression etc) fix some leaks. wideband and get the carb not hoofing fuel in/ timing blah blah blah. The 350 trans is lush as , so for now split and worst the piss weak reverse, because if i dont i will explode it ( the engage diaphragm?) must be leaking or bypassing and it takes a few second to engage. Then hoon , then maybe a refresh of the 350, it has a nice idle that is like , so no cam at this stage. just a bit of love. The trans, really REALLY want that o/d @Spencer recommended something out of a VR that ive already forgotten . 700.... i cant member. Then bags, because i heart the look now, but its just not practical for hooning/ cruising. And its got a giant tray, pretty keen on someting the can self level. And bags are just the best for ride. its not a race car, i want the cloud like handling with some decent responsivness that does not come with just trying to make do . But that last list is miles way. Oh, and some surgery to remove some tumours before they become outright cancer.

Not sure what happened there , i swear this had a discussion thread. oh well .

WOW! Long time no update. So with moving over to WA this got left in storage, for 4 years. The place it was ended up closing up shop and they were nice enough to move it for me to another location,but it is a much smaller yard and its for timber importing/ exporting so you can imagine the movement in the yard. Got a call last week and it was pretty much a " bro, you need to get rid of this" So i jumped through a few hoops, bought a ticket and got over here. How i found it this morning: The bonnet rust was always there, has just got worse. the good news is the rest seems to still just be surface rust. STOKED! ANd after a new battery, fluid checks and a cheeky prefill of the carb, she fired up first pop. FREAKING STOKED! Let her warm up and burn all of the oils that made its way into the engine, poor bugger in the yard thought it was going to burn down. And omg unburnt dino juice, literal haze while idling. BUT IT RUNS AND MOVES! Now have to figure out a way to raise it back up because it is currently too low to get on a transporter. one more vid,

Vella Lavella! been there when pretty young, remember the parents went on a tour to some skull caves because cannibilism etc. beautiful place.

Saving this years work boot allocation just for the undertaking. good shit. Looking good there Bart.

Oh man, heretic. That brings back memories.

Off topic. But damn son.

Atf is good for freeing up bores too, has the detergents in it for that, wont evaporate etc. As for if its a bottom end issue,try turnign over via crank bolts? if these slack then it might be in the pistong rings. if theres none its in the crank.

By running a bearing. that will get the oil hot very fucking quick and zero change to coolant temp. I will say that i work on truck motors and not smaller vehicle so it might be different. But in my experience is if the oil temp raised so quick it didnt get to the cooling system, thats bearings , they aint part of the cooling system and thus the oil will hold ALL of the heat. Yeah there are oil coolers but if you watch coolant vs oil temps while running up you can see how lagging/ disconnected they can be. Not a wail, but my experience. tear me apart if you will.

Been repeated heaps, but yeah dont let them go dead. most chargers now days are like 10 amp most which just wont wake a slumbring beast, they probably cut out/ cut the amps because they think it has a dead cell which if fed like that will cause boiling ( both charging and in the vehicle) The batts in the trucks here last like 2 months tops in summer if they go onto the gravel due to heat and vibration. Dont be mad if you have to replace them every 3 years tbh. couple hundy over thet term isnt that bad.

kits can be spendy though**

Helicoil. Keep the same size and gain the benefits of stainless thread instead of alloy, and if it shits itself, well just grab it by the end and zoom it out.

Right , ive run across a good video on how to set it up. however, any experience on using it will be awesome.

Right, so have rebuilt a few d16 engines and have had no issues. usually we get the crank inspected by an outworker and is measured etc. i usually mic the thing myself to note the values for peace of mind. however, ive been using plastigage to note the bearing clearance and the GM is not happy with it. he wants full measurement done , which is cool and i can understand that. IN the past ive used the t style pieces where you push in, put in place. hit the btton they shoot out and you mic that. I dont have those here, but do have a dial bore gauge. have had a look at a few tutorials but im not picking it up and its making me feel fucking stupid. SO questions are: #1 can a dial bore gauge be used to measure big end and main bearings #2 How do i set this up. Mainly you have the gauge setup, and a set of anvils. say the the spec is 112.3mm or i have the bearings setup and i measure that to the same. do i grab a 112 anvil and .5 spacer? or is there a piece of paper missing from the case that tells me how to add the anvil to the setup. Any help appreciated as ive asked for the above mentioned gauge kit thing but get the feeling im meant to be able to do it with this.

Fuck EGR. The Euro's are going to hot EGR. will see how that goes ( so no cooler etc) Still, fuck EGR. Aftertreatment is a pain in the ass, but i can deal with it. because its after the engine. this bullshit that poisons the whole motor when it fails can burn in hell.

You can fill the cavities to help stop water sitting inside the hub. I wouldnt worry too much unless its making its way onto the brakes (if it has those) check it every now and then after a good run and see what happens, some grease have alot of oil in the soap and can let it out, others a super dry and wont bleed even after being cooked .

Got Pics? sweat is nothing i would be concerned about, a large amount of fluid would be though. how much have you packed into the bearings?

@Steelies @KKtrips, anyone else? yeah that's the plan at this stage, sweet man, sis might be able to help me out but otherwise yes please. Will let you know by mid day tomorrow?

Hey guys, my ride until the airport on Friday has made a faux pa and now I need to sort something in Welly, accom is sorted but wondering if anyone in Welly itself is heading to the meet and could give us a ride? Can chip in for gas etc.

I can make this!!! Sqweeee

Man that one in the background is a bit shgwag spec. Cool bike!

Go in on friday before a long weekend, if you're nice they might pile the shit in because it wont last the weekend. i paid $20 for like 10kg to cool things at hawkes boes one year. *note* if you do this , dont open the box it comes in if you have food and beer in the chilly bin , the beers will go from warm to frozen solid in about 15 mins.

Fitted chromally (sp?) flywheel to the 910 when the ca18det was in it , and it was great, but i didnt grab the super light one but was way,WAY lighter then factory and the only thing i noticed is you needed more pedal to take off because it would stall easier, thats it.

ATF, may very well not work under pressure but has worked fine for me.