shizzl

shit yeah...fuckin tin arse

looks pretty tidy dude.. drop in a 3.8 holden 6.. would be a nice wee cruiser

did they not come out with 14s? but im pretty damn sure the do, cos my stockcar had xf hubs and i had 14" rims on the front for a bit

i will name it trevor

i was told years ago the k50 is the cable operated version of the t50.. but possibly different input spline?? maybe weaker?? but shit loads cheaper to buy..and the 4age bolted up to it,ke70 dx driveshaft was used.. good deal,good bye

WOW!!! i actually learned something today

what a fucking score!!!!

how does the chassis tag decipher it being a SSS? im pretty sure its a genuine SSS.. ill need to remake all the mounts cos i just dont like them.. i dont like the i/c set up at all,the grille doesnt sit flush in its original position. need a driveshaft seat rails seats rear seat back (i have a good base) dizzy cap not sure what else at this stage... i wont sell the rims, ive got $4500 on them on trademe,so they shouldnt sell..

was this a club day?

check the body roll...whoa!! thats a new kind of bonnet venting or what driving round with ya bonnet open

had a play round this arvo (couldnt help myself) and played with the surge tank set up.. it came with a 5.5-9psi pump so i guess thatll be the lift pump to the surge tank. theres braided line from the tank to the pump,pump to surgey,tank to surgey overflow, return line to surgey, just need some more braided line for the engine bay. theyv allready run new fuel pipe under the car,to and from..bonus. the main battery cable to the starter is run also, i just need to mount the battery box and get a battery.and do an earth lead. i also need to get a external efi pump.. fitted the fuel rail and fuel reg back onto the manifold and injectors, just need a heap of hose clamps for the fuel lines there. then refit the manifold with sealent, but that can wait till i get the dizzy sorted cos its under the manifold. ill take it into work this week and do the exhaust on it, costs me nothing in labour and i get the tubing at cost price..pitty i finish working there next week. once thats all done ill look at wiring in the link i wont run the front mount cos it wont allow for a big enough radiator i dont think. a vr4 front mount may be a better fit though. need to sift through the parts for a clutch slave and fit that up. a accelerator cable needs to be sourced to make it work... and lastly a driveshaft, i dont have one...and i might remake some of the mounts in it.... yes a fair bit of work.....cant wait to lay lines..

plan? well its missing a driveshaft,exhaust,seats,radiator,plates... was thinking of selling the fj and dropping in a 13b or maybe even reverting back to a L20.. the FJ is mounted but not very well IMHO,doubt it would pass a cert. im not a fan of the front mount..so may run it like the factory piping.. the link is all there it just needs to be wired up, fuel lines are there just need to be hooked up. i really want it on the rd, but its deregd, keen for plates cos revinning process eats arse. the FR17s have grown on me tbh, i think theyr frigging mean... i really do need to offload alot of those parts...asap

RIghto, so yesterday my stockcar was traded for a 72 datsun 1600 SSS.. the guy i got it off said there were quite a few parts with it.. A FEW!!!! is a friggin understatement... :owned: atleast i can sell off the bits i dont need/want and recover some $$$ i spent on the stockcar,which was in excess of $12K... the body is immacco,one little rust hole in the left rear door frame, but ill get that done by a panel beater...do this one properly i think.. its got a FJ20et bolted in with 5speed box..theres a link ecu and associated bits in a box with new plug leads.. it rolls on brand new/unused ever! FR17 simmons with new tyres. i doubt the suspension is lowered,well the front isnt anywhere near lowered,brakes are stock. theres a front mount i/c but ive noticed the front panel has been cut to accommodate it :baseballbat: GGGRRRRR, but there is a mint replacement, so i may look at binning the i/c.. the roof lining is mint and white,one small cut in the bottom of the left rear at the bottom of the pillar,meh..the dash is complete,but has one crack above the speedo..theres carbon faced autometer gauges in it where the stock gauges were,the stock gauges are in with the parts... the boot was full of bits, mainly tail lights,headlight buckets,indicators, wiring, 2 looms, a dash thats been recovered in blue, a battery box full of inner door handles, various trims,wiper arms,indicator stalks, a early gauge set(68-69??),another one aswell some pillar vent thing-non SSS,bumpers and number plate light things.brake and clutch master cyls,cowl/wiper vents,some i/c piping, a stock fj20et dump pipe and a custom one,some large radius exhaust bends,surge tank,fuel pump,braided line,battery cable,some odd seats from i dont know what, a datsun seat base... i cant believe how good the doors open and close for an old car like this... heres some pics.. if you can see a part you need let me know and ill check its quality... theres also a HT18 turbo in a box too...rx7 maybe?? also some starters and alts,and a exhaust manifold,theres another starter thats different to the others which i hope is a fj20 starter.. so many parts it makes me sick.... :puke: I was quite surprised to find a perma seal pack in the car, opened it up and there was a complete gasket set,even a head gasket, score :Jelly: there are a few thing i need, a dizzy cap, parcel tray, and a center console( if these had them). bonnet catch-unless i find it in the bits..

should be the same as bolting in a pinto? although wider head/manifold set up...??

dont crash

thats a good start.. my boss has a mk2 escort sport with massive amounts of race history but has never had a cage...

no it does not have to be expensive.... just get a car, join a club,get a motorsport nz manual, pay ya licence etc, race gear and go racing... there are classes where you dont need a cage. do bent sprints etc....build it slowly as you up skill...

i saw a bluebird on trademe at the moment with a ca18det in it for like $2500, needs finishing. could be a good way to fast track some of the crapping round. plus the ca's are good as engines too.

my n/a mazda is stock 8:5 comp ratio, hmmm turbo time i think then..

head over to here mate.... have a wee looksy.. http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/index.php you dont want a time bomb of an engine, a stock motor will do the trick for an all rounder. write a list of what you want to do to it seats cage belts suspension brakes engine exhaust fuel system cert msnz authority card club membership motorsport licence write these down on paper and put next to it the amount you can budget for on each, then you will get your total figure, ask round and get quotes for the parts etc, allow a bit extra on top of each figure... then number them 1- whatever in order of preference/must have first etc.. then you can work out what you can do to it as you can afford it. then get yourself a 1B4 notebook and make a plan, allow a few pages for each item ie engine, the write down what you plan to do, stock/modded, draw diagrams if you need to, keep adding info if think of something.. once youve got some kind of plan you can start your project...the plan and book will help having to undo previous work cos you wouldve decided what you want to do and just get in and do it.. when i built my stockcar i filled a 1B4 with info,plans and diagrams,they all worked out and i came in on budget, well pretty close, theres always expenses like hose clamps,cable ties,fluids etc... well thats my advice, take it or leave it,just thought id share

what year is it? i think we may have a set on the rack at work..

you referring to the choke butterflies?

totally.. most are bolted to one of the bellhousing bolts. an easy model: get a saddle clamp (exhaust clamp) and put it on the front pipe roughly next to the bellhousing(dont tighten the clamp all the way up yet). take a bit of flat bar 25-40mm wide and 5-8mm thick and however long youll need it. drill a hole in one end big enough for a bellhousing bolt to go through. measure how far away from the bellhousing the saddle clamp is and make a right angle bend so the flat bar sits against the saddle clamp base when its bolted to the bellhousing. then weld the flat bar to the saddle clamp base. i can take some pics of one and put them up tomorrow if you like.. i have 3 hilux's booked in for exhaust jobs tomorrow...most popular for repairs these things but they do usually have good clamps/brackets... lastly tighten the saddle clamp bolts(do this last)... done

your lucky...any real damage will be easily noted we have an evo3 engine at work at the moment,done the exact same thing.. his last motor wasnt so lucky,bent the lot and cracked the block... best not to run them upside down resting on the bonnet ae