Carsnz123

Isn't there a formula for working out the curve of a velocity stack bellmouth? similar to that of how they work out sizing of trombones and of the like.

The quality of Fenix was obviously better then. They're shit now. Stay faaaaaarrrrrrrr away from them. Will fail in less than 6 months.

Hey @cletus, this is the cert tag on a 180sx at a dealer. Would the fact that the the model hasn’t been inputted incorrectly be an issue? Resulting in you being reasonable in requesting it be fixed if you were a prospective buyer?

Fuck really??? what sort of hourly rate are they charging? Pretty sure i was quoted less than that to blast an entire cedric shell after I'd steam cleaned it.

Would pay to get a quote for sandblast. Make sure its a company familiar with doing cars. Youll get 20 min into it with the wire wheel and realise its a massive ball ache.

Hasn’t been one one yet. That’s the goal following TRDs bible. Need to go see damo with some money for new carbs. Nothing wrong with 20 year olds

I'm sure @RUNAMUCK will pipe up soon with supercharger sharns and that the A series is the greatest engine second only to the Chrysler Hemi. You might also want to take driveability int to consideration too. I've spent $4k so far to make a toyota 3K push 150hp because I'm silly. Could easily do that with a 20V 4age for the same money, it would make power below 5000rpm, and probably last longer before needing an overhaul.

Can I get a TLDR version of the last few posts @sr2 and @mjrstar

The Bloke at Under Car services on blenheim road has the most amazing stock of odd ball NOS master cylinders. I think the one i got for my cedric has made its way onto one of karls cars

Any you'll also notice that the drift guys with well built cars have a dirty great vent closer to the front of the bonnet.

I suspect an awesome injector rebuild will do it a world of good @brocky41 but it’s running currently so it will probably happen when it decide to run on less than 6 cylinder again. It’s a weird piece of crap that I can’t quite bring myself to make an honest effort to sell. That being said if I got made an offer I couldn’t refuse... well yeah.

Bit of productivity has happened while being off work Chainsawed my way into the woods to get bits from the parts car. And retrieved some upgrade parts. Then went on a spanner hunt Now the car has power steering. Was a massive ass to park and drive at slow speed. Best part is no leaks or whiny pump. Had to get creative with the tensioner as the belt i had was a touch too long. Ill get a new belt and change the tensioner when things are open again. For some fucked up reason it Didn't want to start when I went to test it. Even after swapping to a better charged battery. fired a bit of brake clean in the intake in lue of engine start. It finally caught with some horrific knocking noises but then purred. I know the starter is getting tired so my guess is Its drawing so much current that the voltage going to the cutoff solenoid is too low and its killing the fuel. Another thing to fix. Also loosely fitted a china click clack fuel pump to help the built in lift pump. The factory diesel cars use 5/16 hard line to the tank. This being originally 1.8 petrol only has 1/4. It seams to starve of fuel under full load. Problem goes away with extra pumpage. When I can buy things I think ill make a 3/8 hard line for future-proofing. Oh and I got some new wheels. Well I got them a year ago but have only just gotten around to getting tyres fitted. And Yes I attacked the decals with a caramel wheel because they were falling off and looking even worse. Will tidy up the paint and add new pinstripes along the body line. That pretty well brings things up to date. See you in another 18 months.

The rear shocks failed a wof which was a massive ass seeing as the rear shocks are NLA and I needed them to be shorter with the slight lowering of the car. Ended up getting Vanette shocks and had a friend tig the top eyes of the old shocks onto the new ones. Also bought some lush mustard colored wool carpet and fitted out the rear with new carpet to reduce some road noise. I took it for a trip to Blenheim and back with a trailer on and wondered why the fuck it was so slow (even more than normal) turned out the front hoses were holding pressure in the brakes and causing them to drag. New set of hoses mostly solved the issue but Id say the pistons are a little sticky in the seals. I've pretty well replaced all the coolant hoses now. the first time it dumped it coolant I'd just gotten home. second time it let go just as I left home and I didn't notice until 10 min later when the tmp gauge pegged at full. I've done other things but can't remember/dont have pics. Here are some tow mission pics Skyline to the rescue when the fuel pump failed. Load was probably more than what the car weighed This was a tad iffy in the wet Using works resources to fix the Crown Then using the Skyline's weight to help run the new engine in Off to surgery

So I still have this and quietly work away at it from time to time. During the Hanmer trip in 2018 it missfired quite a lot and was really only running on 4-5 cylinders (sometimes 6 but rarely). The Injector pump packed up fully a week later. I sent the IP away to get rebuilt and got it back a few days before Christmas 2018 along with a new timing belt and tensioner. The seals in the IP were old, hard, and not working like they used to. Also spent time painting the door frames, Fitting a 3.7:1 diff, removing rust, and resealing the Jurassic Park windows. like usual I was a bit lazy with the pics.

Yes they are an F series (or interchangeable enough) The A on the end means they are open. B would indicate a torsion LSD. A03A is 4.1:1 A04A is 4.3:1 If you want LSD go flogg it out of an altezza. most of the manual 4 cylinder cars have a torsion unit in them. According to wheel side data yes the townace is 4x114.3

I apply this to many aspects of my life and it hasn't worked in my favor very often

I'm doing a similar swap into my GS126V except both engines are AFM rather than MAP. The conclusion I came too is that the single cam cars run a different body loom to the twin cam cars. I've resigned myself to the fact that it will require some cutting and splicing of looms to get power where it needs to go there is only a handful of wires that need either constant or switched power. All be it I haven't touched the car for a couple years. Too many projects. This has some useful info if you haven't seen it already https://bluetwentyeight.wordpress.com/tech-docs/

http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/A40.pdf took a bit of finding but this is a manual i came across a while ago. The bloody MS112's trans is playing up so may have to delve into it at some stage.

Additional Barry fact: the center throttle layout was mainly due to a lack of space between the brake pedal and side of the body. Many left hook variants of the American cars we saw here in the 10s and 20s were conventional layout (clutch-brake-throttle). Also be careful if you have to hone or bore the engine. I think these the deck surface is off square to the bores by 7 degrees. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure its the 7 they did some sillyness on.

The basic formula is: L20ET manifold TD03 turbo 10 psi wind fuel up The L20ET manifold requires slotting of holes and a bit of port matching. The L28ET manifold doesn't without hogging a shit load of metal out of the head. No.6 does get hot with a turbo so an intercooler and clearing out your coolant passages would be a good idea. 10 psi is a safe level of boost and will give you more kick, decent fuel economy, and only reduce your engine life a bit. The fuel screw on your pump will need adjusting for more fuel but it will smoke like a train off boost. I have heard of people running 20psi but not sure how long engine lasted. We've had a shit load of fun with @- i5oogt -'s LD28T Cedric but due to a crap cooling system its been overheated 1 too many times and the engine is a bit sick. So keep it at a normal operating temp and EGT below 650c and you should be sweet. But just remember you will shorten your engine life.

What side of CHCH are you on? I could come have a look after work one evening if you want.

Has "Invite only" show to keep it classy Invites Ford Model As? Bloody barrys

Actually got it running on it's carb tonight. 3.5 cylinders but close enough.

Finally got a spare moment to get pics on the interwebs Whats disappeared is the front structure on the right side for the suspension mounts and engine And holes where they shouldn't be. There is lots of rusty parts on the lower section but most of the stuff above the sills is pretty sound.

That KE36 rear wasn't very watertight off the top of my head. And being so low and having no suspension it was a bit of a shit to tow according @76rolla_gurl. Looked cool. Not sure where it is as both car and trailer have been sold.