Carsnz123

Reminds me of the diesel Bentley Bentayga we had in the workshop. Fire it up and it has the typical diesel nunga nunga nunga. Also has a horrible smell of adblue while it's running.

What counts as modern? Dads 1980 Crown has had the cat removed and I'm going to do the same to the '87 crown wagon as the fucker is leaking. Old style cats were basically ceramic pellets coated in catalyst (platnium and something else I can't remember) that were housed in a stainless cage. These would block up very easily and created huge back pressure. Hence why it was common to ditch them. Modern monolith cats use a metal mesh coated in catalyst. They don't block up much and have negligible back pressure. I think they did the changeover in the '90s some time.

Bring some samples to hammer Bart. Might be keen on some for purposes

It's a common issue with carby bikes @Nick Ritchie. My rebel won't idle unless its Been running for a good 10 min and it's lack of a functional choke doesn't help. You have to remember you have a 250 trying to warm up a decent chunk of alloy and steel plus a few litres of oil. It seems odd that full choke kills it. Does the choke not operate a fast idle as well?

Shit a MS111 now that's rare. As far as I'm aware the only reason they exist is to use up the last of the 4m engines.

I was under that impression too but Steve Rhodes said it's a good idea to put them on as the new engine is straining the driveshaft more.

@cletus my man. I'm taking my dads MS112 for a cert for the engine swap. 5m been swapped for 7m so ~30% more power and +200cc. Other than that it's stock. It's getting driveshaft hoops and a shroud for the fan tomorrow. Anything else I should look at?

Ive got a bigish jack i can bring along.

either day works for me.

Id probably invest in some medium strength Loctite for the seat belt bolts. Had one come loose in my car from general vibration even after being torqued up. Ill have a decent range of tools from turning things and levering things to hitting things and electrical stuff. Pretty much emptying my toolbox from work into the car as I need to work on my own crap on Sunday.

Great to see another one of these being saved. What model is it? MS112?

that will probably be helpful. Spending hours driving round christchurch looking for a bunch of fools looking puzzled at a broken british car might take a while.

Yeah, I could come and lend some supervision for angle box issues.

Are high tensile bolts acceptable for spring shackle pins? something like 8.8 or 12.8.

I want to throw money at my Chrysler so this lot is up for sale.

pretty sure there is a 1275 lump at the VCC parts shed at mcleans island.

https://bluetwentyeight.wordpress.com/tech-docs/ No FE stuff but might be helpful

WOF time and one problem I hadn't fixed is the gauge light didn't work. Upon spending an hour removing the gauge cluster I was reminded some pratt had glued the gauge lights in with RTV. So the fix was to reinstate the original poverty spec gauge cluster and repair it with parts from the diesel one. I realized that of the wires that were cooked only 2 needed connecting up. A few hours work and I had my MPH gauge cluster with functional illumination installed in the car. Leaving mums place the first bump I went over the speedo light went out... bugger. The second bump set off lights and sirens in the car. turns out the oil pressure sender wire came off and grounded on the engine making the car think there was no oil pressure. The car got a wof and is now ready for another 6 months of driving and breaking down.

I should have the 1929 Plymouth wofed by then. It only cruises at 70 so if anyone wants a really leisurely trip follow me. I might have a couple spare seats too.

Safety @cletus and @chris r need a little context with their harsh reviews of drum brakes. They are bloody good at bringing a moving mass to a grinding halt because of their large surface area. But suck at dissipating the resulting heat that builds up due to science. You'll find in a car with non-boosted brakes drums are better.... well for the first stop or two.

@Rookie The good news I was pretty good at physics in highschool. If you have any books/web sites that would help me I'm all ears. Mega Manual has a lot of good info.

The sad fact is you'll need to pull the engine down later because there will be a small rust groove in the bores causing compression loss and oil burning. If it goes well and you don't give two shits about oil consumption you'll be fine.

Well well, another 1G fan. What car is it in? Look through this lot. I'm using it to help with the 1GGE in my GS126V. https://bluetwentyeight.wordpress.com/tech-docs/

So what's the go for registering vintage speedsters/hot rods? my '25 Chrysler is going to use the original chassis, front half of the body, front axle, suspension, and wheels. The rest is custom. 230ci flathead 6 from a 50s dodge and 3 speed trans to suit, boat tail end on the body, and probably upgraded brakes as the external band ones are shit in the wet. At what point does it go from being able to be registered as a 1925 Chrysler 70 to a Scratch built car?

I hate to drag you all away from your conversation about surge tanks and heatsoaking but is there anyone in Christchurch who I can talk to about converting my bike to EFI using a Megasquirt ECU. The main goal it to be able to turbo it some time down the track all on a shoestring budget with parts from questionable sources and negligible reliability.