JustHarry

@fletch We buy electric fuel pumps from pan Pacific here in chch . Trade only so.... 80$ ish and thyre quiet as fuck and so far we haven't had any issues with them yet @- i5oogt -s green Cedric has on in it

Looks like a sweet project. Harry didnt sting ya to bad ? I work with dyl orpwood, harrys youngest and have bought bits from them in the past. Orpwoods tend to command top dollar on vehicles. But the do seem to find the gems hidden away

Drift cars prob go slow enough there isnt a high pressure area at the base of the screen. At the low speed they realistically operate at its unlik6to be an issue. At "100kms" cruising speed you dont want air being pushed into the engine bay and airflow through the rad being slowed. AnD overheating

Mainly a top speed racing thing that's tilted down to street cars like most stuff has. At mega speed a normal scoop is a massive drag. A reverse cowl like that is aerodynamic and gives good airflow to the engine via the high pressure area at the base of the screen

Those are for air intake purposes. Like a scoop but much cooler . And for functio are plumbed into the airclearr the way a normal scoop is

A workmate has a supercharged fist 128 running toyota 4agze ecu wiring and sensors. Makes sense if you can find a good factory system on an engine of close size and power.

If it's too high take the springs back to were you got them done and argue they been curved too far?

As it sits in the photo Is that the height you want it? Or is it still to high

Did you have them reset for more lift? Can you not get them to pop round to the correct position Looks like the springs are to short now. Longer springs with less curve would achieve the same result

Think my 20 mm air one was 250 and the 10mm was 180

I find Roloc Sanders are also a lot better for finishing and getting that sweet "ground" finish the pros leave.......

The flex-o-vite belts from bunnings are also pretty bad. They tend to break at the seam long before thyre worn out of grit

I know they're spendy but 3m belts last like 10000000 times longer than the cheapies so are worth it

Air tools ftw....if you have a compressor to run them. For work I've got a 3m 10mm belt Sander and a 20mm jobby from r a Johnson. Think its car tool or some brand like that. Both get used almost daily. Both are decent tools. Important to oil everyday and they last really well. Air tools are always less bulky. Edit. I have the big one. We also have the 10mm one as a workshop tool. They get abused pretty hard and they last a couple years http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/1110-belt-sander-10-x-328mm/category/308-sanders http://www.raj.co.nz/product-group/1111-belt-sander-20-x-520mm/category/308-sanders

Wouldn't putting a vent in the back of the bonnet actually push air into the engine bay? Since there is a high pressure area in front of the screen. That's why even when you heater fan isn't going, at speed, air still comes out if the vents

Would a mk2 Sierra be the right length or are they all the same? @Esky_addict

Yeah runs are just part of painting. We call the paint depth indicators at work, they're so you know you've got enough paint on

Dunno if I'd point a big heater directly at a painted panel..... risk getting it too hot. Giving it plenty of time in the sun will be more than enough. Total credit where credit it due. Looks awesome . Hope the metallic went on alright. Can often be a trick to get dark metallics on without them going patchy / mottley I know I've redone my share of bonnets and boots because the metallic looked like shit. It is 100% reward when it all turns out good though. Look forward to seeing it at some monthly meets

Also since you've done it in your garage theres no bake cycle ..... So the more sunlight you can give it in the next week or so the better. All 2 pack paints clear included need to get up to a pretty high temp like 50 degrease (not totally sure with out looking at data sheets) before they will cure properly. Time is not good enough. So leave it in the sun for as long and as often as you can. Also what color is that? Looks fucking amazing

What I do is cut the top off a run before I sand it. I do this with a razor blade with some masking tape folded over the ends so you dont have a corner to dig into the clear. And with the blade just lent slightly forward scrape the run . This is time consuming... but it stops you sanding the clear around the run and having low spots or worse rub through around the run . Then you have to repaint and do blends and with a metallic like that will suck big time. One the run is all but scraped off . I'll use a hard rubber block and 1500 and sand it till it's nice and flat and any Mark's from the razor blade are gone. 2000 over top of that or 3000 on a da sander. You can buff 1500 but it's much nicer and quicker to buff 2000/3000 I'm sure as you've already found out no part of this is "quick and easy". If your patient and take your time the results show

Awsome. Prob cant really "draw" them up die to lack of drawing abilities. But if I were to just make something tacked into place for mockup purposes I guess that'll be ok? That way should I need to change anything it's not a big deal? Seeing as the steering box virtually it right on the firewall on the ms65 crown there isn't really anything to jam on . But I guess the centre link will be the other issue.

The longer you leave it the better at this point. They clear will still be quite soft in the run. I'd be leaving it at least a week before touching it otherwise it just ends up making a bigger problem .

@cletus what's the go regarding engine conversion mounts. And gearbox bell housing adapters? Will be putting a rover v8 into my ms65 and will be using the bw35 lehousing with an aluminum adapter plate to the Toyota w50 box And engine mounts will use the rover rubber mounts and just make some thing on the crossmember out of 3mm? To fit the engine? I'll be keeping the stock gearbox mount and crossmember so I dont have to customize the driveshaft and also keep the shifter in the correct position. Are the engine mounts something that I can just make to suit? Or do they need to be "designed" The lvvta website just says they "must to be fit for purpose " ? Could you please clarify this for me

How bads the clear? Have you just got some big cliff hangers? Or are there dry areas aswell. At least runs/cliffhangers can be scraped off and flat and buffed back. Time consuming but do able

Not a fan?