dmulally

Managed to take off the old water pump of the EA71. Three bolts snapped. Check out the crap inside. Yikes.

@yoeddynz when you could be bothered, are you able to show me the engine mount setup you have for the datto pls? My one is reasonably clever and uses the original mounting point but I know the LVV cert man won't like it being angle iron and not boxed.

Anybody got any hot tips for rebuilding starters? I sandpapered the round copper looking thing and the three things that go around it but nada. It pushes out but doesnt rotate. If I rotate by hand it is very stiff.

This thing is yuck. I might give it a scrub first and then take a peak under the valve covers. The breather pipes are missing so looks like a lot of condensation/rust could have snuck into it. Soon find out!

Thanks. I'll send you some pics of what it looks like. It looks pretty cruddy though so I might give it a good clean first and see if that's all it takes. Also trying to sort shipping on these: Seller is making it tricky to know a price however. Look at the questions: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing/4289059341

So I got the engine freed up but the starter motor is frozen. Even tried hitting it with a hammer but nada. I might just drop the engine and try to start it on the floor as it's a pain trying to get to things in there.

Yeah furry muff. I suppose I could change it if it starts getting too warm.

The front one is a modern alloy radiator. I could weld it shut but not sure I want to go down that one way street. The 18psi is to keep it closed off. Rear ones look 80's or 90's. Front and rear will be on different circuits (front off the heater lines with an EWP in line) and rear two will be split and on the subie water pump circuit. So all with the same water but going down different paths.

Came with a pretty sweet split radiator setup in the rear. Anybody know if it will be a problem having a filler neck/cap both front and rear? Thinking for the front putting on an 18psi cap and 13psi on the rear with an expansion bottle off that one.

To the left of the plate is hillman and subie to the right. Going to be a right pain when it breaks as it will all need to be swapped over rather than punted into the creek like every other rooted imp box.

The angle iron engine mount is pretty sweet too. I love that sort of one off engineering. Looking forward to seeing if it actually drives.

Now then. I dragged this home so I might get it running in situ so I can see how it runs with a standard box. The fuel is varnish and the shifter is seized but it's all good because the engine is seized too. @Adoom and @cubastreet just felt a cold chill go down their spine.

From my fading memory the band on the diode should be on the alternator end. It's why I use a boring old one wire alternator these days and an altmeter. Bulletproof and simple.

Every dickhead is doing a subie swap now

So this followed me home on the weekend very slowly. Also came with another Hillman Imp with an EA71 installed in it. I'll drag that home in a few weeks and see as both are dead reg, I'll swap the Subie gear into the yellow Imp. If anybody wants a mint body/interior Imp with no engine sing out. It'll be cheep.

Ok hear me out...

So some big decisions are coming up soon for the Imp. I presently have the EA81 off being rebuilt and am working on the front radiator mounts/ducting. I got a call out of the blue about two Imps for sale along with a shed load of parts. One is an Imp van with the windows (a husky) and the other is a basic bitch Imp with a subaru conversion already done! From what I can tell without pics it has an EA71 and a stock gearbox. It has been certed and the rego on hold. The van is dead rego. All allegedly. I have ALWAYS wanted an Imp van and with my quest to get down to 3 cars in 5 years (67 Econoline camper van and 66 C20 ute the other two hence me trying to flog the rest now) I'll definitely be keeping an Imp as a forever car. The van could be a good candidate for an EV conversion with all the space in the back but I dont even know if I'll get around to doing an EV as my cert guy wasnt keen.

You must think my shed roof has a leak if you're concerned about it seeing daylight in the next 10 years.

If only you were as right as you are pretty. Allow me to show you my working out.

Here is something somebody else prepared earlier.

This is the grill that came with it. Looks like shit to me but would be perfect for a front rad. Lucky I gave it away. Can anybody think of any ideas of what I can put on that is subtle? I'm thinking five 2" holes punched inwards with some mesh behind it.

That could be a goer! I wont be seam welding it (ie: blowing holes in 0.8) so it would work. I'll send you a flirty PM

So the new radiator arrived and it looks pretty schmick. It is a bit thinner than I thought it would be but that's not the end of the world. I havent decided if I'm putting a heater in it yet or not so have some Y fittings with individual taps the same size as the original heater lines off the manifold. So I could run it to an auxiliary radiator in the back in summer and a heater in winter. Or just the aux rad. See how I feel. Future winter me will be pissed off if I don't put in a heater box inside. I was going to just use the bottom fresh air vent box hole thingy for the radiator but half of it will get nothing. So I might punch a couple of 2" holes where the badge used to sit above the bumper bar to get more airflow in. I might sleep on that one. The bonnet is punched full of louvres so that should get the air out. I have to purchase some sheetmetal anyway so might look at some ducting and a mini scoop where the number plate is to help direct airflow into it. Here are some before and during pics. The rad is off to starboard as the fuel filler hose is in the way.